%$#$@#%@&$@#$ Bolt
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Cobey:
<strong>That is the "Easy out" kit, correct?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I beleive so, but it ain't so easy (PIA)
<strong>That is the "Easy out" kit, correct?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I beleive so, but it ain't so easy (PIA)
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Thanks. Off to see what I can do with it. I fear I may have to take the dremel to it to shear off the section messed up with last night's attempts. We'll see.
Again, thanks all!
Again, thanks all!
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From: Gilbert, AZ
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by DG84S:
<strong>Sorry for the screw-up
<a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/" target="_blank">http://www.mcmaster.com/</a></strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yo DG -
I don't think they have enough items to choose from ? My word, it'll take a whole day just to go through that index!
<strong>Sorry for the screw-up
<a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/" target="_blank">http://www.mcmaster.com/</a></strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yo DG -
I don't think they have enough items to choose from ? My word, it'll take a whole day just to go through that index!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,051
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Hi Cobey,
Bolt Extraction:
PB'laster is supposed to be about the best penetrating oil. Spray with that.
Tap the bolt with a punch and hammer to loosen it. It might be loose enough then to turn with the needle nose vice grips.
You may be able to cut a slot through the center, with a dremmel tool, and use a screwdriver there.
Another approach is to grind flats on the sides, and use vice grips to turn it.
You can drill a center hole, and use a screw extractor. You need a good tap handle to really grip a screw extractor. Use a titanium drill bit of the size specified for the screw extractor. Get a center punch that just fits the hole in the thermostat housing. Reattach the housing so you can use the hole where the broken bolt is to locate your center punch. Be very careful not to break a drill bit or extractor off in the bolt. If the screw extractor fails, you still have a centered pilot hole for drilling out the bolt.
When drilling out a bolt, you may want to periodically try the screw extractor. It might become loose before you bugger-up the threads.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Bolt Extraction:
PB'laster is supposed to be about the best penetrating oil. Spray with that.
Tap the bolt with a punch and hammer to loosen it. It might be loose enough then to turn with the needle nose vice grips.
You may be able to cut a slot through the center, with a dremmel tool, and use a screwdriver there.
Another approach is to grind flats on the sides, and use vice grips to turn it.
You can drill a center hole, and use a screw extractor. You need a good tap handle to really grip a screw extractor. Use a titanium drill bit of the size specified for the screw extractor. Get a center punch that just fits the hole in the thermostat housing. Reattach the housing so you can use the hole where the broken bolt is to locate your center punch. Be very careful not to break a drill bit or extractor off in the bolt. If the screw extractor fails, you still have a centered pilot hole for drilling out the bolt.
When drilling out a bolt, you may want to periodically try the screw extractor. It might become loose before you bugger-up the threads.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
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Well, it looks like I am going to have to drill that puppy out. The extractor was gripping, but no matter how much pressure was applied, the bolt wouldn't budge. And now, the extractor will not grip any more. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />
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No, it doesn't go into the the area where the coolant is, and to make sure nothing got into the housing, I stuffed up the hole while I worked in the area.
Hmmm. Left handed dril bit. Have to see if Home Depot has them in stock.
Speaking of, obviously I need to get a new bolt. Two actually since I might as well replace both at the same time. Is there a big difference in plain steel vs. zinc coated steel?
Hmmm. Left handed dril bit. Have to see if Home Depot has them in stock.
Speaking of, obviously I need to get a new bolt. Two actually since I might as well replace both at the same time. Is there a big difference in plain steel vs. zinc coated steel?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2001
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Cobey,
If removing the housing gives you better access to the bolt shaft, it may be worth it now. If you can get a bite on the side of the shaft with a normal or wide set of vice grips, that may do it. If not, grind or file flats on the side of the shaft.
Glad to hear you were looking out for shavings already.
Sorry that I don’t know about ratings of materials. Hardness and brittleness would be factors to consider. Torque and heat in this case should permit the use of most any reputable bolt.
The copper colored anti-seize is available from Advance Auto Parts. I think it is available from Permatex. It is best for steel to aluminum applications. Something about electrolytic problems with aluminum anti-seize to aluminum surface.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
If removing the housing gives you better access to the bolt shaft, it may be worth it now. If you can get a bite on the side of the shaft with a normal or wide set of vice grips, that may do it. If not, grind or file flats on the side of the shaft.
