Ride Height Too Low
Hi Wally,
I'm doing rack and lower ball joints this weekend. I want to have it aligned afterward.
It seems to me that I should check/adjust ride height prior to taking it to the alignment shop.
Adjusting it after the alignment would be a mistake right?
Also, I see the benefit of starting the alignment with fresh tires. Would just two fronts be acceptable? or would adding two new rear tires later be a cause to have the new alignment checked again when the new rears are added?
Thanks,
Greg
I'm doing rack and lower ball joints this weekend. I want to have it aligned afterward.
It seems to me that I should check/adjust ride height prior to taking it to the alignment shop.
Adjusting it after the alignment would be a mistake right?
Also, I see the benefit of starting the alignment with fresh tires. Would just two fronts be acceptable? or would adding two new rear tires later be a cause to have the new alignment checked again when the new rears are added?
Thanks,
Greg
Definitely want to do the alignment after the suspension and steering work, and after ride height adjustment.
No problem with doing all of that, including the alignment, before replacing the tires, front or rear.
No problem with doing all of that, including the alignment, before replacing the tires, front or rear.
So Wally, if my front tires are decent, I could do all the work, have the alignment done and then replace the tires in a few months after I recover from all the money I've given Dave R. for parts?
I always thought that the alignment was somewhat dependent on tire condition and a new set of tires would cause the need for a re-alignment.
I would like to only do the alignment once, but would be pleased to be able to wait on the tires.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Greg
I always thought that the alignment was somewhat dependent on tire condition and a new set of tires would cause the need for a re-alignment.
I would like to only do the alignment once, but would be pleased to be able to wait on the tires.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Greg
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[quote] So Wally, if my front tires are decent, I could do all the work, have the alignment done and then replace the tires in a few months after I recover from all the money I've given Dave R. for parts? <http://forums.rennlist.com/scripts/rennforums/smile.gif>
I always thought that the alignment was somewhat dependent on tire condition and a new set of tires would cause the need for a re-alignment.
I would like to only do the alignment once, but would be pleased to be able to wait on the tires.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Greg
<hr></blockquote>
Most alignments get done becuase the tires are worn funny and the customer is concerned, or the car pulls to one side and the customer is concerned. The alignment guys like to have the car go straight down the road when you drive, steering wheel centered on its own.
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A guy shows up with worn tires, and a car that doesn't track well. Hmmm, he has both common problems. Already has worn tires so the shop will get blamed for that later, especially since the tires can never wear evenly once they wear unevenly. If it doesn't pull to one side now with the worn tires, it will after a good alignment. So the owner may gripe about that too. Easy solution-- ask the owner to install new round true tires, making it easier to do work that will survive some driving, and result in minimal or no rework.
Reality is, the shop aligns the car's suspension system based on fixtures that clamp to the wheels. The alignment machine can't tell how the tires are worn. It just displays the various settings, and the tech/mechanic moves and adjusts things until the machine says that the two wheels are pointed in the right direction. It's not until the car is driven, and it pulls or tracks funny, that the tires come into play in the alignment process.
My two sense...
<img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
I always thought that the alignment was somewhat dependent on tire condition and a new set of tires would cause the need for a re-alignment.
I would like to only do the alignment once, but would be pleased to be able to wait on the tires.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Greg
<hr></blockquote>
Most alignments get done becuase the tires are worn funny and the customer is concerned, or the car pulls to one side and the customer is concerned. The alignment guys like to have the car go straight down the road when you drive, steering wheel centered on its own.
-----------
A guy shows up with worn tires, and a car that doesn't track well. Hmmm, he has both common problems. Already has worn tires so the shop will get blamed for that later, especially since the tires can never wear evenly once they wear unevenly. If it doesn't pull to one side now with the worn tires, it will after a good alignment. So the owner may gripe about that too. Easy solution-- ask the owner to install new round true tires, making it easier to do work that will survive some driving, and result in minimal or no rework.
Reality is, the shop aligns the car's suspension system based on fixtures that clamp to the wheels. The alignment machine can't tell how the tires are worn. It just displays the various settings, and the tech/mechanic moves and adjusts things until the machine says that the two wheels are pointed in the right direction. It's not until the car is driven, and it pulls or tracks funny, that the tires come into play in the alignment process.
My two sense...
<img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
Donald-
I bought a Motion-Pro #08-0029 "Mono Shock Spanner". About $16. I got it at a Suzuki shop and I asked for a ATV shock wrench. I'll bet you can find one in College Station. Try Yamaha, Suzuki or Kawasaki shops - especially if they sell ATV's. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Steve J.
"The work will teach you how to do it."
I bought a Motion-Pro #08-0029 "Mono Shock Spanner". About $16. I got it at a Suzuki shop and I asked for a ATV shock wrench. I'll bet you can find one in College Station. Try Yamaha, Suzuki or Kawasaki shops - especially if they sell ATV's. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Steve J.
"The work will teach you how to do it."
I am sharky928@yahoo.com on the DFW928 list.
BTW - I now have my ride height set at 175mm on all four corners. It looks great - slightly nose down but not so much like a funny car. NTB re-aligned the car at no charge. It felt strange at first - up high like I was on tippy toes. But the car has been transformed and the ride is far better - feels like a new car. Not mushy like it was but not bone-jarring either. Unfortunately, during the process of adjusting, driving, measuring, adjusting, driving, measuring, etc. the toe out was so bad that the insides of the front tires became slightly scalloped. I don't think they will ever wear evenly now.
Steve J.
BTW - I now have my ride height set at 175mm on all four corners. It looks great - slightly nose down but not so much like a funny car. NTB re-aligned the car at no charge. It felt strange at first - up high like I was on tippy toes. But the car has been transformed and the ride is far better - feels like a new car. Not mushy like it was but not bone-jarring either. Unfortunately, during the process of adjusting, driving, measuring, adjusting, driving, measuring, etc. the toe out was so bad that the insides of the front tires became slightly scalloped. I don't think they will ever wear evenly now.
Steve J.



