unit

Hi,
So i would like to have a look at checking my timing belt.
Is there an easy way to check the tension and have a look at the belt condition.
Also if it needs to be tightened is that hard?and how??

I intend on replacing in the next month but im paranoid about it.
It was replaced 60000 km ago and about 5 years.
Light is coming on but am told it was checked by porsche centre and its
a sender fault?? Why didnt they fix it?? i dont know!!
Anyway i cant relax driving the car so i would like to have a little check.

When i get all the parts ill have my mechanic mate help me with the t/belt, w/pump job.

Thanks in advance

Sam

Lizard928

the sender fault is believable, and could be a broken wire, or could be a broken steel strap,

the belt is good for 60,000 MILES so 60,000km is no issue, however 5 years is getting up there.

Just have the tension checked again and if it is still within spec you should be good.

worf928

The tension warning system is very simple - see these diagrams of the belt tension warning system. You should be able to check the continuity of the circuit while you are CHECKING YOUR TIMING BELT and TENSION.

(Note, that you can check your tension without removing the upper radiator hose as Tony's procedure shows and that the "Kempf" gauge is a tried and true inexpensive alternative to the factory gauge.)

unit

Thank you.

fraggle

Is there any sneaky fast ways to get in there and check the tension? I always end up pulling way too much apart and it takes forever.

UKKid35

60,000 miles is only a realist belt change interval if you are absolutely certain that every component in the cam belt system is in perfect condition. Since you have actually been told that the sender has a fault (whether or not that is true) you can assume that other parts in the system are not in perfect condition, and so most people would recommend a belt change interval nearer 40,000 miles or perhaps 60,000km.

John Welch

My light started coming on recently. I was terrified to attempt, but couldn't afford to have someone else do it, so I dove in, only to find that it wasn't really that hard at all, so I say go for it. Just get the Kempf tool to measure the tension.

However, the light came on because the tension really was loose. I'm not sure I would ignore it without checking the tension first.

Good luck,

UKKid35

Don't forget to ask yourself why the belt is loose.

Some people have suggested that the belt only stretches twice, once after fitting and once before failing.

davek9

I have not found too many “sneaky fast” ways to do anything on a 928!

Andrew and I checked and did a retention on my ’85 32 v in about 30 to 40 minutes.

1. First on the ‘86 on down Remove the upper fan shroud and passenger side(US) flex plastic air tube.
2. Remove the Passenger side distributor cap (you will need to disco the coil lead and we removed the center two plug wires to facilitate getting to the top screw/bolt that holds the cap on), the other two on the sides are accessible.
3. Move the cap out of the way.
4. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold on the passenger side belt cover (one on the top near fender the other is in the center).
5. Rotate the Engine to 0 TDC via the crank bolt, the cam gear notch should line up w/the mark on the back belt cover too (only turn it clockwise – towards the drivers side(US)).
6. Check the tension w/ the correct tool of your choice, if adjustment is required rotate engine several times and re-check at 0 TDC.

Note:
We had to remove the dipstick to get the belt cover out, as it was in the way (did not have to unbolt it).
Also it was easer with two as an extra paid of hands to hold the upper water hose up and out of the way helped and also with turning the crank bolt to align w/mark.

I found w/my TBWP job that the belt looked great but was not tracking very well.
All my pulleys and gears were shot!
These old/warn moving parts surly would have made the belt fail w/o much of a warning.

It is not hard to do, good luck,

Dave K

dr bob

Unit--

Ask your Porsche agent if they are willing to guarantee that the sensor is failed and your belt won't snap. My guess is no, and those "experts" aren't willing to stand behind the diagnosis you should hardly be expected to stand in front of it. Bottom line: replace the belt now.

There's an interesting thread on a broken belt, one that followed just a couple flashes of the tension warning. The warning can come from a loose belt, a dry tensioner, and/or wear on any of the rollers and bearings that carry the belt. It could come from a defective "sensor" but the sensor itself is very simple. About the only way it would fail is if the strap or the wire is broken. Each of those is easily visible with the right side (driver side on your down-under car) cam belt cover removed. If the sensor really is the only culprit, are you ready to drive the car with essentially a blind eye towards the belt? It's akin to pulling the wires from the oil pressure and coolant temp sensors. I'm never lucky on this stuff, so I tend to do more PM and less disaster fixing. At least that's what I tell myself regularly.

leperboy

When I've done it, I have also had to loosen the passenger side ignition coil to give me enough room to remove the passenger side TB cover. That would go between steps 3 and 4 above.

Matt

unit

Thanks for the comments
Im confident its the wire and have ordered a new one from Porsche.
Im going sailing for a month and will just do the whole t/belt ect.. when i get back. The wire will here by then (gotta come from Germany).


Sam

davek9

Good point Matt, I had already repositioned my coil in the clamp (moved it towards the front of the car ~1") when I did the TBWP job to avoid having to do that again in the future.

Big Dave

Correct. Keep the coil in the forward position. After that, tension can be checked start-to-finish in about 20 minutes. BTDT.

worf928

For '87+ I always pull the fan shroud. With the shroud out of the way you can easily check tension several times (check, change (rarely), check, and re-check) and check the oil in the tensioner and get it all done in one hour flat or less. No need to mess with the upper rad hose etc.

How do you guys with the belt driven fans turn the crank to TDC? From underneath?