Bernie

I am currently in the process of tighening up my car for the installation of the super$#$%^*(. Shhhhh!

There are a few oil leaks that I want to attend to and this will require a new oil pan gasket. I thought I read somewhere about changing out the bottom end bearings? What bearings are accessible when the oil pan is off and can they really be changed without any major teardown?
My shark has about 150,000miles on the bottomend so it would be cool if I could change some of that stuff out. Car burns NO oil between changes -5000miles + so I have no worries right now with topend. However, the motor does sound a little loose in the bottom end compared to other cars I have heard.

Any input is, as always, appreciated.

Bernie

Ed Ruiz

All of the rod bearings are accessible when the pan is removed. Also, have you replaced your motor mounts? If not, this would be a good time to do it. And while you've got the steering rack down, you may as well replace the bushings. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> YMMV.

~ Merry motoring ~

Bernie

Excellent Ed - Thanx.
How big of a job is it to change out these bearings and is it $$$$$$

Ed Ruiz

The major expense are the replacement bearings, which were about $125 for the set when I did it about six years ago. You should also get new rod nuts, which will set you back another $25 or so.

Although the cost for parts are relatively cheap, the amount of time to do the job is considerable. YMMV.

BC

Bernie -

I found the bearings for less than What Ed is Stating, but your monkey may vibrate.

<a href="http://www.paragonproducts.com" target="_blank">www.paragonproducts.com</a> is a great source. Just buy two 944 sets.

Or 928intl has them for 85 bucks I believe.

They are GLYCO bearings, by federal mogul.
STD size is 71-3431/04

Old & New

err, you mean <a href="http://www.paragon-products.com/" target="_blank">http://www.paragon-products.com/</a>

Bernie

Thanx Lads,
Has anyone ever posted a writeup on doing this? How much work is actually involved and what would you consider a reasonable amount of time for a newbie to complete this sort of task???

Greg86andahalf

Bernie,

I'm doing my rod bearings in about a month or less.
Here is a great write-up on 944 rod bearing replacement. Just read it twice for a 928

<a href="http://64.226.197.185/Paragon/Tech/944_rod_bearing_replacement.htm" target="_blank">Paragon tech 944 rod bearing replacement</a>

I guess it would be smart for me to wait until you "live and learn" on yours before I start mine. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Greg

Bernie

Of course you know it may take me three times as long as anyone else with all the damn pics I take as I go along.
Thanx for the guinea pig status.........
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

Lets make it a contest to see who can F it up first.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />

BC

Right. Thanks O/N.

jason at paragon is a great guy, very helpful.

I did this job in December. Some say get new nuts, some don't. Some say that the bolt stretches, so it should be replaced, but that involves a press, and a very disassembled engine, so....

Bernie

Hey Greg,
Read through the procedure you linked for the 944. Man, that seems relatively involved now doesn't it?
Do I really have to rip off the intake that I just finished a month ago - dammit?
Could have done it at the same time. You know the 928 while your at it should just be "WYAI - rebuild the engine"......


I am hoping that there may be a way to do this without getting that deep. Betcha someones gonna say haha - no way......

All I can say is that if I go through all that trouble, I had better get some noticeable results.

If anyone has discovered a writeup on this that is 928 specific, by all means - post away.

Ed Ruiz

To do a oil-pan, rod-bearing job on a 928, the intake manifold need not be touched. YMMV.

Bernie

Eddddddd.......

You just made my day. That makes this procedure a much more palatable option. Alright then, time to add this one to the list.
Not until I finish that bloody stereo though..

Its going well BTW -
Anyone interested can cruise my homepage link and navigate around to find the Stereo From Hell under pictures.

Greg86andahalf

Bernie,

I don't know why the guy pulled the intake. Maybe because it is a turbo, maybe because he had a homemade engine support and needed the clearance?

Some of the basics of the article are good, although obviously not 928 specific.

Greg

dr bob

The nuts are too cheap to ignore, especially with all the aggravation involved in getting the oil sump off.

Inspect the crank journals for wear, and look carefully at the old bearings to see if there's a wear pattern that might indicate existing trouble. Purists will use Plastigage to identify the clearances before final assembly; if you go this route be sure to save the new nuts for the final assembly and torque.

Otherwise: do them one at a time. Note the direction the rod cap comes off, and be sure to install it the same way with the new shells in there. Torque wrench is a must.

Takes five minutes per rod bearing once the sump and rack are out of the way. Pull the spark plugs before you start, as you'll need to roll the engine to get each rod into position. Then just rotate the crank a little instead of trying to push or pull the piston in the bore. Allow ten minutes per if you decide to plastigage for clearance check.

HTH!