ELECTRICAL BONER!
08-12-2002, 05:16 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
ELECTRICAL BONER!
Well the E bay purchased Ja/Nein Lampenkontrollgerat arrived. I examined it for corrosion, melted plastic and condition of the 12 monster pins. then ran blind continuity and resisistance, and voltage drop checks across the pins - recorded all readings pin by pin.
Checked the fuses and relays for condition and tightness. Disconnected the battery and put it on the charger. Discovered the mount bar for the control unit also secures the fuse panel door - balance is everything -. Disconnected the two wire connector then the fun began. The lead wires run into a 'slip on cap' (sic) and since the controller is mounted facing toward the firewall with the mount bar blocking good access for large hands I figured on flipping the bar over/around so I could wrestle the cap off without damaging something in the outta' reach zone. Alas, as I was wiggling the cap to and fro - could see 1/8" of the pins - I applied full farmer grip and a snap cap came off of the top of the wire lead cap.
Merde! With nothing to hold the wire connectors in place they all left the cap as the cap parted from the control unit body, Oh, JOY!
Of course, one could hope that the wire bundle leading to the cap would leave the wires 'frozen'
in position... such was not the case <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
Hence, a series of questions.
First, Max I can only open a portion of the magic disk. Did a backup before use ... can only open a few files/sub files though I do have that in english...I'll E mail you...
1.I believe I have the correct wires - left to right but the sequence is off. I put it back together on the original control unit , hooked up the battery. Different lights are now offline.
Anyone able to replicate the proper order for me recieves serious consideration for Sainthood.
2.While pondering my bad luck/stupidity I pulled the original controller and duplicated the blind pin out tests. So either two bad units or two good units. Either way the test results were identical. I have eliminated EVERYTHING else with the possible exception of the brake switch. Is there 'EASY'way of removing that puppy?
3. Until I convince the old Compaq to display the Pet 5 I'm kinda stuck.
So to the electrical Guru's:
Re cap of original problem; when brake pedal is depressed I lose both left side marker lights and the left rear running light but the brake and back-up lights as well as all front lighting and right side marker lights, turn signal, 4 way and fogs, function just fine. I lose the L/S marker light fuse when the pedal is depressed. Also my brake pressure warn is on -Master is good, no leaks, good boots, recent new pads/wires and fluid flush, good pedal -.
1.Since the lamp control unit evidently alerts the master caution and dash warning display I obviously don't want to do irreverseable mods for a temp bypass assuming my problem isn't related to the brake switch.
Does the belt tension warning go thru the lamp control unit?
2. As a temp bypass can I just leave the wires unplugged from the control unit and tape them.
The relay relies on the seperate wire bundles for ground, correct?
The controller is basically a switchable voltage/wattage comparator, correct?
If the above holds true I should be able to either just tape the wires at the connector end, OR, tape the matching leads -compared wires- together, correct?
I am prepared to carry the heavy burden of 'FREE' electrical knowledge on my sloping shoulders...
Feel free to heap it on!
TIA
John S.and the Uninspected Pattycakes <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Checked the fuses and relays for condition and tightness. Disconnected the battery and put it on the charger. Discovered the mount bar for the control unit also secures the fuse panel door - balance is everything -. Disconnected the two wire connector then the fun began. The lead wires run into a 'slip on cap' (sic) and since the controller is mounted facing toward the firewall with the mount bar blocking good access for large hands I figured on flipping the bar over/around so I could wrestle the cap off without damaging something in the outta' reach zone. Alas, as I was wiggling the cap to and fro - could see 1/8" of the pins - I applied full farmer grip and a snap cap came off of the top of the wire lead cap.
Merde! With nothing to hold the wire connectors in place they all left the cap as the cap parted from the control unit body, Oh, JOY!Of course, one could hope that the wire bundle leading to the cap would leave the wires 'frozen'
in position... such was not the case <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
Hence, a series of questions.
First, Max I can only open a portion of the magic disk. Did a backup before use ... can only open a few files/sub files though I do have that in english...I'll E mail you...
1.I believe I have the correct wires - left to right but the sequence is off. I put it back together on the original control unit , hooked up the battery. Different lights are now offline.
Anyone able to replicate the proper order for me recieves serious consideration for Sainthood.
2.While pondering my bad luck/stupidity I pulled the original controller and duplicated the blind pin out tests. So either two bad units or two good units. Either way the test results were identical. I have eliminated EVERYTHING else with the possible exception of the brake switch. Is there 'EASY'way of removing that puppy?
