reptileis

I recently rplaced the hose that runs between the master and the slave, using doestic parts adapted to European fitiings, and ran new metal tubing.
The car worked fine for a couple days, then... as she sat warming up in the driveway, the pedal again shot straight to the floor. A while later the pedal returned with some pressure to it, but it feels as though there is a mechanical hinderance to it's action. When I dfepress it it almost feels that Im pushing something out of the way of pushing past something.

Any thoughts here???

History to date: owned car for 4 months- drove it 25 wonderful miles total, towed 16 miles. PO let car sit for months, and never maintained a thing. <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" /> <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" /> <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />

Chris Lockhart

Not that I'm any kind of expert here, but I'm wondering if somehow when the pedal went to the floor, the shaft from the slave's piston to the clutch release lever might have gotten cocked or something from the release in tension/pressure?? Just something to look for. Should be easy to check through the inspection hole in the bottom of the clutch cover. I'm wondering what caused it to go to the floor. I'm assuming that you bled the slave VERY good??? It can be a b*tch to get all the air out. Not sure what else it could be, other than something haywire with the clutch master. Good luck getting it all figured out and fixed. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Normy

-I recently changed the brake fluid in my '85 S2.

One of the points that needs to be bled is the clutch slave cylinder. I attached a plastic tube and bottle to the loose bleeder, and returned to the cockpit to pump the clutch pedal. I pushed it down, felt it develop some resistance...and then it seemed to move the firewall by itself!

I wound up on hands and knees, pumping the pedal with my hand. Logic tells me that it should have moved smoothly to the firewall, and stayed there, but it seemed to have this strange reaction each time. For the life of me I cannot figure out what force pushed the pedal toward the firewall, but I bet it is the same situation you are getting into.

Occasionally, my car's clutch pedal will not come all the way back to the fully released position- it seems to hang up halfway, and I don't believe the clutch is fully released. I'm puzzled about this one, but haven't had the time to take it apart to find out why-

Normy!

reptileis

Yes , I did bleed the hell out of the system. it took two guys, me and my mech, about an hour to do.

But, I could check it again. <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Normy

-One thing that I've heard is that the shaft that the clutch plates travel back and forth on needs to be carefully lubricated. Perhaps you can try pulling the clutch cover off and checking it out...maybe the shaft is dry or scored or something...

Whatever you find, please let me know, as it sounds like my problem too.

Normy~

Steve Cattaneo

Did you lose any fluid, ck. for leaks? Power bleed the system, when you open the bleed screw, are you getting air or a steady stream or fluid?

Ck. the master cly. Pushrod on the pedal, make sure it’s adjusted properly also ck. the lock nuts.

Pull the inspection cover ck. the clutch release lever, make sure the ball stud is not lose, if the lever is updated ck. the bushing on the ball stud.

Make the steel line is not touching the exhaust it will boil the fluid and you will lose your pedal when hot.

Last resort changes, the master and slave cly.


Steve C
The great white
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

reptileis

I just rebuilt the master last month. Get the kit through the proshop at Schucks auto parts.

Get this... I hear a small vac leak whistling from beneath the spider body somewhere- It becomes much more pronounced when I hold down the clutch. Any ideas??? I will post this as a new topic on the list.

WallyP

There is a helper spring on the top of the clutch pedal that helps push the pedal down. This is a stout compression spring, with an adjustment to set the pressure.

Look above and behind (toward the rear of the car) the clutch pedal. Make sure that the spring isn't broken.

John V

On my '81, the clutch pedal has an adjustable spring assembly that is designed to help you depress the clutch (so it's not too heavy). That spring assembly cams over about midway through the stroke of the pedal and will push or pull the pedal either up or down on its own if there is no hydraulic pressure in the system. If the system has no pressure, the pedal will want to stay up by itself via this spring assembly until it's depressed about half way. BTW during the initial press to the midpoint, the spring will make it feel like your building pressure then it just releases and pedal will snap to the floor. Same sensation when you pull it back... it will build pressure to that mid point and snap back up.

One thought I have is on the hose you adapted... is it approved for use with pressurized brake fluid? Not all rubber hose is and could degrade after hours, days or weeks. If it is and your sure that both the master and slave cylinders are good and you have no leaks, I'd try the following.

1. Make sure the shaft that goes between the clutch pedal and master cyl. has about .5mm clearance (free play). I physically take off the master boot under the dash and confirm the cylinders piston is fully retracted and make sure the shaft can move slightly before even hitting the piston.

2. Use a pressurized bleeder to bleed the system. I've found that a mighty vac style or even attaching a hose to the nipple and pumping can lead to air being sucked into the slave cyl. around the bleeder screw threads.

3. After you bleed all the air out, try it. If its still not perfect, use the slave cylinder to push any air pockets back up the line into the reservoir. I do this by removing the lid on the fluid reservoir and makeing sure its NOT too full. Drape a rag over the opening to prevent any splash back or in case the fluid level raises too much. With the line attached to the slave, remove it so you have access to the shaft. Press the shaft as far into the slave as it will go and allow it to retun but very slowly. Re-install it and check the reservoir. Fill and cap as needed and pump the system.

reptileis

Great advice folks! thanks. I'll check it out when the mid march snow stops falling (WTF?)

<img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" />