928 Tires: None are Quiet
08-09-2007 | 11:26 PM
#31
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From: Northwest
Originally Posted by Imo000
Since none of the tires you tried so far are quiet, maybe it your expectation of "quiet" is the issue. How quiet do you expect them to be?
H2
08-10-2007 | 12:53 AM
#32
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There are techniques for strategically adding foam to some of the channels to stop the noise migration through them If you spend a little spare time in the body section of the WSM, there are some tips on repairs and how to avoid replacing foam that's smoked out while welding in repair panels and such. Sounds like the factory puts some in there but doesn't support replacement after any repairs to the body. Wonder why...
In a previous car, I went to town with foam insulation in a lot of channels and cavities. The stuff I bought was moisture-activated. Seemed like a good idea at purchase time but wait, there's more! The foam was injected into body cavities and pillars using plastic tubing to route the goo. Supposed to react with moisture in the air and expand some, harden a lot. Not enough moisture to get it to foam up and harden, so foolish me kept adding more to the cavitiy until it was running out the fill hole. Foolish me... Over time, the humidity would once in a while get high enough for more of that stuff to react and expand/harden. Over time. Used the truck to pull jet ski's/sea-doos/ski boats. Each time we'd launch or recover a boat, some moisture would find its way into a cavity and more foam would expand and harden. After a few of these sessions, the access holes and body seams that let the moisture in would get plugged up with hardened foam. Then it would take a bigger event with more moisture to find its way into the cavity with the unreacted foam. But now there were fewer places for it to expand. So it started to seep out of body seams, around seals and weatherstrip. The bulb weatherstrip on one door somehow ended up with expanded foam inside, so the bulb was permanently in the shape it was distorted into with the door closed. Plus these big blobs of yellow foam would appear like ugly growths on the bottom of the car fo no apparent reason beyond the fact that I drove through a puddle a few days before. This went on for a couple -years-, BTW. Looked kinda cool with these yellow softball-sized glops dangling off the bottom below the rear doors all the time.
If there's a moral to this story, it's remember to be careful when you choose a foam product. If something isn't working the way you expect it, STOP! Then figure out what's wrong before you add any more foam goo. Things can go to hell in odd ways, and some of them offer no easy means of recovery.
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For the wheelhouse liners area, try spraying water onto the area you want to foam, then use Saran Wrap to cover the area before you apply any foam. The plastic will allow you to remove the piece you spray/generate, trim the exposed face as needed to get the liner to fit, then put the chunk back in and out as needed until you have the profile and fit you want. THEN you can pull the plastic wrap out and add just a tiny amount of adhesive to hold the foam block in place.
In a previous car, I went to town with foam insulation in a lot of channels and cavities. The stuff I bought was moisture-activated. Seemed like a good idea at purchase time but wait, there's more! The foam was injected into body cavities and pillars using plastic tubing to route the goo. Supposed to react with moisture in the air and expand some, harden a lot. Not enough moisture to get it to foam up and harden, so foolish me kept adding more to the cavitiy until it was running out the fill hole. Foolish me... Over time, the humidity would once in a while get high enough for more of that stuff to react and expand/harden. Over time. Used the truck to pull jet ski's/sea-doos/ski boats. Each time we'd launch or recover a boat, some moisture would find its way into a cavity and more foam would expand and harden. After a few of these sessions, the access holes and body seams that let the moisture in would get plugged up with hardened foam. Then it would take a bigger event with more moisture to find its way into the cavity with the unreacted foam. But now there were fewer places for it to expand. So it started to seep out of body seams, around seals and weatherstrip. The bulb weatherstrip on one door somehow ended up with expanded foam inside, so the bulb was permanently in the shape it was distorted into with the door closed. Plus these big blobs of yellow foam would appear like ugly growths on the bottom of the car fo no apparent reason beyond the fact that I drove through a puddle a few days before. This went on for a couple -years-, BTW. Looked kinda cool with these yellow softball-sized glops dangling off the bottom below the rear doors all the time.
If there's a moral to this story, it's remember to be careful when you choose a foam product. If something isn't working the way you expect it, STOP! Then figure out what's wrong before you add any more foam goo. Things can go to hell in odd ways, and some of them offer no easy means of recovery.
---
For the wheelhouse liners area, try spraying water onto the area you want to foam, then use Saran Wrap to cover the area before you apply any foam. The plastic will allow you to remove the piece you spray/generate, trim the exposed face as needed to get the liner to fit, then put the chunk back in and out as needed until you have the profile and fit you want. THEN you can pull the plastic wrap out and add just a tiny amount of adhesive to hold the foam block in place.
