Steve Cattaneo

Joe,R
If "swamp shark" as a name feels go to YOU,
go for it.

GO ARMY

Steve C
The great white

Nicole

I think there is a big misconception about what Water Wetter is supposed to do and how it works.

If it would make your engine run cooler (in a sense that you would see it on your temperature gauge), the thermostat would immediately correct that. It's the thermostat that regulates the coolant temperature, until you get into extreme conditions where there is nothing left to regulate...

Water wetter eliminates the little bubbles at the cooling surfaces, so that the heat can be transferred more efficiently from the metal/aluminum to the coolant.

This means, heat is transported away from your engine more efficiently, while the water temperature, regulated by the thermostat and displayed by the temperature gauge, will remain the same.

Now, why would you even want your engine to run cooler than what the factory recommends and has set the thermostat for? Reducing the temperature of your engine can have negative effects on wear, fuel efficiency and emissions.

Steve Cattaneo

Nicole,good point.

Lowering an engines operating temperature below the manufactures design temperature can have an adverse effect. Not only on engine wear, but also on engine drivability. The function of the cooling system with includes the t-stat is to maintain certain operating temperature in the engine, which is usually 195 degrees (for computer controlled cars). At a lowering operating temperature the cars ECU will think the engine is cold, which would put the engine in an open loop control mode (rich fuel mixture). The thermo time and engine temperature are sensors that are temperature sensitive. Their input controls fuel injector pulse time. Piston to cylinder wall and crank bearings clearances are tighter in a cold engine. Which also equals wear.

Toyota’s, Nissan’s and some Volvos with a 4-speed automatic transmission inhibit 4th (OD) gear until the engine reaches operating temperature. These cars will not shift into 4th gear unless the engine is hot.

Free diagnosis: if when hot, you have no forth gear and you own one of these cars, you can have a t-stat stuck open or a bad temperature sensor.

Steve C
The Great White

DP

All this talk about electrolysis has got me thinking and a little worried...I like the idea of a electrode pronged radiator cap but I can't find Performance parts, John mentioned them do they have a web site ...If so what is it...And where are they located ??? THANKS

Dave
79 Oak green metallic 5 speed

Steve Cattaneo

olias,I can't find Performance parts WWW.PERFORMANCEPRODUCTS.COM

GOOD LUCK
Steve C
The great white

DP

Steve...THANKS for the site ..They have the caps for $ 24.95 ..CHEAPER than a NEW radiator...Here is what they say about it.."No way, we said, after hearing that a radiator cap may prevent hundreds of dollars in engine damage. But we were talked into testing it and are convinced it works. All water-cooled aluminum and iron engines experience electrolysis--anywhere from 2 to 7 volts. This charge actually pulls molecules away from aluminum, eating at cylinder heads, engine covers, water pumps, radiators and heater cores. It's a leading cause of mechanical breakdowns. The solution is a magnesium anode built into the Radiator Cap. It draws current away from expensive aluminum components. The anode is sacrificed to prevent expensive repairs. (Your home water heater uses a similar anode for the same reasons.) Nothing will eliminate all electrolysis voltage in the system, but Rad Cap will add years of life to your cooling system. When the anode has been used up, about every year or two, you'll need a new Rad Cap. It''s an inexpensive alternative to a new water pump or cylinder head. Start protecting your engine today with its first Rad Cap. Recommended for 924, 944, 968 and 928. Does not fit 924 Turbo."

THANKS

Dave

79 Oak green metalic 5 speed

Nicole

Steve:

It does not make sense to me, why a cold engine should not allow the transmission to go into Overdrive - after all, it lowers the rpms, or prevents rpms that would be too high for a cold engine.

I think the crucial point is that you want to warm the engine quickly while driving with low to reasonable rpm, rather than letting it idle until it's warm. It takes much longer to warm it up in idle, while at the same time it uses gas and creates exhaust without providing any transportation. And the catalytic converter also takes longer to warm up, taking much longer to start it's "cleaning action".

My Saab - which BTW uses all four gears when cold - warms up in no time. I'd say no more than 3 miles until the water temperature is in it's warm position. In contrast, the 928 takes much, much longer - I'd say about twice as long at least.

Of course, none of them shows how long the oil takes to warm up...

LarryM

Sorry,
I used the term bottled water loosely. I bought the distilled water in the bottled water section of the grocery store.

John Struthers

Ed, Thanks, as usual, for a solid product recommendation.
Dr Bob, The water in Midland, Tx is great according to the Ex-mayor, city manager and water management/quality control people,
"unless of course you have heart, digestive,
immune system, problems...", hmmmm... .
The first and last drink of the local tap water hit my stomach like a cup of STRONG German coffee, vege's, pasta, tea, kool aid are ruined. Coffee pots last about five months on tap water. So the term Superior is similar to the Dallas Cowboys being named America's team - just words, meaningless, one's at that - !
Nicole, Houston, sometimes takes 2nd place to El Paso -del norte-, and the Austin/San Antonio corridor. Inversions rule ask anyone from L.A. Houston is heavy into petro-chemicals, and constantly, expanding into the swamps -Alot of burning going on and on and on... . With the humidity and generally, calm lower level -surface wind - air stability coupling with urban growth, swamp burn - off, and the huge amount of suspended airborne ditrius from the petro folks you get bad air. You should have seen Pittsburgh -the Smokey City- back in the 50's. That is where the steel mills ruled.
There is a visual reference chart that was developed in The Burgh and used as a reference by the Fed's for urban air quality nationwide. We had sunset at high noon when I was a kid! On the water temp/operating temp issue; there will always be condensates in our so called closed engine systems due to temperature differentials. Water being the major one that comes to mind. As the engine warms up the H2O turns into a gas and for the most part leaves the system via the tailpipe. Used to see it all the time at the tail end of big block Mopars, Chevy's and Ford's. I saw a big,older,Lexus -White/grey trim- that I thought had hit a puddle but was actually DUMPING water out of the duals, today! As far as I'm concerned as long as the engine gets rid of the water before it displaces the oil on say the Cams or Crank mains I'm happy. This isn't a hit but have you ever had a, NORMALLY, functioning automobile heat up as fast as your 928?
Pattycakes cools off instantly as soon as I move but at Idle I wouldn't dare trot in the house for a cup of coffee, that needle moves fast in either direction!!! You are right on the wasted gas and emissions.
Steve, Is the ECU mapping the rich fuel because it thinks a cold engine = startup?
Think distilled y'all.
Keep em' rolling.
John & Pattycakes

Steve Cattaneo

Nicole,

Yes, you want a car to reach operating temperature as soon as possible to maximize emissions and gas mileage. That’s why these cars inhibit fourth gear (OD) until hot. When we talk about an overdrive transmission (OD has a faster output speed then input speed) the engine turns slower in overdrive then the rear wheels. Most automatic transmissions have a 1:1 ratio in 3rd gear. It would take the engine longer to reach operating temperature in fourth (OD which is 0.84:1 ratio) then it would in 3rd (1:1 ratio). The engine turns faster in 3rd then in 4th. Thereby increasing the warm up time.


Steve C
The Great White