RyanPerrella

the silicon gasket is particular about going on dry.

As for the nick on the crank, whats the best course of action to fix it. I woudl think Emery cloth to get rid of any possible bur, and then would it need to be filled at all, or just left alone and if its smooth would be fine?

IcemanG17

Ryan
Keith put a main seal in his 82 (not sure) that leaked right after he put it in....I think he has a write up about it......Bill Ball devised a way to change the RMS without pulling the engine..... From what you describe it sure sounds like a RMS to me....but the valley drip down is possible too?

RyanPerrella

the valley is clean and spotless. I thought that was a possibility as well, but when i replaced the ISV and the TPS that was not the case. The leak had been an issue prior to pulling the intake. Once the intake was pulled i could clearly see that the valley was dry adn one of the oil lines under there was the cause of the leak. I have since moved onto the next idea...RMS.

I am really curious though to see if anyone else had any issues with the case halves leaking. Again, Ive never heard of this. I had thought this was one of the areas of that car thats not troublesome and that you would refer to as bulletproof. I have no other leaks around the case halves though, to curiously get one in the vacinity of the RMS sounds suspicious too.

I wonder if its worth adding some flourescent dye to the oil and running the car for a bit and going back with a black light and seeing clearly where the leak is coming from. Has anyone ever done that before with the engine oil?

RyanPerrella

flywheel isnt out of the car yet but i wanted to bump this topic

RyanPerrella

Finally have the clutch and flywheel out:

I am really kind of annoyed at myself, this ended up taking all of 90 minutes to get the car up on stands, get the lower cover off loosen the cat's tto have access to the rear clamping bolt, remove the pressure plate and clutch and unbolt the flywheel. Of course that 90 minutes was spread out over 2 plus weeks. ANYWAY

Here are pics of what I found.

RyanPerrella

I pulled the seal and was hoping that i would see wear on the side that runs alongside the crank possibly from a bur on the crankshaft. But i see no such wear. To be honest, aside from the gouge in the seal that i made in order to remove it, the seal looks identical to the new one in hand. This is frusterating. The last thing I want to do is install the seal and have this happen again.

But from the pictures it appears obvious that the leak is coming from the RMS. Maybe this seal was "slightly off" and dosent work properly, I dont know. RMS's are not an issue with 928's. What could i have done wrong on installing this one to have caused a leak?

I had done an RMS before on the old engine and had no issues at all, why is this one giving me problems?

RyanPerrella

The only thing that I can think of is that the spring when came off the lip at some point when i was installing the thing. But that seems unlikely because because the seal goes straight on there isnt anything that could catch the spring when installing that i can think of that could knock the spring off its lip. I would like to have an understanding of what caused the leak before installing the new seal.

Any ideas?

RyanPerrella

does no one have an opinion tonight?

Charley B

I'm still trying to decide if the nick you mentioned could be a factor, and if so, what you should do about it.

RyanPerrella

The nick is actually on the block side of the seal not the crank. I know i mentioned it could be on the crank but if i had nicked the crank i would have fixed it on assembly. I didn't remember before, i guess I was trying to come up with a reason for the leak in the first place and thought that could be it. The crank is pretty hard, i know you can nick it if you put enough force into it, but for anyone that was ever curious, the 928 cranks are pretty stout peices.

The nick on the block side of the seal is at about 7 o'clock and was minor. I ignored it before as i didnt think oil would leak out of that side of the seal. And based on where the oil is pooling (right under the crank snub) it seems to be from the the inner sealing surface. WHY? Well thats the $10,000 question.

RyanPerrella

also, ive run my finger on the crank stub and the block surface to try and feel anything that would catch my skin, and it all feels smooth. Perhaps the first seal was faulty, or somehow the oil retention spring got dislodged on assembly.

Mrmerlin

the only thing i could suggest is to use the flat side of a paint stick to help drive the new oil seal into the block a few fractions more than flush this will give the seal area a new place to run, simply place the stick agains the seal and tap it in with a hammer all the way around the seal you will see after you do this how thw stick will compress where it is hammered against the block and will be a bit thicker where it touches the seal this should drive the seal a bit further into the seal bore, make sure you use a bit of oil on the seal to crank area before you try to intall the seal

dr bob

What Stan said, plus you really need to make sure the seal is installed straight and square to the crank. The seal lip really neads to wipe a narrow ring on the crank, and if it's at all cocked in there it will weep. There are of course some interesting main seal install methods. Generally, I go hunting for a stub of plastic pipe to use if I don't have a big enough socket to use as a driver. There's a good case for using som sealant on the outer part of the seal at the block if you are at all concerned about the surface quality there. Almost anything will work there. Since almost all of it will be wiped off the seal rim on installation anyway, put some in the recess in the block before you drive the seal in. If the end of the crank is sharp-edged, put a piece of packing tape around the end to avoid cutting the lip on the seal on install. Just tape over the corner so you can get the tape out. Be sure to get the tape out...

Imo000

Maybe the nick on the block is preventing the outter edge of the seal from sealing. Wher eis the nick, on the top?

Herman K

Examine the old seals contact lip with a magnifying glass 8-10X power. I've been surprised many times and found imperfections that way. A seal that's not seated right can develop minor flat spots that the eyes can't see. If you suspect the seal than you must examine it this way.


Good luck.

1994 GTS 5 spd