928 Clutch Replacement...Dragging Problems
08-02-2002, 12:01 PM
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928 Clutch Replacement...Dragging Problems
I have seen many responses to the problems and fixes for 928's. I am having a problem myself in my 79 shark with the original double clutch...
The original factory ball stud had broken off. So I was having clutch dragging and chattering problems. To correct the problem I have replaced the following during the clutch replacement job:
Clutch discs
Pressure plate
Clutch guide shaft
Ball stud
Plastic ball stud cup
Throwout bearing
Pilot bearing
Clutch Guide shaft
A professional mechanic is working with me on the clutch. I have done everything the factory manual says to do and even the tech update about the double clutch. The clutch still drags when disengaged so I can't put the car into gear (the shark is on jack stands off the ground). The intermediate plate and clutch plates look disengaged and stepping on the brake pedal does stop the rear wheels with no effort. But releasing the brake lets the wheels spin again.
Any suggestions on what to look for in an adjustment somewhere?
CJ Ryan
79 Porsche 928
Website:
<a href="http://clik.to/PORSCHE928DRIVER" target="_blank">http://clik.to/PORSCHE928DRIVER</a>
The original factory ball stud had broken off. So I was having clutch dragging and chattering problems. To correct the problem I have replaced the following during the clutch replacement job:
Clutch discs
Pressure plate
Clutch guide shaft
Ball stud
Plastic ball stud cup
Throwout bearing
Pilot bearing
Clutch Guide shaft
A professional mechanic is working with me on the clutch. I have done everything the factory manual says to do and even the tech update about the double clutch. The clutch still drags when disengaged so I can't put the car into gear (the shark is on jack stands off the ground). The intermediate plate and clutch plates look disengaged and stepping on the brake pedal does stop the rear wheels with no effort. But releasing the brake lets the wheels spin again.
Any suggestions on what to look for in an adjustment somewhere?
CJ Ryan
79 Porsche 928
Website:
<a href="http://clik.to/PORSCHE928DRIVER" target="_blank">http://clik.to/PORSCHE928DRIVER</a>
08-02-2002, 01:35 PM
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If you set the car back on the ground do the rear tires still spin. I think you need a little resistance. Try it out and let us know.
The reason I say this is when I bought my 79 I had to replace the rear main seal. (which involves removing the clutch) I put it all back together and tested it. It would also turn the rear tire when disengaged. Pushed on the brake and it would stop the tire spinning without stalling the motor or even sounding like it wanted to stall. Let up on the brake and again the tire started turning. Now it wasnt turning like 800 rpm like the motor was running. It was just slowly rotating. I put the car back on the ground it runs perfectly. Thats it from me.
Later and good luck.
The reason I say this is when I bought my 79 I had to replace the rear main seal. (which involves removing the clutch) I put it all back together and tested it. It would also turn the rear tire when disengaged. Pushed on the brake and it would stop the tire spinning without stalling the motor or even sounding like it wanted to stall. Let up on the brake and again the tire started turning. Now it wasnt turning like 800 rpm like the motor was running. It was just slowly rotating. I put the car back on the ground it runs perfectly. Thats it from me.
Later and good luck.
08-02-2002, 01:53 PM
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Found the problem this morning after posting this.
The dealership that sold the shark to me knew about the busted ball stud. So the mechanic there adjusted the hydraulic clutch system to work without the ball stud.
What crap! We adjusted everything again and the car is perfect in the drivetrain. Everything was factory original. Porsche knows their stuff! Car has 133,000 miles with the original clutch before it was replaced.
Folks, since I started this thread lets keep going with it. There are plenty of problems out there that are unique to the Type 928 Porsche. Post them about the clutch here so that others can learn.
The dealership that sold the shark to me knew about the busted ball stud. So the mechanic there adjusted the hydraulic clutch system to work without the ball stud.
What crap! We adjusted everything again and the car is perfect in the drivetrain. Everything was factory original. Porsche knows their stuff! Car has 133,000 miles with the original clutch before it was replaced.
Folks, since I started this thread lets keep going with it. There are plenty of problems out there that are unique to the Type 928 Porsche. Post them about the clutch here so that others can learn.
