Electrical shutdown leads to a flatbed tow tonight
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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From: Franklin, TN
Electrical shutdown leads to a flatbed tow tonight
What happened tonight
Driving down to a soup kitchen this evening in the rain. Suddenly all instrument panel lights flicker on, then stay on. Hmm.
Aftermarket stereo shuts off by itself and then starts up again.
On off On off On off
Headlights seem to get dimmer.
Car conks out.
Interior lights and flashers continue to work. When I try to start the car again, all I get is a weird fluttering sound that seems to come from behind the center console.
What I did this week
Swap out the old washer tank and pump for a newer one. Had to flux and solder several wires. New system works.
Reconnect a deliberately cut line to the coolant tank. More soldering. Now the Coolant Low light is perpetually on. Methinks this is why the PO cut the thing.
That's it. Any possible cause and effect?
Or a bad alternator?
The old boy is back in the garage now. Thanks for your help.
Driving down to a soup kitchen this evening in the rain. Suddenly all instrument panel lights flicker on, then stay on. Hmm.
Aftermarket stereo shuts off by itself and then starts up again.
On off On off On off
Headlights seem to get dimmer.
Car conks out.
Interior lights and flashers continue to work. When I try to start the car again, all I get is a weird fluttering sound that seems to come from behind the center console.
What I did this week
Swap out the old washer tank and pump for a newer one. Had to flux and solder several wires. New system works.
Reconnect a deliberately cut line to the coolant tank. More soldering. Now the Coolant Low light is perpetually on. Methinks this is why the PO cut the thing.
That's it. Any possible cause and effect?
Or a bad alternator?
The old boy is back in the garage now. Thanks for your help.
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From: Park Ridge, IL (near Chicago)
Sorry to hear Tim.
Maybe try simple things first. Try putting a charger on the battery. Check connections at battery, ground strap, alternator terminals. Could be a battery drain (maybe somehow related to recent repairs, doubtful though) or a door edge light or interior light staying on. Alternator? maybe. Ignition switch, maybe.
Good luck and hope your get some good ideas.
P.S.
Glad this didn't happen right after your alarm install or I'd feel responsible.
Maybe try simple things first. Try putting a charger on the battery. Check connections at battery, ground strap, alternator terminals. Could be a battery drain (maybe somehow related to recent repairs, doubtful though) or a door edge light or interior light staying on. Alternator? maybe. Ignition switch, maybe.
Good luck and hope your get some good ideas.
P.S.
Glad this didn't happen right after your alarm install or I'd feel responsible.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,673
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From: ann arbor, MI
It was raining? Hard? Did you go through a big puddle? Did you possibly not reinstall the splash shield after the coolant tank operations? I'm thinking electrical wetting here... Once it dries out, it'll probably restart normally.
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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From: Franklin, TN
I discovered the cut wire leading to the coolant tank when I was working with the washer electrical line. It was purposefully cut. I used a leftover plug from my old washer tank that was the same config as the snipped-off existing one atop the coolant tank. Strangely now, even when that plug is pulled off of the top of the coolant tank, the Coolant Low light still lights up. Maybe I should cut that f*%cker again.
As always, you guys are the best.
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Electron Wrangler
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These are classic sysmptoms of the ignition switch going bad on the (15) output. Usually the car will not run or has issus running smoothly. This is causesd by interruptions on the ignition output - even a brief glitch will set off the dash lights - they don't go off until the starter is operated again... if it stays off for more than a fraction of a second the car will run unevenly if it stays off for much more time the car will stall at idle...
Alan
Alan
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Thread Starter
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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From: Franklin, TN
Okay so I installed a new ignition switch tonight. But the OB still won't start. All I hear is some fluttering from under the hood.
Might I have a bad alternator?
Bummed.
Might I have a bad alternator?
Bummed.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,007
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From: Chilton Wisconsin
If the battery is charged the engine should start regardless of the alternator.
Check battery voltage at the post in the engine compartment with the key off, then key on, then attempting to start. If the key on and cranking are all about the same the starter is not putting any draw on the system. Check the wiring at the starter, the big wire should have battery voltage (I think regardless of the key position).
Let us know what you find.
Check battery voltage at the post in the engine compartment with the key off, then key on, then attempting to start. If the key on and cranking are all about the same the starter is not putting any draw on the system. Check the wiring at the starter, the big wire should have battery voltage (I think regardless of the key position).
Let us know what you find.
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From: Franklin, TN
No. Just a weird fluttering sound. I might just make Sunday, though, given what WICruiser has said below...
Key off = 10.5 to 11V
Key on = 8.3V
Turning key = 3.5 to 4V
Thanks! I met you at Hacker's party, right?
If the battery is charged the engine should start regardless of the alternator.
Check battery voltage at the post in the engine compartment with the key off, then key on, then attempting to start. If the key on and cranking are all about the same the starter is not putting any draw on the system. Check the wiring at the starter, the big wire should have battery voltage (I think regardless of the key position).
Let us know what you find.
Check battery voltage at the post in the engine compartment with the key off, then key on, then attempting to start. If the key on and cranking are all about the same the starter is not putting any draw on the system. Check the wiring at the starter, the big wire should have battery voltage (I think regardless of the key position).
Let us know what you find.
Key on = 8.3V
Turning key = 3.5 to 4V
Thanks! I met you at Hacker's party, right?
Electron Wrangler
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No its not the alternator - that has nothing to do with starting the car - Battery is fully charged?
Check the front jump post connections & clean (disconnect battery first).
Check at the starter & alternator for solid clean connections.
The dash lights are on & stay bright while you are trying to crank the starter?
Alan
Check the front jump post connections & clean (disconnect battery first).
Check at the starter & alternator for solid clean connections.
The dash lights are on & stay bright while you are trying to crank the starter?
Alan
Electron Wrangler
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From: Phoenix AZ
Thread Starter
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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From: Franklin, TN
No its not the alternator - that has nothing to do with starting the car - Battery is fully charged?
Check the front jump post connections & clean (disconnect battery first).
Check at the starter & alternator for solid clean connections.
The dash lights are on & stay bright while you are trying to crank the starter?
Alan
Check the front jump post connections & clean (disconnect battery first).
Check at the starter & alternator for solid clean connections.
The dash lights are on & stay bright while you are trying to crank the starter?
Alan
I will jack up the car and see what the condition of the connections is at the starter and alternator.
Thank you Thank you!
Tim