Brittany Chen Li

This morning I got to drive my baby this morning and I was so happy it started. I found the reason my battery would drain down thanks to a post here that said something about a drain from the rear hatch light switch. So I disconnected that switch and my battery is fine and started the car right up. I decided to hose down the windscreen and hood from the dust of the last few days and when I shut the door; it locked, with the only key inside and the engine running. Ahh !! I said. I went to the back hatch to see if it was shut it was. But for some reason I yanked up on the tail and she opened right up. I jumped in the backside and unlocked the door. So…. Why Is my hatch not shutting properly? It has an excessive gap between the hatch and the body. Also I see the Plastic part on the hatch that the latch is in has a hairline crack on it. The thing will not shut down tight and that’s why the light switch was not engaged and the battery runs down. Not to mention the no security of the rear hatch. Any one have a good cheep fix for this
Thanks to all! Brittany Chen Li

Simon Jester

Thee's a good chance you just need one of these:

<a href="http://www.mailordercentral.com/928intl/prodinfo.asp?number=928%20512%20161%2002&variation=&aitem=21&mitem=25" target="_blank">http://www.mailordercentral.com/928intl/prodinfo.asp?number=928%20512%20161%2002&variation=&aitem=21&mitem=25</a>

The latch bolts are different for security and non-security locks. Be sure to get the right one.

You may also need to adjust the hatch latch position a bit. You can find instructions here:

<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/keepers.html" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/keepers.html</a>

My rear hatch wouldn't stay latched. I just replaced a $5.00 part and she's been fine ever since.

WallyP

First question:
Does your remote hatch release work properly?

If the answer is "No", the problem may be that the release motor has stopped at the release position. Check fuse # 26.

You do have a problem with the locks - it should not be possible to lock the keys in the car. Roll the window down and try the locks several times - the doors should never lock automatically.

Brittany Chen Li

Yes Wally, Your right the remote release never has worked since i got her. I'll go check the fuse at lunch time. The Door hass locked by its self many times but I always had some thing open to get in.
Thanks Wally and Thanks Simon!

Ron_H

I carry a spare key (the long one!) in my pocket because of that very same situation: I once closed the door with the engine running, the hatch closed and it locked.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" /> ....but the sunroof was open
What a panic!!
I find that if I actuate the red door lock button on the dash, but then press it again to exit then close the door again upon exiting, the doors will lock automatically
So I make sure to carry a spare key. Guess I need to do more homework if that is not normal.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />

Brittany Chen Li

I got a blank key but no one around me that I found can cut it. I'm in GA and SC this week. Britt
Wally... I checked the fuse it’s a 5 amp and its fine. I pulled up on the release and it operates the motor and I see the little arm and bar rotate. But It does nothing else what ever it connects to must be stuck. Also the thin Rubber or plastic square edging material is broken and totally gone know from the lower latch receiver/ release part. Is this Important? Thanks Britt

Big Dave

Britt:

Take your key blank and VIN# to the nearest Porsche dealer (you may need proof of ownership). It cost me $70 and 3 months before they got it right, but I got my key.

Since you already have the key blank, it ought to cost you less.

Brittany Chen Li

Thanks Dave i'll try that why did it cost so much? Britt

Thaddeus

I got a key blank from Paragon and took my keys to my local hardware store. 1.00 to cut it: it works fine. They were nervous when I told them the blank was 6 bucks or whatever, but agreed it was "at my risk". They were super careful though. So now I have 3 keys. Type A personalities... grr.. I make myself sick!

Larry

Actually, Dave, I think at least one of the Big 3 will make a key for far less than $70 if you provided them the VIN.

Brittany Chen Li

Thaddeus What you talking about? A hardware store on a regular key machine? this thing has cuts on 4 sides and its a Steel key most keys are made or Brass and unless they had a machine for steel keys they ruined ther cutting wheel. now ther maybe brass porsche key out there aftermarket type but still a regular key machine? Was it some 17 year old kid? And it worked? Are you sure about this my friend? Britt

OH !!!! I see you have a 944... A VW key blank.. okay that makes more sense.

Th Dude

<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=003417" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=003417</a>

Good key cutting reviews for this fellow above.
Tony Euganeo
610-461-0519

$25 Regular key
$60 Lighted head key
Both price include the cutting AND the key blank.
Sent my spare to him last week. Expect it back anytime now.
The Rennlist link I provided above had several good reviews about Tony.

Jim bailey - 928 International

The 928 key blanks are cut on a standard key machine BUT with a $150 adapter to hold the key at an angle . We have one ; we make copies all the time . I must have the key to copy it . Ordering a key by vin # is something which only a Porsche Dealer is supposed to be able to do and only after confirming that the car BELONGS to the person requesting the key . Otherwise anyone could read the window Vin # from a car they see parked on a street ...order a key and go back and simply drive it away the next time they see it ....... The Porsche keys by Vin number used to all be made in Reno , then Atlanta now possibly Germany BUT after the move to Atlanta often they missed on the key and it did not work . There were rumors that the machine needed to be recalibrated and may have gone back to the fatherland . Now about the rear hatch lock . The alarm style upper lock black post is machined inside and too thin on the passenger right side . As a result the post cracks . Once cracked the electric hatch release seldom works because when the mechanism protrudes out of the base to push the white plastic catch back into the post ..the post twists and the catch is not pushed back far enough . The receiver on the bottom must have the rubber liner to locate the post and keep it from popping open , it also will stop many rattles and squeeks . The liner is sold as part of the lower reciever about $95 . The upper lack post assembly with the ability to engage and disengage the alarm is about $350 and WOULD BE A SEPERATE KEY . The non alarm is about $120 (seperate key) if you use a nonalarm lock and have attached the ground wire . If anyone pryed open the hatch (which is nearly impossible)after you locked the door as soon as the interior lights go on the alarm goes . For $35 labor we restack the shims in the locks to function with your existing key BUT we must have the key here . It is possible to order an entire lock set new from Porsche $1,031 and like nearly everything in our catalogue or virtual store it is on the shelf in our inventory

Brittany Chen Li

Jim, is the Key machine a HPC dial type or is it a normal sliding duplicator. Who make the adapter? My family use to own a large locksmith shop in South Florida. I still have a key machine and can still order stuff from our old supplers. I hate locks and keys but it's a good skill to have. Please e-me with the adapter name and number if you can.
Thanks Brittany

Brittany Chen Li

Does any one have this a old or extra rubber thing for the rear hatch lock. My friend and I could mold and cast a new improved version of it.