Steering Rack Rebuild - assembly lube ?
#1
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Steering Rack Rebuild - assembly lube ?
I'm intending posting some pics depicting the various seals etc, new and old pre install etc later on today.
What I need to know right now is what to use as an assembly lube. Just Dexron III or something else ?
What I need to know right now is what to use as an assembly lube. Just Dexron III or something else ?
#2
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I just used WD-40. I don't think there was anything listed in the set of instructions I used (which were actually for the 944 rack, because I couldn't find any for the 928).
If I can find my pictures I'll add them if you like.
FWIW- If I had it to do over again, I would just buy the rebuilt rack! Two full days of disassembly, cleaning and reassembly (Including new tie rods and boots and pump rebuild at the same time). Cool in a Zen, rock garden maintenance kind of way, but not a very practical use of time if you've got anything else going on in your life.
If I can find my pictures I'll add them if you like.
FWIW- If I had it to do over again, I would just buy the rebuilt rack! Two full days of disassembly, cleaning and reassembly (Including new tie rods and boots and pump rebuild at the same time). Cool in a Zen, rock garden maintenance kind of way, but not a very practical use of time if you've got anything else going on in your life.
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Thanks Mike
I guess I'll just use Dex 3. If I was in the US I'ld probably just get a rebuilt but the postage makes it kind of prohibitive versus $45 for a rack seal set.
I'll put some pics up later. For now I have to go by some more tools - Those hooky spiky seal remover things .
I guess I'll just use Dex 3. If I was in the US I'ld probably just get a rebuilt but the postage makes it kind of prohibitive versus $45 for a rack seal set.
I'll put some pics up later. For now I have to go by some more tools - Those hooky spiky seal remover things .
#5
Thanks Mike
I guess I'll just use Dex 3. If I was in the US I'ld probably just get a rebuilt but the postage makes it kind of prohibitive versus $45 for a rack seal set.
I'll put some pics up later. For now I have to go by some more tools - Those hooky spiky seal remover things .
I guess I'll just use Dex 3. If I was in the US I'ld probably just get a rebuilt but the postage makes it kind of prohibitive versus $45 for a rack seal set.
I'll put some pics up later. For now I have to go by some more tools - Those hooky spiky seal remover things .
Mike
#6
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Mike, Pate ? mj1pate
I'll be putting some pictures up in the morning (Here in OZ it's bedtime on thursday) in a new thread. Primarly of the guts of the rack and the seemingly unfathomable set of nylon rings, O rings, and wiper seals that come in a seal kit. Pulling the rack and dissasembly is pretty well covered elsewhere but the "daunting" prospect for me was the pile of seals - about 40 (I haven't counted) and where would they go.
As it turns out the worst thing about the whole job so far - the myriad of places that the PS fluid can drip from. Only today with the removal of the all the pipework from the car has the underneath of the car stopped looking like a battlefield. Oh and as far as I can work out so far I have one O ring I don't know what to do with and I'm missing one nylon ring.
I'll be putting some pictures up in the morning (Here in OZ it's bedtime on thursday) in a new thread. Primarly of the guts of the rack and the seemingly unfathomable set of nylon rings, O rings, and wiper seals that come in a seal kit. Pulling the rack and dissasembly is pretty well covered elsewhere but the "daunting" prospect for me was the pile of seals - about 40 (I haven't counted) and where would they go.
As it turns out the worst thing about the whole job so far - the myriad of places that the PS fluid can drip from. Only today with the removal of the all the pipework from the car has the underneath of the car stopped looking like a battlefield. Oh and as far as I can work out so far I have one O ring I don't know what to do with and I'm missing one nylon ring.
#7
Thanks Jon...please advise as to how you overcome logistical deficiencies, as I may encounter the same thing and would like not to spend any more weeks of downtime than necessary.
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#9
Jon,
I am on this jop right now with new MM. The problem I am having is to unscrew the collar nutsof the rack. Any suggestions? Posted already one pic of some seals.
Robert 1994 GTS midnightblue, the Netherlands
I am on this jop right now with new MM. The problem I am having is to unscrew the collar nutsof the rack. Any suggestions? Posted already one pic of some seals.
Robert 1994 GTS midnightblue, the Netherlands
#11
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I'll fess up. I did go out and buy a piece of steel pipe (approx 2" bore) with the intention of cutting it in half lengthways and cutting two teeth in it to make a tool to undo the collar nuts. However I succumbed to the I'll try it with a hamer and a punch method first, so I ground a punch to a bit of an angle to get a better seating on the indents in the collar nuts a couple of taps with the BFH and the nuts came loose, tapped them around the rest of the way with a piece of flattened copper pipe to avoid scratching the finish on the "tube".
#12
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Hammer & punch would be the DIY way ... and on reassembly, clamp the pinion side ear down to a flat surface such that when the other notched ring is tapped home - the 4 ears remain in the same plane.
The only rack I've opened was initially assembled lubed with a handful of grease.
The only rack I've opened was initially assembled lubed with a handful of grease.
#13
Jon, Garth and Lizard,
No special tool available in town so hammer and punch as an altenative and it workt out fine although it needed hard hammering to convince the ring to give up. Now I can continue.
Thanks
Robert, GTS 1994 midnightblue, the Netherlands
No special tool available in town so hammer and punch as an altenative and it workt out fine although it needed hard hammering to convince the ring to give up. Now I can continue.
Thanks
Robert, GTS 1994 midnightblue, the Netherlands
#14
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If it were mine, I would use transmission assembly lube. Made (obviously) to be compatible with automatic transmissions but in gel form, sticks where you want it to stick and won't run out. I've got a can of Sealed Power Transgel that's lasted for years. It's something most enthusiastic DIYers should have on hand for transmission and power steering work, IMO.
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FWIW while out shopping for other stuff in a shop called Stainless R us ( I think all shops should be called ......R us) I found some teflon impregnated moly grease recommended for engine rebuilds and transmission rebuilds so I am using that.