John..

What is the best method to prime the engine oil system after a rebuild. Can I hood an air tool up to the oil pump and turn it over until I get pressure?

deltaP

assuming you used assembly lube in all the correct places, you can just crank the engine over. make sure it wont start by disconnecting the ignition coils, or the fuel pump relay.

Erik - Denmark

John,
As Delta said + fill the oil filter.
When I started-up after installing a new block, we put a low air pressure on the crankcase while we turned the engine with disconnected coil(s).
Use the oil stick pipe and block the ventilation tube, then after few turns you have oil pressure.
Good luck! <img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" />

tresamore

John, You beat me to the punch on this question. I was thinking of using a little assembly lube in the pump and running it with a drill to make sure that the system was primed and would generate pressure. The key is pressure. I'd rather find a little pressure leak or assembly problem on the stand now than after it's in the car running under its own power destroying itself!

tresamore

Me again <img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" /> ,
I somehow hit enter to post when I thought I was still in the text box <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" /> .

I would disconnect the coils and pump relay. Even though its minimum, you would not want fuel to cut the oils your using to seat the rings with. Especially if you crank it for a bit to get the oil pressure up. I usually do the initial crank w/ the spark plugs out so the bearings are under no compression load. I know thats might be a bit much, but its easy to do and its worked for me in the past. You could also crank the motor before you put it in the car if you'd like.

Erik,
It pains me to write this because you've been a GREAT help to me with my car, but pressurizing a crank even at low pressure would scare the dookie outa me. I might be wrong, but those areas are usually under a slight negative pressure from the PCV circuit. I would be afraid to displace a gasket or pop a seal even at low pressure. Your still the man Erik. Really.

kaamacat

I do have a suggestion here that might help.

Pull all the spark plugs also. (cover the openings somehow save so nothing can get out, or sucked in......I mean close to the hole, but not right next to it). That will get he engine spinning much faster, and save the wear-and-tear on the starter. (one of the nasty reasons a starter goes, is when the spark is not helping the pistons move).

Bob

Earl Gillstrom

On a 928 I do all three. 1, Assembly lube. 2, spin the oil pump before installing timing belt.
3, Crank the engine with no plugs, no spark and no fuel,(pull the relays) until there is oil pressure.

Erik - Denmark

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by tresamore:
<strong> ,
Erik,
It pains me to write this because you've been a GREAT help to me with my car, but pressurizing a crank even at low pressure would scare the dookie outa me. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Trasamore,
Thank you! I did and it works - I SAID LOW PRESSURE - The connection to the oil pin tube just sealed with a tissue in your hand - Yes you are right I should have said that from the beginning!
Remember: 1 Bar (14,2 Psi) is equal to 10 meter water column - Here you shall lift the oil about 25 cm I.e. you need about 1/40 Bar = 0,025 Bar or 0,35 Psi - that's peanuts!
I understand you, if you were thinking to make a fixed 'plumber' connection to the crankcase and then open for the compressed air - Then Buuuuum! DON'T DO THAT!
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />