Master Cylinder
Master Cylinder
User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,291
Likes: 2
From: Midland, Texas
Brian,
With brake line wrenches it doesn't look to bad, don't kink those lines!
I don't need to do this -yet- but was wondering the same thing when I was swapping the brake sensors.
I'm assuming you have the dual sensors...
You would have to check with the Big Three but I've 'heard'that the M/C comes with the sensors installed. But looking at the catalog they seem to be seperate items.
Might as well do a complete flush while you are at .
If you tackle this one take some digitals and post the procedure. It will be a great DIY task explanation.
Yea, tho we travel into the valley of the mechanically unfamiliar we shall fear no hard to reach nuts...
With brake line wrenches it doesn't look to bad, don't kink those lines!
I don't need to do this -yet- but was wondering the same thing when I was swapping the brake sensors.
I'm assuming you have the dual sensors...
You would have to check with the Big Three but I've 'heard'that the M/C comes with the sensors installed. But looking at the catalog they seem to be seperate items.
Might as well do a complete flush while you are at .
If you tackle this one take some digitals and post the procedure. It will be a great DIY task explanation.
Yea, tho we travel into the valley of the mechanically unfamiliar we shall fear no hard to reach nuts...
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,854
Likes: 9
From: Gilbert, AZ
I've taken my Master Cyclinder out a couple of times.
It's really not that difficult.
The biggest PIA is reaching the bolts. If your going to replace the MC, replace the grommets as well. Clean out the Res (with Dawn/make sure fully you rinse and dry it) Flush the brake system afterwards. (RR,LR,RF,LF then MC) You'll need a vice or something similar to hold the MC while you reinstall the res. Do not try to reinstall the Res while the MC is bolted to the booster - you'll end up breaking something. It's difficult to gain leverage plus, new grommets are tight as hell.
Pay attention to the vacuum lines entering the engine compartment under the MC.
928 International has the grommets so does 928 Specialist.
I used Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid (SynPower) - Dot 3 & 4 with a boiling point at 500 degrees F. Safe for our sharks and it's compatible with other non syn fluids.
From my experience.
If you would like further assistance, drop me an email and I'll hook you up with the service procedure.
Peace
It's really not that difficult.
The biggest PIA is reaching the bolts. If your going to replace the MC, replace the grommets as well. Clean out the Res (with Dawn/make sure fully you rinse and dry it) Flush the brake system afterwards. (RR,LR,RF,LF then MC) You'll need a vice or something similar to hold the MC while you reinstall the res. Do not try to reinstall the Res while the MC is bolted to the booster - you'll end up breaking something. It's difficult to gain leverage plus, new grommets are tight as hell.
Pay attention to the vacuum lines entering the engine compartment under the MC.
928 International has the grommets so does 928 Specialist.
I used Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid (SynPower) - Dot 3 & 4 with a boiling point at 500 degrees F. Safe for our sharks and it's compatible with other non syn fluids.
From my experience.
If you would like further assistance, drop me an email and I'll hook you up with the service procedure.
Peace
Racer
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
While we are on the subject, I would like to upgrade my 83 MC with a later S4 MC to gain the front to rear braking sequence as opposed to the diagonal braking on the early cars. Also to benefit my Big brake upgrade (GTS), however, I was wondering if the steel lines match up to the S4 Master. Has anyone upgraded their MC with some good advise on this?
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, SC
When I changed out my master cylinder, it came with new grommets and brake switches. I cut down a 13 mm box wrench to get at the nut on the left side of the master cylinder. The biggest PITA of the job is getting the master cylinder to bleed out the air. A power bleeder will not get the air out of a master cylinder. You still have to pump the brake pedal and bleed to get all of the air out. Depending on the year some master cylinders have a bleed nipple, attach a line to it and run it to the reservoir, and the bleeding process will go much quicker.