08-07-2002, 11:50 AM
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Update:
After only having to adjust the clutch to let out alittle sooner...no more problems! It's great to have the beast in proper working order and the clutch is smoother than ever. My mechanic was impressed by the simple setup that Porsche had on the double clutch arrangement even though he had never seen one before (neither had I). Can't believe how easy it was once it was done. Won't take more than an hour and a half next time.
With a K&N $56 air filter and custom exhaust (good bye catalytic convertor!) the shark really moves much better. The exhaust note is more pronounced and turns many a head on the street.
After only having to adjust the clutch to let out alittle sooner...no more problems! It's great to have the beast in proper working order and the clutch is smoother than ever. My mechanic was impressed by the simple setup that Porsche had on the double clutch arrangement even though he had never seen one before (neither had I). Can't believe how easy it was once it was done. Won't take more than an hour and a half next time.
With a K&N $56 air filter and custom exhaust (good bye catalytic convertor!) the shark really moves much better. The exhaust note is more pronounced and turns many a head on the street.
08-08-2002, 09:32 AM
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My clutch went wobbly yesterday. What happened was that in normal town driving the pedal simply didn't come back up after use. It felt loose over say 60% of it's normal travel (the only resistance was the return spring) Luckily there was enough action in the remaining 40% to get the car home.
As usual my repair strategy is to drop the car off at the porsche dealer and give them my credit card details! Subscribing to this list I do feel guilty about this, and as soon as I get a house with a garage I will do some work myself. Honest!. I will let you know what they find.
Cheers
Dave Woolard
As usual my repair strategy is to drop the car off at the porsche dealer and give them my credit card details! Subscribing to this list I do feel guilty about this, and as soon as I get a house with a garage I will do some work myself. Honest!. I will let you know what they find.
Cheers
Dave Woolard
08-13-2002, 12:37 PM
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Good!
It's not as hard as one would think! Heck, I've had a much harder time on domestic, rear wheel drive vehicles.
Use WD-40 to loosen up some of the bolts before trying to bust them loose and don't get any WD-40 on the clutch stuff!
The ball stud being broken off peeved me big time. Can't believe that someone or some business would adjust the hydraulic clutch to compensate for the missing ball stud! All that needed to be done was drill out the old one. The new ball studs are heftier and require a larger threaded hole to be drilled and tapped out. The clutch housing didn't take more than an extra 10-15 minutes to remove.
I just had the exhaust "domesticated" yesterday. The catalytic convertor was starting to plug after all these years (original 79 factory!). Unbolted the exhaust, using long screwdriver punched out all the innards, bolted back on. Removed the first resonator and the rear muffler, both were about gone. Replaced with a single straight-thru sesonator, or "cherry bomb" for the old timers in front of the rear axle, and finished with a 3-chamber resonator replacing the rear muffler. Sounds almost stock again, but a little more "growl" when running at speed. Total cost with labor = $228.00
<a href="http://clik.to/PORSCHE928DRIVER" target="_blank">http://clik.to/PORSCHE928DRIVER</a>
It's not as hard as one would think! Heck, I've had a much harder time on domestic, rear wheel drive vehicles.
Use WD-40 to loosen up some of the bolts before trying to bust them loose and don't get any WD-40 on the clutch stuff!
The ball stud being broken off peeved me big time. Can't believe that someone or some business would adjust the hydraulic clutch to compensate for the missing ball stud! All that needed to be done was drill out the old one. The new ball studs are heftier and require a larger threaded hole to be drilled and tapped out. The clutch housing didn't take more than an extra 10-15 minutes to remove.
I just had the exhaust "domesticated" yesterday. The catalytic convertor was starting to plug after all these years (original 79 factory!). Unbolted the exhaust, using long screwdriver punched out all the innards, bolted back on. Removed the first resonator and the rear muffler, both were about gone. Replaced with a single straight-thru sesonator, or "cherry bomb" for the old timers in front of the rear axle, and finished with a 3-chamber resonator replacing the rear muffler. Sounds almost stock again, but a little more "growl" when running at speed. Total cost with labor = $228.00
<a href="http://clik.to/PORSCHE928DRIVER" target="_blank">http://clik.to/PORSCHE928DRIVER</a>
