John..

What is the best assembly lube to use for the mains, rods, and rings upun rebuilding?

I have a small bottle of green Federal Mogul I used to hold the valve spring spacers in place, but I'm sure there is much better stuff available out there. I may use this green stuff on the back sides of the bearings to hold them in place, but I want something really good for the front faces of the bearings.

Erik - Denmark

John,
Why not just use the same oil as you will fill into the engine - No need for mixing with some 'magic' stuff

John..

Perhaps that is best, but I have heard there are very good synthetic assembly lubricants that are thicker for startup purposes.

LT Texan

moly lube for bearings. never heard of lubing the "back" of bearings. A little on the nut and washer face will give you better torque readings

I hear WD40 on the rings is the best way to go.

tresamore

Hi guys,
I'm about to start my reassembly also. This is about my 4th engine rebuild (1st Porsche). I have always used Red Line assembly lube and never had a problem. If you go to the link below and type RED-80312 under the Summit part number search you'll see it. Its about $7. The reason not to use motor oil is that it doesn't "cling" to the surfaces as well, which is okay for the second or so when you start up everyday, but fresh starts have alot more friction, initial wearing and seating of components. Most engine wear occurs during the starting before the oil gets distributed. Hope your build goes well!!<a href="http://www.summitracing.com/" target="_blank">Summit</a>

tresamore

I forgot to put this on the other post <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" /> . DON'T put anything on the back of the bearings!! Just the front part that contacts the crank should get the assembly lube. The backs should be dry and as clean as an operating room. I always use a little brake clean and lint free cloths to clean the bearings, rods & block. Anything (even oil) on the back of the bearings can lift the bearing off the rod or main and potentially allow it to spin or burn. The friction of the bearing shell in the rod and main should hold it in place. As far as the rings, I would dip them in motor oil (non synthetic), let em drain for a few seconds, align the rings, put on the ring compressor and slide em in, but these were not on exotic alloy cylinder walls. Best do some more research on that.

BrianG

Also, most torque values ar given for clean DRY threads......

John..

Good info here. I never thought too much about the bearings, but I guess that is good advice. They should hold on under their own tension.

My block will be Nikasil, so the exotic metal is out the window. I was thinking some good motor oil there on the rings...lots of it. I'll use the redline for the bearings, as I have heard some good stuff about it.

BTW, tresamore, where do you live in NH? I grew up in Amherst, went to MASH class of 89

tresamore

Go easy on the ring oil John, too much and they won't seal properly, they'll float on the oil trapped between them. I'd look into the Nikasil/ring break in, its a big deal to break in rings properly, if you don't, your gonna have a low compression smoker. Use the redline on the cams too and anything that will be dry on the initial start, even if its the original part reinstalled. I've lived in Salem 11 yrs and grew up in Wakefield MA, a graduate of NMRVHS 84. Good ole Amherst, my favorite town on the last Sunday of each month. Big car flea market there during March-October (No shark stuff though).