3. Until I convince the old Compaq to display the Pet 5 I'm kinda stuck.
So to the electrical Guru's:
Re cap of original problem; when brake pedal is depressed I lose both left side marker lights and the left rear running light but the brake and back-up lights as well as all front lighting and right side marker lights, turn signal, 4 way and fogs, function just fine. I lose the L/S marker light fuse when the pedal is depressed. Also my brake pressure warn is on -Master is good, no leaks, good boots, recent new pads/wires and fluid flush, good pedal -.
1.Since the lamp control unit evidently alerts the master caution and dash warning display I obviously don't want to do irreverseable mods for a temp bypass assuming my problem isn't related to the brake switch.
Does the belt tension warning go thru the lamp control unit?
2. As a temp bypass can I just leave the wires unplugged from the control unit and tape them.
The relay relies on the seperate wire bundles for ground, correct?
The controller is basically a switchable voltage/wattage comparator, correct?
If the above holds true I should be able to either just tape the wires at the connector end, OR, tape the matching leads -compared wires- together, correct?
I am prepared to carry the heavy burden of 'FREE' electrical knowledge on my sloping shoulders...
Feel free to heap it on!
TIA
John S.and the Uninspected Pattycakes <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
08-12-2002, 06:52 AM
#2
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John,
I hope you are talking about a piece of space shuttle equipment here, not something my shark might carry?
If not, shuddering going on here.
Only electrical problem I have is intermittent speedo, and a disconnected alarm (PO). I hope it gets no worse.
good luck,
jp
I hope you are talking about a piece of space shuttle equipment here, not something my shark might carry?
If not, shuddering going on here.
Only electrical problem I have is intermittent speedo, and a disconnected alarm (PO). I hope it gets no worse.
good luck,
jp
08-12-2002, 12:40 PM
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John, what is keeping "your old Compaq from displaying the PET 5" ?
The Compaq can't run a 1280 x 1024 screen display ?
There are ways around this....
Brad
'78 euro 5 speed
928 Owners Club
Rennlist #020804-2937
<a href="http://www.p-caronline.com/directory/showngo/" target="_blank">928 euro</a>
The Compaq can't run a 1280 x 1024 screen display ?
There are ways around this....
Brad
'78 euro 5 speed
928 Owners Club
Rennlist #020804-2937
<a href="http://www.p-caronline.com/directory/showngo/" target="_blank">928 euro</a>
08-12-2002, 01:32 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
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Hi Brad,
How do you get around that? My maximum resolution is 1024x768 via control panel any adjustment that I can find. That reduces the viewable screen area. It likes 800x600 to make it view fullscreen. I am running Windows 98, with an intel(R) 828010 Graphics Controller. The Proview 572 monitor is small. But, it has max resolution 1024x768 & 1280x1024 per the manual. It uses plug and play. No drivers are required.
Is this a limitation of the graphics card? Can I download an upgrade?
Any help would be appreciated.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
How do you get around that? My maximum resolution is 1024x768 via control panel any adjustment that I can find. That reduces the viewable screen area. It likes 800x600 to make it view fullscreen. I am running Windows 98, with an intel(R) 828010 Graphics Controller. The Proview 572 monitor is small. But, it has max resolution 1024x768 & 1280x1024 per the manual. It uses plug and play. No drivers are required.
Is this a limitation of the graphics card? Can I download an upgrade?
Any help would be appreciated.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
08-12-2002, 01:47 PM
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Hi Thom,
Get one of those virtual-desktop programs that lets you have a desktop that extends off the edge of the screen. It may be clumbersome to have to scroll left-right, up & down (like on posts where people upload pictures that are TOO WIDE), but at least you'll be able to use the PET-CD.
Check this one out: <a href="http://www.triplus.com" target="_blank">http://www.triplus.com</a>
.... try the WinSpace software. It has worked for others to allow them to run PET 5 on monitors not capable of running a 1280 x 1024 display.
Hope this helps! <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />
Brad
'78 euro 5 speed
928 Owners Club
Rennlist #020804-2937
<a href="http://www.p-caronline.com/directory/showngo/" target="_blank">928 euro</a>
Get one of those virtual-desktop programs that lets you have a desktop that extends off the edge of the screen. It may be clumbersome to have to scroll left-right, up & down (like on posts where people upload pictures that are TOO WIDE), but at least you'll be able to use the PET-CD.
Check this one out: <a href="http://www.triplus.com" target="_blank">http://www.triplus.com</a>
.... try the WinSpace software. It has worked for others to allow them to run PET 5 on monitors not capable of running a 1280 x 1024 display.
