I'm finding on my 82 that my brake lights are only coming on when I really get on the brakes. There are times that the lights don't come on at all under light braking. I looked under there to see if I could find a manual switch tied to the pedal, but there isn't one. From the manuals it appears the manual switched didn't appear until 84. Anyone know how and where to adjust this? I couldn't find it in the manuals (except from the 84 on pg. 46-10a). Anyone BTDT?

I just know this one is going to be a pain in the A$$! <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" /> <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />

 

Andrew - The brake light switches are fluid pressure type switches that screw into the master brake cylinder (there are 2 of them, 1 for each diagonal circuit). I had the same symptoms as you, brake lights did not illuminate, brake pressure warning light appears, central warning light flashing (you'll need to disconnect and reconnect the battery to clear the central warning light). I ended up replacing the master cylinder (it came with new pressure switches already installed. I beleive that you may be able to replace just the switches. I would recomend replacing the entire master cylinder as mine had a leak in the rear seal which was not noticeable until I removed the master cylinder from the booster. It is a PITA job but not as bad as the clutch master cylinder. Good luck!

 

Had the same problem but mine was caused by two different switches. It is about a 20 minute job to replace BOTH switches. New switches can be obtained from the Big 3, The Parts Bin (generic) or (sometimes) your local auto parts store.

Dennis

 

Thanks for the info guys.

Dennis, do I have to remove the MC to get at them? Haven't been down there to look yet. Any tips/tricks? Much appreciated. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

Andrew, I don't think that you have to pull the master cylinder to remove them. I replaced my MC and the new one had new ones on it. If you need some to get you by e-mail me, I saved the old ones. Not sure why... Maybe for this reason. My car is also an 82 White and I am near Charlevoix Mi. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Chucker
1982 928 White

 

Andrew,

The MC doesn't have to be remved to replace them. On my 78 they were both at the bottom of the MC but yours may vary. You should have a three wire plug going to each of them. Prior to replacing them you may want to make sure the electrical connections are clean.

Dennis

 

Chucker and Dennis:

THanks for the info. We had our mini frenzy tonight in Roayl Oak (Detroit) MI. What a great time. One of the guys, Bob, has done a corvette LT1 engine swap. It looks awsome, but the real benefit was I was able to see his MC (MY '81?). Anyway, looks just like mine. I see where you switch these out. Doesn't look real hard.

Chucker, I'll take you up on that offer. If you don't have one of my CD's maybe we could trade??? Let me know offline.

One other quick question... do I need to drain the fluid from the brake resevoir? and will I need to bleed the brakes after I'm done? TIA. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

Andrew,
For a first time effort which always takes longer:
1. Remove air filter cover
2. Get a bungee cord or string and GENTLY pull the left-driver side air tube toward the front of the engine and tie it off. Not to far, just enough to give you some working room.
3. Examine the small 4way vacuum line connector
-for future reference- disconnect in a manner that will get the lines out of your way. I looked for dried out tubing and tucked one tube up high and the rest behind the MC. If you plan on taking the small, blue, one-way, check valve off make sure it goes on the same way. If you want to check the valve for serviceability: Clean it off and blow from the MC/Vav.booster side -it should pass air, blow from the other side and no air should pass. BTW One of the ends on the white plastic 4 way connector is actually blocked -dead end- don't plug that blocked end into a line!
4.Remove the large Vacuum line from as close to the Vac.booster as you can get. Should be two(2) flat tip screws. Be careful as there is a plastic step down 'T' to a small vac. line that you could break. Look for it, pull the small lineand remember where it goes. Tag it. Then look over to the intake spyder. Between the last two intake runners - I think near the rubber connector boots - is a large Vacuum line, if you trace it back you will see a plastic 45 degree connector that splices two lines together from underneath about halfway back on the same two intake runners -metal-. You want to disconnect the line near the rubber intake boots. There are two flat tip screws to be loosened. Then twist and pull. Be careful of that 45 degree plastic connector.
Move the hose out of the way and tie it back.
5.At this point if you look down at the MC forward of the resivior you will see the forward switch the three wires Dennis mentioned run into a boot. The boot covers a fixed, three bladed plug end. Push it down from different sides until it pops off, then find a place to stuff the boot/connector. Right about now you may be wondering how you can possibly work around the brake lines, other stuff, and a inner fenderwell that is practically flush with the sitches from any angle. It can be done...I can palm a basketball in each hand and go walking,BIG HANDS.
I did it so can you.
6. If you don't have a crow's foot socket to remove the switches with you can either bend an appropriate sized wrench to get at the hex bottom
of the switch - they are kinda' like short fat sparkplugs - or buy a thin short crescent wrench that opens to about 1 1/8 inch. WalMart sells a Stanley #85-764 adjustable wrench (a crescent)
that works! It's less than a 1/4" wide an about 7 1/2 inches long. When you get the first one out (the forward one) attack the second one as you will have more room, install in reverse order-.
Get a trash bag under the MC and fender as there will be a little fluid loss. Be real careful about covering the fenders ect. as brake fluid will ruin your day. A pail of warm soapy water and a wash cloth might be a good idea. And wash your hand s before getting behind the wheel especially if it's leather.
John S. and Pattycakes <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />

 

Like that wasn't long enough...
There is a small, maybe 6 or 8 mm, hex screw on the side of the MC body below the resivior. I think it's the bleeder. There may be two hex bolts, one for each switch but I don't know for sure.
In my case I didn't drain the resivoir or bleed afterwards. There was a small loss of fluid...garbage bag, soapy water and paper towels were on standby though. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

Wow! Thanks a whole heaping bunch! If I can't follow that, then I may just be as "Good for nothing" as my wife tells me! Well, she doesn't say that to my face... yet! THanks again for your help. I'll post a write up later when I have a chance to do this small operation. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

I just wanted to say thanks again to Chucker for the parts and to John S for the instructions. The operation was a success! I finally got around to doing this fairly simple proceedure. My lights now function the way they should. It was a tight fit, but luckily I had an adjustable crescent that fit like a charm. All told it took about an hour. The old one's were really on there and it took a bit of grunting before they realized who was in charge. (Don't tell the wife!)Thanks again to everyone. <img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

P.s. and to our Mexican friends, happy Cinco de Mayo - okay now I can have a margarita! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

 

Andrew I'm glad that they worked for you. <img border="0" alt="[jumper]" title="" src="graemlins/jumper.gif" /> The CD has been lots of fun to look at.

 

Bravo!
I'd gladly, take some credit but I just pick brains -particularly Dennis Wilson's (tastes like chicken )-, archives and the Nichols site.
You'd be suprised how much info is just sitting here.
Find any 'new'places to clean?