New (to me) 1982 won't start
10-04-2007, 02:25 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
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I paid $75 for the Fox and Hound unit from an Electronics Supply house. Probaby the most expsnsive place to buy things on the planet.
Harbor Freight has a unit for $20.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94181
The ignition switch on these cars can be problematic. The contacts wear and then depending on the position of the key funny things happen. One common problem is starting the car and not have the headlights work. Wiggle the key into another position and magically the headlights pop up.
Starting on a project like this calls for a methodical approach. Start by cleaning all the gound points, the fuse panel and the battery cables. Don't forget the cable going from the engine to the frame. Move on to changing rhe ignition switch and lubing all the switches with some DeOxIt. Take off the front engine harness and check it carefully for age and corrosion. If the covering is hard split it open, inspect the wires and recover it with some shrink tube. The plug at the firewall has soldered connections. These sometimes cause problems that a little reheating can cure. Make sure you do not mix up the order of the wires. With age they begin to look to be all the same color.
Use Scotchbrite and some Dielectric grease on all the exposed electrical connections. This is time consuming, but in the long run will pay many dividend. Another place to check is for bad and multiple stereo and alarm installations. I have never seen one done right.
Good Luck
Dan the Pod Guy
Harbor Freight has a unit for $20.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94181
The ignition switch on these cars can be problematic. The contacts wear and then depending on the position of the key funny things happen. One common problem is starting the car and not have the headlights work. Wiggle the key into another position and magically the headlights pop up.
Starting on a project like this calls for a methodical approach. Start by cleaning all the gound points, the fuse panel and the battery cables. Don't forget the cable going from the engine to the frame. Move on to changing rhe ignition switch and lubing all the switches with some DeOxIt. Take off the front engine harness and check it carefully for age and corrosion. If the covering is hard split it open, inspect the wires and recover it with some shrink tube. The plug at the firewall has soldered connections. These sometimes cause problems that a little reheating can cure. Make sure you do not mix up the order of the wires. With age they begin to look to be all the same color.
Use Scotchbrite and some Dielectric grease on all the exposed electrical connections. This is time consuming, but in the long run will pay many dividend. Another place to check is for bad and multiple stereo and alarm installations. I have never seen one done right.
Good Luck
Dan the Pod Guy
10-04-2007, 08:27 AM
#17
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I am definitely putting an overhaul of the wiring on my 'to do ' list. Someone did install an aftermarket head unit, and it is a very suspect looking wiring mess.
In the meantime I found out that my main issue as far as starting goes is that I am losing manifold vaccum in a big way (the trap door doesn't even budge when the car is being turned over). when I manually manipulate the trap door, I can get it to start and run.
Thanks for all the good advice on the electrics. That is getting done right after I eliminate this intake leak.
In the meantime I found out that my main issue as far as starting goes is that I am losing manifold vaccum in a big way (the trap door doesn't even budge when the car is being turned over). when I manually manipulate the trap door, I can get it to start and run.
Thanks for all the good advice on the electrics. That is getting done right after I eliminate this intake leak.
06-02-2008, 10:47 AM
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The final resolution to the starting issue was to replace all of the intake seals and vacuum lines. Once I did that, she started up with a little difficulty and some starting fluid.
Once it was starting, i discovered that it had a major overheating issue.
See this thread for that.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/383618-water-pump-or.html
The final resolution was to replace the water pump. The bearing was destroyed, and the pump was siezing. Also, the timing belt was stretched and had jumped a tooth, which explained the difficulty starting and poor running.
One timing belt and water pump later (did this job yesterday afternoon) and it is running great now. Amazing what moving coolant does for a car
Once it was starting, i discovered that it had a major overheating issue.
See this thread for that.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/383618-water-pump-or.html
The final resolution was to replace the water pump. The bearing was destroyed, and the pump was siezing. Also, the timing belt was stretched and had jumped a tooth, which explained the difficulty starting and poor running.
One timing belt and water pump later (did this job yesterday afternoon) and it is running great now. Amazing what moving coolant does for a car