Glad to hear you were looking out for shavings already.
Sorry that I don’t know about ratings of materials. Hardness and brittleness would be factors to consider. Torque and heat in this case should permit the use of most any reputable bolt.
The copper colored anti-seize is available from Advance Auto Parts. I think it is available from Permatex. It is best for steel to aluminum applications. Something about electrolytic problems with aluminum anti-seize to aluminum surface.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 1
Cobey,
Just in case you must drill, Greg Nichol's tips provide advice. See: <a href="http://www.nichols.nu/tip009.htm" target="_blank">http://www.nichols.nu/tip009.htm</a>
Engine
Broken Bolt Removal
I would start with a die grinder to get a flat or slightly indented end
on the bolt. then drill with a small drill, 1/8" or less. drill all the
way through its length if possible. Increase in size until only .050 to
.075 wall remains. then use heat and an easy out. If none of this works
the next step I have done is to keep drilling larger holes until you
expose the threads of the ID piece and try tapping. This only works if
you were good at centering the drill during the first drilling, but if
you are centered it is amazing how easily the remainder of the bolt
comes out with the tap. If you ruin it at this point there is still heli
coil or insert, or weld it up and drill and retap.
Mark Grasser
Just about five minutes ago I drilled out a broken exhaust stud on my Audi
5000S, and used a #3 Easy-Out to remove the piece. I used an ordinary
steel-drilling bit (as opposed to wood and plastic) which had already seen
quite a bit of use. Took a little less than a minute to drill about 3/4
inch into the stud. I've done this before on "hardened" steel, using a
carbide tipped bit, and it went real fast.
wk
For about $8.00-$10.00 you can get a solid carbide drill and drill the bolt and use an "easy-out" If it doesn't
work, you've only lost a few bucks. However, that's what I use to cut tool steel, Monel, Inconel, etc. I doubt that bolt is as hard as any of those. Worth a try. You can get the carbide drills at places like MSC <a href="http://www.mcsdirect.com" target="_blank">www.mcsdirect.com</a> J&L Industrial Supply <a href="http://www.jandlindustrial.com" target="_blank">www.jandlindustrial.com</a>
Happy Trails,
Dave Shaeffer
1985 S Auto (Blauhai)
If it's a hardened bolt, about the only thing you can do is get a hole sawcutting drill bit and cut out around the bolt. Use the smallest one that will allow you to get around the bolt. You will then need to get an insert from an industrial supply house and fit the insert into the hole. The insert will have to be drilled and tapped to recieve the new bolt. This should be done before insertion. Good luck.
Roy Vernik
King o'd' Doody heads
'94 928GTS 5 Speed
I have even drilled out hardened socket head cap screws and they are like 190,000psi yield material (tough). It is a matter of enough pressure at the drill bit tip. The correct hardened tool steel or exotic or coated metal can work great. The cream of the crop is high boron tool steel. Sometimes you have to use a grinder to make a flat spot and to dimple to get the drill point to start cutting but it can almost always be done. There are always tools harder than parts. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to make the parts. To get the pressure you need to cut you need to start with very small drill sizes so that you can generate the pressure needed to start it cutting. Then work your way up in very small size increments. Patience is a major virtue when doing this. The right cutting oil helps too. I have found that if you dip your drill bits in Mobil 1 before you start and then stop periodically during the cut to dip it again that the cut goes alot easier. Mobil 1 is amazing stuff. Try it anytime you are drilling in metal.
jk
I broke 2 water pump bolts off and broke easyouts off in both of them. Also broke a cam box bolt off in a 944 head. On all of them, I punched the center of the broken stud as best I could and then drilled them out with a Cobalt drill bit just undersize to the original bolt diameter. Was tedious but worked. Remember, the harder the metal, the slower the bit speed. Also, for another broken easyout (see a pattern?) I drilled it out with a broken bolt remover I got from Ace Hardware. The thing has a fluted/wide bit face and a screw down collar that threads over the bit. The screw down piece is slightly tapered and has wide thread pitch. I will have to go down to my garage to see the name of it. It went through the easyout like it was butter.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Just in case you must drill, Greg Nichol's tips provide advice. See: <a href="http://www.nichols.nu/tip009.htm" target="_blank">http://www.nichols.nu/tip009.htm</a>
Engine
Broken Bolt Removal
I would start with a die grinder to get a flat or slightly indented end
on the bolt. then drill with a small drill, 1/8" or less. drill all the
way through its length if possible. Increase in size until only .050 to
.075 wall remains. then use heat and an easy out. If none of this works
the next step I have done is to keep drilling larger holes until you
expose the threads of the ID piece and try tapping. This only works if
you were good at centering the drill during the first drilling, but if
you are centered it is amazing how easily the remainder of the bolt
comes out with the tap. If you ruin it at this point there is still heli
coil or insert, or weld it up and drill and retap.
