aircooler

Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone could offer me some insight into a problem with my shark (MY 87 S4 auto, 60KM).

I have just done some major work :

new Timing belt
new water pump
rebuilt the tensioner
all new accessory belts
injectors professionally serviced
valve covers and intake removed and painted
new flappy actuator
new heater valve
new rad
engine oil and filter
trans oil and filter
diff oil change
new plugs
new wires
new caps and rotors
new air filter
new air pump filter
new fuel filter

Now that I have had my fun, I find that it is hard to start. It does eventually (with some peddle) but then there is a VERY ROUGH idle.

When I was checking each cylinder for spark (they all had spark) I noticed that only CYL 234 were firing. NO FIRE IN 1 5678!

I then checked power to the fuel injectors on a couple of the dead cylinders and there was power.

Arrggg! I have no idea what the culprit is. Is there anyone who has had a similar problem or a good idea as to what is the trouble?

Thanks Mike

Mark

could it be that infamous "brown wire" on one of the coils?

aircooler

Hello Mark,

I'm not aware of the "infamous brown wire", but if one of the coils were not working, wouldn't I find that all of its associated cylinders would be dead???

BTW the car starts no problem now (no need for peddle), but no change in rough idle.

Mike

Randy V

Hey Canuck, how about a bit more description in the title... <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />

Where in Ontario are you? I'm from Sault Ste. Marie.

aircooler

OK..... HELP, HELP, HELP, HELP!

mike

aircooler

Hello Randy,

I'm north of Toronto in Caledon, beautiful day here in Ontairo today.

What moved you down to "Insane Diego, California"?

Mike

kaamacat

watercooler.

Any slight chance you've got plug wires swapped. (not to be insulting but had it happen to me last year on and engine. I swore up-and-down, checked 2x, guess I really needed my glasses).

Bob

aircooler

Bob

No offense at all! I have checked a couple of times, but I will check again.

Thanks Mike

Steve Cattaneo

Was the engine running before all of the work? How do you know cly. # 1, 5,6,7,8 are not firing, what method did you use to confirm?

aircooler

Hello Steve

The engine was running a little rough before the work as well, but maybe not as much. When I purchased the car, though it was in nice shape, it was obvious that some BS service had been done by the PO. A lot of the vacuum lines were no longer attached or attached to the wrong component. I attributed the rough idle to that, and the need for some serious service and TLC.

I don't think CYL 1,5,6,7,8, are firing because (please forgive my lake of sophistication) when I pull the plug wire from the cylinder I can clearly hear there is no drop in engine RPM. I can also hear the spark arcing to the top of the plug as I initially pull it away.

BTW I rechecked my wires and they are correct. But as I reflect on that....they are correct to the positions of the original plugs. I then tried to look up a chart in the WSM (CD), but I cannot find a chart/schematic/description of how they should be.

This is how I presently have them :

Block
4______ 8
3______ 7
2______ 6
1______ 5

left cap_________right cap

4 6 7 1___________5 2 3 8

Can anyone kindly pass a reference along for plug wire connections?

Thanks again,
Mike

Steve Cattaneo

The firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Left cap is 3-8-5-2 right 1-4-6-7.

A safer way to check for spark is with a timing light or spark checker. This way you can safely check every individual sparkplug wire with it connected to the plug. By grounding a plug wire, there is a chance of a voltage spike to the controller. Since the LH and EZK are interconnected you can fry both.

If you want to do a cylinder/RPM drop test, just pull the injector wire from the cylinder being tested and with a helper have him check the cars tach for a drop in RPMs. Check and clean your engine ground wires, especially MP IX, MP III and MP VIII.

Recheck the wires

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

WallyP

The decal that I have (P/N 928 006 105 03) shows the following, looking down at the top of the engine:

4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5

4671 5238

aircooler

Hello Steve,

Thanks again for your reply.

If I could impose on you for one more question/clarification.

You wrote : "Left cap is 3-8-5-2 right 1-4-6-7."

Is that drivers side cap 3-8-5-2, pass side 1-4-6-7 (These positions when looking at engine from front of car).

If so these positions are very different from what I had when I got the car, and would explain my dilemma.

Mike

Steve Cattaneo

Wally,

The cap firing order is from volume Vl at page 97-275 of the work shop manual.

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

aircooler

Hi Wally,

Thanks for your comment. That is the way my wires are currently set up.

Do you have any tips or advice for me as to what to check?

I have not compression tested the drivers side cylinders (I get no indication of firing from any of these), and at this point I am fearing a bad head gask on that side.

Best regards, and thanks for your previous comments,
Mike