Nicole

I noticed that the lower outer window seal on the drivers side door is cracking. It will have to be replaced soon.

How is this done? Does the glass have to come out? How about the window trim?

I'd like to replace the window guides at the same time, since they start scratching the window tinting foil. I have never seen what these guides look like or how they can be accessed...

Also, when taking off the door panel, where can I disconnect the wires, so I can take the panel all the way off?

Your input is greatly appreciated!

Jay Wellwood

Nicole-

In as far as the window guides are concerned - not that bad of a job. I followed the advice from Dan Brindle who documented this procedure on his web page....

"http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/new_page_1.htm"

The guides (new) are about $40 a pair from 928 Intl. Also, note that they are unique to each door as well as top and bottom as well. Took me about 2 hours from start to finish (I'd been in the doors before so this may not be representative of actual time).

hth-

Randy V

Nicole, here's a good tutorial (with pics) for door panel removal of later model years.

Door Panel Removal Procedure

2V4V

Nicole,

You do not need to remove the glass to change any of the seals, though you do have to roll down the window. Most require pulling the door panel - so do whatever your budget allows while you're in there. It is not complicated, just tedious to pull the door panel.

There are 2 different things that can cause scratching of your tint - the 2 felt guides near the top of the door, and then there are the 2 plastic slides that guide the window up and down on the tube in the door. (You'll see what I mean when you remove the door panel.)

The felt wears off the guides causing direct friction, the slides wear out and allow the window to move around too much.

Once you get the panel off, it should be pretty apparent how everything works. If you have more questions, I did my driver's door not that long ago, so I do remember most of it.

Greg

Randy V

Uh, Nicole - have you seen these replies to your request for assistance?

John Struthers

Nicole,
There was a guy on the 928OC board. I believe he was a Major stationed in Germany.
He amongst other things posted a detailed replacement of the seals and felt strips along with some does and don't's. I think I saved the collection of posts and will post it tomorrow if I did. His handle was similar to MOSS928 on this board if you go looking.
later,
John S. and Pattycakes

Nicole

It was nice weather this afternoon, so I decided to take the beast out for a spin - the first time in three weeks. I drove accross the Bay to DEVEK, to order the needed parts.

Jim came out to look at my window, and told me that it has too much play. So I ordered the outer seal, the felt guides and the other two plastic guides. Fortunately, they had another car in the shop, with a similar problem. So I was able to see what all this stuff looks like. It'll be a pain to fix, but I'll give it a try anyway.

As always, it was worth the drive to DEVEK. I always learn something new when I'm over there. And their service has always been superb!

Maybe I shouldn't have threatened Mark Thomas to bring them the pieces, if I can't figure things out... ;-)

Thanks everybody for your help!

John V

Nicole,

Have you done this job yet? I remove the outside lower windoe seal\wipers to paint the car and getting them back in is prooving to be alot harder than removing them. I've tried just rolling down the window and no go! I can't get the lower edge of the seal to catch because the glass tilts the rubber away from the clipping surface. My next step is to undo the regulator so that the glass drops further into the door allowing better access to bottom of the seal.

That still leaves me with another bigger problem. On the top edge of the seals, there is a little nipple that is supposed to snap into a groove along the lower window trim peice. I've tried everything from lubrication to brute force and it just won't snap in! It doesn't look like I have paint build up in there but I'm stumped. I'm going to try to order new seals to see if it's just my rubber thats hardened. Did you buy new ones??? How much were they?

Thanks in advance...
John V

Nicole

Hi John:

I bought a new rubber seal, felt guides and the two plastic guides - almost $200 for the parts. No, I have not yet attempted to do this - I'm waiting for a warm day when I have nothing better to do than getting my hands dirty...

I understand what you are saying about getting the rubber into the groove. I have replaced the upper window seal on the other side, and had to fight with a similar issue. I used dish soap to lubricate the materials, but still had to force it in with a small screwdriver. This is probably not the right way to do it, but I could not figure out how else to get it done.

Let me know what you find out!

John V

Nicole,

I saw that 928 Intl. has the outer seals for $110 per side!! I hope I can do better than that! The "almost $200" you spent.. was that for both sides or just 1?

Also, found a write up on this job at the Mr. Nichols site. I read it and it talks about the pains of inserting the upper lip, but it didn't talk about clipping the lower lip into place (does it go on first or second?? do you need to drop the glass to gain access??)

I'm sure I'll be waiting for he parts for another week anyway and then I'll try my patience and let you know how I make out. Please do the same if you decide to get your hands dirty.

Best

John

Nicole

I think the outer seal alone was $96 at DEVEK. What added up in the end were the felt guides, the two other guides, and the California VAT of 8%

jpitman

Nicole, John V -
I have done both outer glass seals, with new ones. The first was USD110 from 928intl, the second I got while home in Oz for AUD110=USD55 - go figure. Check the price of the top felt part the glass seats into - USD150 when last I looked, and looked away!
Basically, with glass down, lubricate metal grooved part (like a flattend C) rubber is going into (soapy water, armorall etc), start one side of rubber 'ear' into the top groove, and persuade other side in by rolling the handle of a small screwdriver, or some round object ~ 1" dia, over the outside of the rubber, at an angle to the door edge. Its harder to describe than to do - stand at the door, and try to visualize it. Once you have one end of the rubber with both sides into the two grooves, slide it fully to the end, and continue feeding top 'ear' into its groove, rolling bottom into its groove with roller thingy. The lubrication will enable you to slide the whole thing enough, bit by bit, to get the rear kicked up end to meet the top part neatly, and get the kick-up part engaged. Somebody else passed this technique to me, but forget who - check the archives.
Also note that I bought new nylon pieces for the glass to post fittings, and one lower left hand piece, correct part number, was actually a Right hand unit! Will return it one day.
JP

John V

JP,

that makes sense... great job describing how to get the lower lip (and upper lip) into place. Now I can see that you could do this without droppong the window! Do you know of any other sources for the seals??? $100 per side feels quite violating. $55 is reasonable!

Thanks
John

jpitman

John,
If you want to reverse a trend (Oz 928'ers buying parts from US) by buying from Oz, go to landsharkoz (Oz 928 site), locate a mail from Eddy Sain, and see if he can get you the same price he did for me, and ship it to you. Or find a friend in Oz to send/bring it to you. I also got window nylon pieces for $5, exhaust hanger rubbers for around $2 from Eddy, so many parts are cheaper there than US, although Eddy's getting VERY good discounts from his supplier in Adelaide.
Re the nylon guides, somebody (Captn Earl?)posted that they simplified this fix by just running a cable tie around the post and the base of the window brackets, and tightened it until the rattles stopped - 5c a unit, no major dismantling or disconnection of the glass - try it.
jp

TJQuill

JP's advice sounds similar to that I recently heard from Chris at German Auto Art in Santa Monica who had recently done his own window seals. He described it as terrible and time consuming, and said that if anyone ever showed up and wanted his shop to do the job, they would turn them away because it was that bad. That said, maybe it will go better for you. If you want more advice, I'm sure Chris would be happy to walk you through it. He's at service@germanautoart.com or 310-450-2266.