Mark Grasser
Just about five minutes ago I drilled out a broken exhaust stud on my Audi
5000S, and used a #3 Easy-Out to remove the piece. I used an ordinary
steel-drilling bit (as opposed to wood and plastic) which had already seen
quite a bit of use. Took a little less than a minute to drill about 3/4
inch into the stud. I've done this before on "hardened" steel, using a
carbide tipped bit, and it went real fast.
wk
For about $8.00-$10.00 you can get a solid carbide drill and drill the bolt and use an "easy-out" If it doesn't
work, you've only lost a few bucks. However, that's what I use to cut tool steel, Monel, Inconel, etc. I doubt that bolt is as hard as any of those. Worth a try. You can get the carbide drills at places like MSC <a href="http://www.mcsdirect.com" target="_blank">www.mcsdirect.com</a> J&L Industrial Supply <a href="http://www.jandlindustrial.com" target="_blank">www.jandlindustrial.com</a>
Happy Trails,
Dave Shaeffer
1985 S Auto (Blauhai)
If it's a hardened bolt, about the only thing you can do is get a hole sawcutting drill bit and cut out around the bolt. Use the smallest one that will allow you to get around the bolt. You will then need to get an insert from an industrial supply house and fit the insert into the hole. The insert will have to be drilled and tapped to recieve the new bolt. This should be done before insertion. Good luck.
Roy Vernik
King o'd' Doody heads
'94 928GTS 5 Speed
I have even drilled out hardened socket head cap screws and they are like 190,000psi yield material (tough). It is a matter of enough pressure at the drill bit tip. The correct hardened tool steel or exotic or coated metal can work great. The cream of the crop is high boron tool steel. Sometimes you have to use a grinder to make a flat spot and to dimple to get the drill point to start cutting but it can almost always be done. There are always tools harder than parts. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to make the parts. To get the pressure you need to cut you need to start with very small drill sizes so that you can generate the pressure needed to start it cutting. Then work your way up in very small size increments. Patience is a major virtue when doing this. The right cutting oil helps too. I have found that if you dip your drill bits in Mobil 1 before you start and then stop periodically during the cut to dip it again that the cut goes alot easier. Mobil 1 is amazing stuff. Try it anytime you are drilling in metal.
jk
I broke 2 water pump bolts off and broke easyouts off in both of them. Also broke a cam box bolt off in a 944 head. On all of them, I punched the center of the broken stud as best I could and then drilled them out with a Cobalt drill bit just undersize to the original bolt diameter. Was tedious but worked. Remember, the harder the metal, the slower the bit speed. Also, for another broken easyout (see a pattern?) I drilled it out with a broken bolt remover I got from Ace Hardware. The thing has a fluted/wide bit face and a screw down collar that threads over the bit. The screw down piece is slightly tapered and has wide thread pitch. I will have to go down to my garage to see the name of it. It went through the easyout like it was butter.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
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Well, here is the little PITA.
<img src="http://www.geeks-at-large.com/cebay/2.JPG" alt=" - " />
I think I am just going to have to call in a pro before I screw something, if I haven't already. If any Bay area sharkers want to lend a hand, I'm more than willing to drop a small sum on getting it done and learn how to do it myself later on.
Thanks for all your help guys!
<img src="http://www.geeks-at-large.com/cebay/2.JPG" alt=" - " />
I think I am just going to have to call in a pro before I screw something, if I haven't already. If any Bay area sharkers want to lend a hand, I'm more than willing to drop a small sum on getting it done and learn how to do it myself later on.
Thanks for all your help guys!