Dry Sump or Accusump?
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,617
Likes: 1
From: California
Mike,
The scraper is a nice addition and will help, direct the output of the scraper away from the crank throw.....direct it into the pan!
You might want to reconsider the accusump as a means of keeping the engine alive under oil starvation situations caused by high g's.
Good luck,
Marc
The scraper is a nice addition and will help, direct the output of the scraper away from the crank throw.....direct it into the pan!
You might want to reconsider the accusump as a means of keeping the engine alive under oil starvation situations caused by high g's.
Good luck,
Marc
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 395
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
I'm sure that Louie's rod bearings were already having problems before he put the Accusump in. I don't think he really had it in for very long before he discovered the bearing problem. The foaming oil he found is what really got me thinking though. My objective was to get as much oil as possible back into the sump, and away from the rotating assembly, as fast as possible, and then keep it from sloshing back out.
I did give some thought to the oil staying on top of my baffle. It drains off of there at least as well as it does off of the rear higher portion of the pan, and it's not any closer to the rotating assembly than that part of the pan is. I found that polishing the rough casting surface of the rear portion of the pan seemed to help oil drain off of there better. A good portion of the area where the baffle is at is kind of shielded from the rotating assembly by the oil pump pickup tube and bracket too.
The breather modification and scrapers should also help to reduce the oil cloud, and also to help oil drain back from the passenger side cylinder head. The blowby gasses are being drawn out from the crankcase only, and not from the valve cover. That will prevent any blowby gasses going up through the drain holes at the same time that the oil is trying to go down those same holes. The scrapers are also positioned so that they shield the oil drain openings from that head from any oil that might be thrown at and into them by the rotating assembly.
My thinking is that the dry sump would be the best way to go. I do think that the Accusump helps too though. Anything that will help keep a little more oil where it's supposed to be. I'm thinking the modifications I did should do that to at least some extent.
The truth is that I probably really don't need anything. My car is an automatic that basicly spends most it's life in "D", and I don't track the car. The stuff I did was primarily to try to improve things a little bit while I was in there, and to maybe pick up a little power from the scrapers and breather modification. I'll have to wait and see if they actually did that when I get the car back on the dyno.
I did give some thought to the oil staying on top of my baffle. It drains off of there at least as well as it does off of the rear higher portion of the pan, and it's not any closer to the rotating assembly than that part of the pan is. I found that polishing the rough casting surface of the rear portion of the pan seemed to help oil drain off of there better. A good portion of the area where the baffle is at is kind of shielded from the rotating assembly by the oil pump pickup tube and bracket too.
The breather modification and scrapers should also help to reduce the oil cloud, and also to help oil drain back from the passenger side cylinder head. The blowby gasses are being drawn out from the crankcase only, and not from the valve cover. That will prevent any blowby gasses going up through the drain holes at the same time that the oil is trying to go down those same holes. The scrapers are also positioned so that they shield the oil drain openings from that head from any oil that might be thrown at and into them by the rotating assembly.
My thinking is that the dry sump would be the best way to go. I do think that the Accusump helps too though. Anything that will help keep a little more oil where it's supposed to be. I'm thinking the modifications I did should do that to at least some extent.
The truth is that I probably really don't need anything. My car is an automatic that basicly spends most it's life in "D", and I don't track the car. The stuff I did was primarily to try to improve things a little bit while I was in there, and to maybe pick up a little power from the scrapers and breather modification. I'll have to wait and see if they actually did that when I get the car back on the dyno.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
From: Santa Cruz, California
About this foaming issue... we had the distinct pleasure of sitting next to Penske's (CART + NASCAR) Mobil 1 guy in a Detroit hotel bar several times over the last few years during the race at Belle Isle. His name was Bob. He was basically retired after 30 yrs of oil engineering and was consulting at the tracks. Figure this guy has forgotten more about oil than we'll ever know.
Anyway, he explained at length about the multitude of additives they use to control foaming. He says it's the single biggest problem they face racing, especially the banked ovals. Almost every track gets a different formula with the idea of controlling foam and thermal breakdown. When they get it right it makes all the difference.
Mike LaBranche
84S, black/black, AT
83 EuroS, weinrot, 5spd
Anyway, he explained at length about the multitude of additives they use to control foaming. He says it's the single biggest problem they face racing, especially the banked ovals. Almost every track gets a different formula with the idea of controlling foam and thermal breakdown. When they get it right it makes all the difference.
Mike LaBranche
84S, black/black, AT
83 EuroS, weinrot, 5spd
