This seemed like a decent lift unit, and very cost effective. It also was the shorter unit that will fit into my garage without cuttting anything.

I figured that since I was planning on holding rennlist tech sessions, and I do service on a fleet of 7 vehicles here, it was time to get something in here. I also like their model CL8000CSP XLT, it has the extended sized width and length, plus drive on features, but for a first lift it didn't make sense for me.

Any thoughts on installing that others have had 20/20 hindsight on? It should arrive here by next friday so I have to some time to plan things.

Driving a 928 to lift shouldn't be a problem with this unit from what I could tell, no? Anybody have this unit on here?

Thanks.

 

I have that same one in my garage. I won't live without it ever again.

 

I have 9'6" cieling in the garage and I can lift the shark to the top of the straoke and can stand upright under it (I'm 5'11")

Do yourself a favour and epoxy paint the floor before installation. (i wish I had)

I still haven't painted yet

 

I have some concrete etching liquid and garage paint that is chemical resistant sitting around, I think I will make that one of my projects early this week.

Thanks.

 

I have been so happy since I put my two post 10k lift in the garage. makes everything soo much easier and though mine cost 1795.00 bought mine from American Pride I think

 

This one is from complete hydraulic in Indiana. They seem to be a huge distributor of these units. I have no idea if they make them or not. It wouldn't surprise me if they did, since shipping 2k lbs from China doesn't sound cheap.

 

How about a link to where it is available for that price?
I am interested in the installation requirements and process, if you don't mind sharing

 

Here is the link and complete specifications / drawings can be found here too:

http://www.completehydraulic.com/cl10000bp.html

 

I bought mine from them as well. 2 years later still very happy. Install was less than a day by myself (and about 1 hour from a friend to raise the two columns from horizontal).

Just have a 4" pad and no issues even when lifting my 97 F150 (that only goes so I have 4' under it) but that was perfect for sitting on my rolling chair to work on it. last job was to replace leaf springs.

I suggest renting a good concrete drill as it make drilling the 3/4" (IIRC) holes much easier.

Instructions are very clear. I used auto tranny fluid as I had a 20 litre bucket here, and if ever I was in desperate need of some I could just use from the hoist.

 

Also run conduit to the hoist and put an electrical outlet on it as well. That is invaluble

 

Unless you have a huge garage, walk around and work space has to be carefully planned before drilling the floor - even something trivial, like being able to open the garage door when needed.
I started by placing the car in a desirable location for all of the above and then marked its lift points on the floor: work backwards from the preferred swing of the lift arms when in contact with the car at these points to get the lift post locations .... then attack the ceiling lights that are likely in the way

 

Are you going with symmetric or asymmetric and how did you decide?? Thanks

 

I chose symmetric only because most of my cars are close to 50/50 weight distribution. That would see to be the most logical then?
Asymmetric seems to be suited for your heavy front loaded cars / trucks. Although in a case like that, for instance my old Land Rover, I would think that just adjusting the arms and vehicle position more to the rear to offset some of that weight would take care of the problem, just so its not leaning forward excessively.

 

Plan on having the electrics and any air piping in place above the pump-side column. As others suggest, have a 120V GFCI circuit available too for convenience outlets on the columns. Plumb compressed air down both columns too. Put those ports up high enough that you won't catch clothing on them when walking past. Add at least one self-recoiling drop light to the columns. More on this below.

The height limitations for lifting are fairly simple. Put your car(s) in where they will be when you start lifting, and make sure that there is nothing in the way above the top surfaces for six feet straight up. As others mention, lighting is often in the way if you use flourescent shop lights now.

You'll want to add extra lighting around the work area that points inward since the car will shadow lights directly above. I plan to have lighting on the columns, pointing upward under the car. Otherwise you are doomed to carrying the droplight all the time.

The garage door issue is important if you EVER plan on having the garage door open while a car is up in the air. Most sectional doors (virtually all residential installs) are configure to ride on tracks that are maybe 8 feet off the floor. There are ceiling-height conversions available, and if you want the door to go up tigt (~6") from the ceiling you'll want to use an opener that twists the torsion rod rather than a conventional screw or chain or belt drive push-pull residential opener.

The big difference between the symetrice vs asymetric arm arrangement is whether you'll be able to open the doors with the vehicle in place for lifting. I vote for the asymetric if only because you can get in and out of a car that's just parked in that space between lifted sessions. A symetric lift, unless it's one of the wide-footprint type, will ALWAYS try to dent or scratch your doors as you squeeze in and out of the car. Asymentric also means you can lift the car a foot or three to work on stuff on the floor of the pass compartment while seated outside.


Get the right accessories when you get your lift. Tall stands for holding things while you work on them are a blessing. Need to hold up the rear exhaust while you change a CV boot? Takes a tall stand. Simple stuff like oil changes require a tall catch bucket made for this service, or you'll have a BIG mess from splatter after the oil falls 6 feet into a bucket on the floor. Magnetic parts and tool trays are really handy too. A rolling tool cart or even a small roll-away cab is a luxury you'll appreciate quickly. You'll think of more must-haves after you've used it for a few projects.


That epoxy floor will be great, but you may want towait to install it after the lift columns are in place. Dragging the columns across your new floor will leave scratches and gouges in it that will need repair. When you do put the floor down, be sure to add some sand or other non-skid additive to the top coat to make the floor there ant-skid. Any oil or coolant spilled on a smooth floor is a ticket to instant slip-and-fall disaster. I also put an acrylic seal coating on my floor a few times a year to cut down on the surface wear and tear on the epoxy. It helps but there's still damage from dropped tools and the like. Perhaps one of those vinyl floor mats that Sams and Costco sell would be a good addition under the lift anyway.


HTH!

 

Lift Tips 101. Very cool. Thanks db.