Alright.. (deep breath) here we go again.
I've just got the 5spd back from a lot of work by the Porsche wrench - new clutch and the dash out for a lot of work on the heater/AC (replacement dash and pod fitted at the same time). The problem is that now the car is back on the road it is running quite badly (it was running fine before). Symptoms are a real lack of power, roughness and a feeling of bogging down, particularly at low revs. No smoke, no smells.
As the problem is due to the dealer's work I will drop the car back in there next week for them to rectify. However mainly due to you rennlist guys'n'gals I am getting the itch to wean myself away from the dealer and start doing some work on the cars myself! The first step is obviously to understand what's going wrong.
My initial thoughts were that the ECU just needed some miles to readjust after being disconnected but this made no difference. Next thought was that perhaps the octane loop had been connected during reassembly - it hadn't. Which leaves vacum problems which could mess with the timing as the most likley contender. I don't think it's a fuel issue as this wasn't touched. Apart from checking a few obvious vacum connections this is where I run out of steam
Do you think i'm on the right track? any ideas welcome!
Cheers <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Dave
I've just got the 5spd back from a lot of work by the Porsche wrench - new clutch and the dash out for a lot of work on the heater/AC (replacement dash and pod fitted at the same time). The problem is that now the car is back on the road it is running quite badly (it was running fine before). Symptoms are a real lack of power, roughness and a feeling of bogging down, particularly at low revs. No smoke, no smells.
As the problem is due to the dealer's work I will drop the car back in there next week for them to rectify. However mainly due to you rennlist guys'n'gals I am getting the itch to wean myself away from the dealer and start doing some work on the cars myself! The first step is obviously to understand what's going wrong.
My initial thoughts were that the ECU just needed some miles to readjust after being disconnected but this made no difference. Next thought was that perhaps the octane loop had been connected during reassembly - it hadn't. Which leaves vacum problems which could mess with the timing as the most likley contender. I don't think it's a fuel issue as this wasn't touched. Apart from checking a few obvious vacum connections this is where I run out of steam
Do you think i'm on the right track? any ideas welcome!
Cheers <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Dave
Three Wheelin'
Dave-
I used to be partial to vacuum problems, but now that I have successfully tracked a few down they are hard to come by. That would be my first guess- starting with the vacuum-actuated vent control box on the left side of the console. I think there is one main line into and four subs out. But you should be able to plug the main back in the engine compartment to see if the problem is a leak at the control box.
First, assuming your a/c is functioning, see if all the vent and a/c-heat controls work properly. If they do this is not likely to be the leak. If they do not, find the 4 way connector under the hood (left side) coming off of the brake boost. One line goes through the firewall, under the cowling and provides vacuum for that control box. Just plug it with tape or some such and start the car, if it still runs rough,....
Good luck,
Donald
I used to be partial to vacuum problems, but now that I have successfully tracked a few down they are hard to come by. That would be my first guess- starting with the vacuum-actuated vent control box on the left side of the console. I think there is one main line into and four subs out. But you should be able to plug the main back in the engine compartment to see if the problem is a leak at the control box.
First, assuming your a/c is functioning, see if all the vent and a/c-heat controls work properly. If they do this is not likely to be the leak. If they do not, find the 4 way connector under the hood (left side) coming off of the brake boost. One line goes through the firewall, under the cowling and provides vacuum for that control box. Just plug it with tape or some such and start the car, if it still runs rough,....
Good luck,
Donald
Three Wheelin'
P.S.- If plugging that line solves the roughness, get back to me & I'll be specific on access to the control box. It's a piece of cake.
Donald
Donald
Thanks for the pointers Donald. Sorry for not getting back to you sooner but I haven't had any time at my computer.
Anyway it seems that most of my troubles were coming from air leaks on the intake. I've reseated and tightened everything up and it has made a big big difference.
It's just as well really, as I didn't find the 4-way connector you were aiming me towards! I'm going to dig further in this weekend.
I have also just received a new set of Magnacore ignition wires and new plugs which I will fit tonight. They will make the engine bay a bit shinier if nothing else.
Cheers
DaveW
Anyway it seems that most of my troubles were coming from air leaks on the intake. I've reseated and tightened everything up and it has made a big big difference.
It's just as well really, as I didn't find the 4-way connector you were aiming me towards! I'm going to dig further in this weekend.
I have also just received a new set of Magnacore ignition wires and new plugs which I will fit tonight. They will make the engine bay a bit shinier if nothing else.
Cheers
DaveW