You need to read through this forum.

 

Llew - if your door switch doesn't work the chime won't either... it chimes only when the door is open with the lights on - try with the passenger door if that operates the lights...? The wires so to the central electric panel to the interior light relay... (assuming you have one - what year?)

Alan

 

Hi Alan

Thanks for the reply! My car is a 91 MY GT... The drivers door pin is missing. There is just a hole in its place - I have got a new pin/switch from porsche which I am going to fit hopefully this weekend. The interior lights work fine with the drivers side bypassed, ie when you open the passenger door, the central light and the passenger door light comes on, but there is no chime if you leave the lights on. Also you can operate the remote boot release from driver OR passenger side, as long as the passenger door is open. Neither work when you open the drivers door.

I need to install the switch and the wire that goes to the switch but I am not sure where it terminates!

Thanks

Llew

 

Well got pin switch problems again thanks to the body shop. Got my car back from the body shop and both pin switches are broke. I think they panic'd when the passenger side door wiring arc'd and started smoking. Here's my question. The porsche pin switches are junk. Their 12.95 each and about 11.95 too high for the quality. Has anyone changed these to a different type or manufacturer? I'd hate to blow another 30.00 on junk. Jason

 

Talk to Rog, I'm sure you can grab a couple of used ones and reconnect them. Did you, or the body shop go through the sleeve that connects the wires from the door to the body? That is a break point for all the wires that go from the windows/locks.

 

He said he was going to look for some and send them with the other seat bolts and nuts I asked for. I think he was waiting for you to come over and help out with the seat bolts.

 

I got those together today, I can't believe how expensive those damn things are. I can pull a couple of the pins tomorrow for you if you want them.

 

Please do Sean. Let me know what I need to pay. Jason

 

if you try to solder the pins to the wire be very careful as you will melt the center portion of the pin switch. The wire that your connecting to the pin switch is a ground wire, once the switch is grounded then it activates whatever you have connected to that switch. Its common to melt the aft end of the switch and then the innards break off and the then the wire will just hang inside the fender

 

I've just cleaned-up and soldered mine.

Simply cut the wires at footwells to remove. (spliced some wire to lengthen each and soldered/shrinkwrapped them to reinstall.)

Using a mechanics pick and screwdriver, I removed the metal clamp from the plastic pushpin and disassembled. Took a dremel w/ fine wire brush and polished the parts that need to contact electrically. This is best done disassembled. Uncrimped, cleaned where the wire attaches and crimp/soldered. This should originally be a brown/white wire which designates that it is a switched ground.

Then, reassembled each.

Works great now.

Did 2 doors, hatch and glove box units this way.

 

Jason, I too didn't want to pay the $ for more junk switches, so I replaced mine with some from a G.M. IIRC. they were only around 3.00 ea and all metal. The only mod I had to do was to run a 3/8 tap into the original hole for them to work, it was so close already, it felt like I wasn't doing anything with the tap, but just removed very little to get them to pit properly. These are also a self adjusting type, but you need to take a piece of wood and tap them down stightly before closing door or you will bend them. upon closing the doors the first time the doors will push them down the rest of the way for correct clearence between door and post.

 

This is what I was thinking also. I have some of them laying around.