I think I need one for my 1981....

Where?

How much?

How easy to install?

 

John,
I just repaired mine my selves - Relatively easy, only you need to make a tool for the two ring nuts at the ends of the cylinder.
I got spare parts from the local ZF dealer (a set of gaskets and some bushes) If you wish, I can find the part numbers and you can get a copy of my sketch for the tool
The result is excellent - like new!

 

Erik,

Thanks for the response. Can you let me know the part numbers? Perhaps I can just drop my rack, tear it down and then install these new parts. I have heard most rack rebuilds are really just a rip off anyway. I don't know about getting the parts here in the states though. Maybe if you have access in Europe, you can let me know and I'll buy the parts through you and give you some for picking them up for me. Just let me know.

Thanks

 

John and other interested,
I got the parts from the local ZF dealer (importer) - Search on the net to find your local dealer/importer
I got the following parts:
1 Gasket set parts # 7840 633 001 01 price 43,50 US$ (Consist of 27 different gaskets rings)
1 Nylon bush parts # 7840 035 102 01 price 0,70 US$
1 Support ring parts # 7842 034 102 01 price 0,38 US$
1 Pressure unit parts # 7840 240 102 01 price 8,13 US$
1 Nylon lining for the pressure unit parts # 7840 040 108 01 price 0,25 US$ (This was also included in the pressure unit)
4 Rubber bushes parts # 7840 040 120 01 price 55,00 US$ (You can get these cheaper from Devek) - That's the bushes for fixing the steering rack to the front beam, therefore important, but as you can see expensive from ZF

You need a special tool for the ring nuts around the cylinder - A piece of tube 65/48,5Ø x 60 mm - This to be machined down to 54 Ø x 5 mm - Now you take a metal hand saw and cut it to a half + 3,5 mm - Then you cut the other side until 3,5 mm from the centre and you get a half ring with two 7 mm taps who fit in-to the cuts in the nuts.
This tool, you can turn with a SKF tool (similar to what you use for high adjustment)
When you assemble, mount the steering rack on a flat wooden beam for aligning the two ends together
If you get in-to problems or questions, come back to me.
Good luck!

 

If you decide to replace the rack, 928 Specialists carries the ZF factory-rebuilt racks. They are excellent and have a good warranty.

 

I have the 928 Specialists ZF rebuilt rack. I'm very pleased with it.

When you do the rack, replace the steering fluid reservoir. This is to prevent any debris or gunk in the reservoir from hurting the new rack. The old one cannot be cleaned.

 

they're not factory rebuilds. Griffiths is doing the rebuilds. that's what Jeannie told me.

got my new rack in a couple months ago. call Dave, it's great...

 

I was told that ZF did the rebuilds for Porsche, and paid top $ accordingly. Is Griffith's doing them now?

 

Thanks Erik, I can rebuild my extra rack now. One thing to check before you replace. If your doing it yourself.
Compair new and the old racks location of the flat set screw area on the input steering shaft. Mine was 180 off from factory. Lucky, upstream from that point there is another joint that can be reconnected 180 off. That made it work. Just an Fyi from someone who had a Fun weekend.

 

Larry and other interested,
Yes correct, you have to note the position of the 'flat' on the input shaft when the rack is in the centre position (look at the centre hole).
But for the whole 'operation' be careful and note all the positions carefully - If you are not careful don't do! Also of safety reason!!!!
There is another tricky thing, when you remove the valve unit there is a axial bearing, take care this is in correct position when assemble - Best to do the mounting of the valve unit vertical (from down - up) then you can easily control the position of the axial bearing.
But all together that is a nice and interesting job for 'grown-up' buys
I also did my first experience/training on my spare rack.

 

Hey guys, thought I'd throw this in, my rack was leaking also. I sucked out the fluid in the res and refilled it with the new Valvoline Maxlife trans fluid and presto; absolutely no more leaks!!

 

Thanks for all the info.....I may try the new fluid first, then do a rebuild myself to save some cash.

 

Several asked for photo or drawing of the tool - Here you have a simple sketch
Remember you get less forces on your steering rack if you adjust the riding height to the factory specification (due to horizontal steering rods). At the same time you get better driving performance and the car looks better (Looks less tired)
See:
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/toolforsteeringrackcopy2.gif" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/toolforsteeringrackcopy2.gif</a>

 

I found a 928 rack and pinion rebuild kit available from <a href="http://www.transtec.com" target="_blank">TransTec</a> an aftermarket parts supplier. Kit # 8320 covers model year 1980-1990 at a cost of $29.03 plus shipping. You can purchase directly from the manufacturer. The phone number to call is 419-499-2502.

 

Erik, I was able to rebuild my steering rack using the tool you designed and a seal kit I found on the net (see prior post). Thank you! I had to use a metal punch to loosen the retaining collar but with your tool it was possible to get the collar off and back on in no time at all. For those interested I started with an exhaust pipe reducer (Napa part # 41946) 1 3/4" ID, 2" OD and used a bench grinder and dremel tool to make Erik's tool. Rebuild cost with tool was about $38 not including tie rods, boots and P/S pump resevoir.