Hope this helps! <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />
Brad
'78 euro 5 speed
928 Owners Club
Rennlist #020804-2937
<a href="http://www.p-caronline.com/directory/showngo/" target="_blank">928 euro</a>
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08-12-2002, 03:06 PM
#8
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I have a laptop, Dell Latitude CP, that won't run the PET 5 either. The screen won't reduce far enough. I load the PET and it takes up the whole screen and leaves me with no way of moving thru the program. I also run Windows 98. Can someone help for a way around this. Thanks
Bill
Bill
08-12-2002, 04:41 PM
#9
Sharkaholic
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John,
Sorry to hear your electrical gremlin continues. And a big thank you for helping me with mine. Got backup lights now. While I was doing my tb/wp etc, I applied your method of removing the bulbs. After three days of wd-40 and wiggling they came out (whole), and cleaned the sockets thoroughly, installed new bulbs, cleaned connectors (white eraser, and now I have light. With an added bonus, my door marker lights are now working! Thanks
<img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
Sorry to hear your electrical gremlin continues. And a big thank you for helping me with mine. Got backup lights now. While I was doing my tb/wp etc, I applied your method of removing the bulbs. After three days of wd-40 and wiggling they came out (whole), and cleaned the sockets thoroughly, installed new bulbs, cleaned connectors (white eraser, and now I have light. With an added bonus, my door marker lights are now working! Thanks
<img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
08-15-2002, 12:13 AM
#11
User
Thread Starter
Greg,
Yep, sat down with a note book and swapped things around, schematically speaking.
Light system back to it's original state(side marker/brake pedal glitch).
Swapped in the replacement lamp controller and problem remained the same. Unit was used, remotely possible that the units are identically flawed...it could happen.
I'm down to the brake switch ...any tips on EASY removal/replacement...huh, huh?
And the light switch itself. Failing that, I have my eyes on several spools of wire for restringing the brakes and markers to include grounds.
I've been taking bootleg drives with the expired inspection sticker since JULY just to keep the seals soft. Otherwise, she is temporarily -I hope- a glistening bookend!
<img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" /> 
Yep, sat down with a note book and swapped things around, schematically speaking.
Light system back to it's original state(side marker/brake pedal glitch).
Swapped in the replacement lamp controller and problem remained the same. Unit was used, remotely possible that the units are identically flawed...it could happen.
I'm down to the brake switch ...any tips on EASY removal/replacement...huh, huh?
And the light switch itself. Failing that, I have my eyes on several spools of wire for restringing the brakes and markers to include grounds.
I've been taking bootleg drives with the expired inspection sticker since JULY just to keep the seals soft. Otherwise, she is temporarily -I hope- a glistening bookend!
<img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
08-15-2002, 01:34 AM
#12
Three Wheelin'
John,
I'm probably just bending another nail here, but have you ohmed out the wiring harnesses to each lamp connector? Bulbs must be removed for test.
The schematic I sent you has colors and routing.
The reason for asking is that I noticed in the archives, that your car got body work done to the left side in April. Just wondering if the body shop got the wiring pinched or screwed up. I See that the left side was also assaulted by a geriatric type in some large piece of american iron, but you did not mention markers or front lamps as I recall.
If it were me, I would disconnect the battery, pull every bulb in the offended circuits, remove the bulb controller plug and ohm out the individual harnesses, looking for infinite resistence at the sockets.
Look at bulb controller harness socket pin 4 (going to left tail, left marker) and pin 12 (going to left brake light). With the bulbs out, neither should show any path to ground with an ohm meter. Put a lead on each and test if they show any continuity between them- they should not have any.
HTH
Greg
I'm probably just bending another nail here, but have you ohmed out the wiring harnesses to each lamp connector? Bulbs must be removed for test.
The schematic I sent you has colors and routing.
The reason for asking is that I noticed in the archives, that your car got body work done to the left side in April. Just wondering if the body shop got the wiring pinched or screwed up. I See that the left side was also assaulted by a geriatric type in some large piece of american iron, but you did not mention markers or front lamps as I recall.
If it were me, I would disconnect the battery, pull every bulb in the offended circuits, remove the bulb controller plug and ohm out the individual harnesses, looking for infinite resistence at the sockets.
Look at bulb controller harness socket pin 4 (going to left tail, left marker) and pin 12 (going to left brake light). With the bulbs out, neither should show any path to ground with an ohm meter. Put a lead on each and test if they show any continuity between them- they should not have any.
HTH
Greg