Windshield washer tank/line leak
09-30-2007, 11:02 PM
#1
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
Rennlist Member
Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
Thread Starter
Windshield washer tank/line leak
Well a new feature arrived today. Somewhere "up there" under the washer tank is a leak. The leak happens when the tank is filled up full or whenever the squirting is actuated.
I checked the WSM, which again proved to be pretty useless. Love the section on redirecting the headlamp washer nozzles. Who in samhell cares???
Anyone with experience in removing the washer fluid tank? Is is located behind the passenger wheel?
Before I go slogging in there and busting something, I thought I'd check with the BTDT crowd.
Thanks as always,
Tim
I checked the WSM, which again proved to be pretty useless. Love the section on redirecting the headlamp washer nozzles. Who in samhell cares???
Anyone with experience in removing the washer fluid tank? Is is located behind the passenger wheel?
Before I go slogging in there and busting something, I thought I'd check with the BTDT crowd.
Thanks as always,
Tim
10-01-2007, 12:28 AM
#2
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Tim--
I looked at the same symptoms Saturday on a local lister's car. The leaks-when-full syndrome is normal. There's a vent line from the top of the tank that runs up over the top of the charcoal cannister. The vent line is lower than the top of the filler neck, so trying to fill the tank up into the neck will always be a lost cause.
On our subject car here, the hoses have been home-brewed a bit, cut and spliced a lot, to the point where the only place thatwash water comes out reliably is a broken section of hose in the well at the base of the windshield. Running the washer causes water to run down through the vent, through the heater/AC box, and out onto the floor through the evaporator vent line in the middle of the car. The solution to our problm is replacemnt of al the hoses from the two pumps to the hood, the pass-ythrough fitting at the right side of the hood, and the hoses, tees and check valves inside the hood. Parts are pretty cheap, and there's maybe an hour of work to replace it all.
I looked at the same symptoms Saturday on a local lister's car. The leaks-when-full syndrome is normal. There's a vent line from the top of the tank that runs up over the top of the charcoal cannister. The vent line is lower than the top of the filler neck, so trying to fill the tank up into the neck will always be a lost cause.
On our subject car here, the hoses have been home-brewed a bit, cut and spliced a lot, to the point where the only place thatwash water comes out reliably is a broken section of hose in the well at the base of the windshield. Running the washer causes water to run down through the vent, through the heater/AC box, and out onto the floor through the evaporator vent line in the middle of the car. The solution to our problm is replacemnt of al the hoses from the two pumps to the hood, the pass-ythrough fitting at the right side of the hood, and the hoses, tees and check valves inside the hood. Parts are pretty cheap, and there's maybe an hour of work to replace it all.
10-01-2007, 02:07 AM
#3
If you do pull the pass. side aft splash shield...
Not sure on your year but the OB's seem to be filler neck crack prone.
Possibly due to aging, appears to be a line but turns out to be the 'neck'.
While you are in there there is a vacuum 'Y' splitter in the bundle that will,
no doubt, be in your way. It also cracks if not zip tied to the other lines.
The splitter is some kind of plastic and looks similar to the vacuum supply
line splitter that runs over to the brake booster located on the aft drivers side head.
Not sure on your year but the OB's seem to be filler neck crack prone.
Possibly due to aging, appears to be a line but turns out to be the 'neck'.
While you are in there there is a vacuum 'Y' splitter in the bundle that will,
no doubt, be in your way. It also cracks if not zip tied to the other lines.
The splitter is some kind of plastic and looks similar to the vacuum supply
line splitter that runs over to the brake booster located on the aft drivers side head.
10-01-2007, 03:21 AM
#4
Team Owner
for this remove the wheel and the well block off plate and then remove the rubber fill hose from both ends if either end (tank or fill tube)has a rusty metal insert this should be removed you can do this on the tank after you remove it from the car use a hair drier to heat the tank plastic and small set of needle nose pliers and a small screw driver, you should also consider replacing the fill spout with a new one and since its new the metal collar almost slides out after heating with the hair drier, the reason to remove these parts is to prevent the rust, it contaminates the lines and the rusty water will stain the paint, clog the washer motor and plug the squirters and check valves. The fill hose only needs moderate pressure from the clamp to seal, this is the top of the tank so usually there will be no fluid trying to leak past the hose clamp, and as Bob said there is also a overfill line so you can only make the tank so full. Every tank that i have cleaned out I have removed the metal collars, with no ill effects, i have done atleast 8 tanks, with the fill tubes as well.