Jadz928

This applies specifically to Euro lighting. There are 2 sets of lower lamps on each side. The outside one is the fog lamp/driving lamp combo. The inner one is the high-beam lamp. The latter kicks on only when the headlamps are on high-beam. This serves no use to me because I find the high-beam headlamp more than adequate on it's own.
So what I want to do is rewire the high-beam lamp (next to the fog lamp) to work in conjuction with the fog lamp circuit. The problem is it is wired through the high-beam headlamp circuit. I don't want to just cut-n-splice at the lamps, I want to do it right and safely... if there is a way.
I read to wiring diagrams about this and the circuitry is too confusing for me.

I was wondering if any one can help me understand how to re-wire this new configuration properly? Thanks.

69gaugeman

The problem is that if you use it actually for fog you will blind yourself.

The fog reflects the light and driving lights aim up and reflect back into your eye.

If you just think that having lots of lights on while driving is cool then you are one of those people I yell at when they are driving towards me in the city when you could drive without lights......

Jadz928

I'm sure I all ready get yelled at for the H4's.

Jadz928

My plan is to not use both the foglamps and headlamps simultaneously. I want to use the fog lamps and "city cruising headlamps".

69gaugeman

Except the driving lights are aimed high for distance driving. will tend to blind oncoming cars.

All that being said I only have US wiring diagrams so I don't think it shows the euro wiring. I will check though. Are you going to have a secondary switch for the driving lights? Otherwise you will not be able to use your fog lights when it is foggy

Jadz928

This Euro is different. The outer lamp is a foglamp/driving lamp combo. It has a 55w H3 and a 4w BA9. When the driving light is switched (first open position on light switch), only the 4w BA9 is powered. This is the Euro equivalent to "parking lights".
Then, to activate the foglamp requires the pushbutton switch. This is the next switch down from the light switch on the pod. I just want to add the inner (high-beam) lamp to this circuit. I want to keep the wattage at 55w, just 2X.

BrianG

There is no way to arrange your lighting as you desire by simply rearranging the wiring harness plugs. You are going to have to intercept the wire of the light you want to mimic and you are going to have to separate the one that you want to redefine. You could build a conversion "Y" harness, but that will require a harness-side plug for each of the lights and a receptacle plug for the fog light..... for each side.

Jadz928

Brian,
I understand, and I do not want to cut-n-splice at the lamp connections. I would imagine that would be enough load to require a relay of sorts. Don't want to do that.

Alan

Jim - DONT DO THIS!

You missuse the term driving light w.r.t. normal usage. Euros only differ from USA cars in that they have a "marker" light combined with the fog/driving lamp cluster. Markers come on with the lighting switch I position (of 0/I/II).

The Additional High Beams = Driving Lights, which always come on with high beams.

Euros are already configured so you can have fogs, highbeams & driving lights on together. USA cars disable the fogs when high beams are on. This is one more reason why it probably seems you have lots of light on mainbeam.

To your question - you can do this - BUT you shouldn't. The Driving Lights really are Highbeams - there is no bulb shield and you will blind motorists coming towards you - this is a crazy thing to do... right?

Would you drive around with your headlights on highbeam all the time?? Would people seek you out and beat you to death ...?

If you really want to do more or less what you say - get a seperate set of fog reflectors complete with a bulb shield and install these in your driving light position instead. As to wiring - the car didn't ever come this way so there is no "propper" way to do this. Best bet is to just connect at the fixture both bulbs toigether - you don't need to hack anything - tape up the high beam connector and make a piggy back quick disconnect daisy chain wire up - you can buy all the needed parts at an auto store and it is completely reversible.

The fog wiring & relay is good for 110W (2x55W) but you will need to upgrade the fuse.

DONT DO THIS WITHOUT BULB SHEILDS THOUGH !!!

Alan

Jadz928

Alan,
Okay, I get it. I do have a couple extra reflector/bulb shields somewhere.

Is the 110W total (2 lamps), or 110W per side?

For the record, I'm not trying to hack any thing up or **** any one off on the road. This is why I consult the list. There are people understand certain things better than I. I try to do my best to get what I want and do it right. Also, I try to stick to reversible mods.

Thank you for your candor, all.

Alan

110W per side is OK - just - the biggest limitation is the wiring each side to the bulbs. However lots of people already run 100W H3 bulbs in these fog/drv lenses.

The Fuse (#1) needs to be changed from 16A to 20A - this is OK.

Make up a lead with a fully insulated female quick disconnect each end and look for a piggy back connector with 1 female & 2 male quick disconnects - this is all you need to link the H3 2 bulbs together to a single feeder.

You will need to tape up the piggy back - they don't make insulated ones.

Alan

(oh and those bulbs shields - but you got that message..!)

Jadz928

Alan,
Thanks. I partially understand the wiring.

So I'm wiring directly from bulb socket to bulb socket? I need two wires? What is a single feeder?

Alan

Single feeder = the existing feed wire for the foglights - it has a female Quick disconnect for the H3 bulb. The H3 is an unusual bulb - it has a wire & male pig tail connector attached looks like this (below). Actually thinking about it - you can use one of the below (pic) piggy back females on one end of your new wire and a regular female on the other. Connect this between the bulbs and plug the existing fog feeder into the piggy back male connector.

Hope this is clear.

Alan

Jadz928

Alan,
I get it. Except... do I leave the driving lights plugged in to it's external connector? I assume yes, to keep it grounded, since I'm only jumping the power feed.

Thanks for your help.

Oh, btw, do you know the max wattage of the marker light (the BA9)?

Alan

i think it will be clear when you take it apart. The H3 can only be physically mounted by attaching the grounding plate - you will have a seperate ground with its own connection - leave that as is.. (and don't unplug anything elsewhere in the fender) remove the high beam connector and insulate it (in case you ever want to go back).

The marker is supposed to be 4W on a Euro - if its been replaced - it may well be 5W since US made bulbs in that size tend to be 5W - it doesn't matter which you have.

Alan