Greetings,

Has anyone ever had their nose section repainted ?

My S4 (Silver Metallic) has some clearcoat problems in a few areas on the nose as well as having one spot (about the size of a quarter) where the bumper must have been hit and the paint has chipped off. There are no dents or deformations of any kind on the nosepiece itself, just paint and clearcoat problems. I would like to do as much as I can myself on this and then have a capable shop do the actual paint work. How much can I expect to spend on this ?

Thanks,

Rob

 

Rob,
I had the nose of my Silver 89 S4 repainted and my friend/painter charged me 200. I did most of the prep work. Your cars chip sounds allot like mine but I sold mine to someone in Miami.

 

Larry,

It's entirely possible that we are talking about the same cars. I bought mine from a guy in Lodi, CA. The CarFax records indicate that up until about 1999-2000, the car lived it's life in Florida. The quarter-sized chip is on the left front of the nose, near the headlight washer and the clearcoat problems are on the right front. The car has GTS mirrors and a GTS wing. The car also has / had 18" polished Twist rims that I am going to swap out for a more sedate (and correct offset... the 18's are doing some front fender rubbing) set of polished S4 flats.

You never know...

Rob <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />

 

Robert, I just painted the whole front end of my car. Well I had a friend do it and I watched him spray. But I did all of the prep myself. I did do this with the nose; it was already off so I had that going for me. I wet sanded it down to 600 and then bought some spray paint in a can that was a good match and sprayed the whole area where the fog, driving, and turn signals go. Then I wet sanded the over spray off the areas that my friend could hit with the big gun. I put the nose back on, masked off the fog, driving, and turn signals and he shot the whole thing. Perfect! If you do it the other way (leaving it on and repainting) there will always be some little area that did not get covered and your eye will see it. I also used Sikkens Autocryl with the hardned and reducer. It's a single stage paint the dries in ten minutes between coats. I let the next to last coat dry to the touch (one hour) before the final coat. And it was ready to drive in 8 hours.

Chucker
1982 928 White

 

There is a special primer required for shooting paint on the nose and tail pieces. A Sherwin-Williams automotive paint store (my brand of choice) can guide you.