JPTL

There's a circular groove in the hub that takes the 'shoulder' of the cap. The shoulder does have a ridge, but it's not what seats the dust cap. What seats the cap is the depth of the shoulder. By taking off some of the shoulder, the cap will seat shallower. Fortunately, there's enough space between the dome or head of the cap and the nut to do this.
Yea, if you have access to a band saw, that would be idea. Block it up and get a nice straight cut. Chamfer the edges for a nice smooth fit w/out binding, and you're good to go.
Your centercaps will probably snug up against the dust cap (still be touching the dust caps), but with good centercaps and enough off of the dust cap, they'll stay in. You can put a little bit of clear silicone adhesive around the flanges on the centercaps if you're nervous about them not staying in.

redpathtribe

Ryan,

You've got it. Remove the cap and cut 7-8mm off the end that seats into the spindle (kind of like cutting 7-8mm off the end of a pipe, if that doesn't confuse it more!). The "ring" around the dust cap (on my GT anyway, YMMV) did NOT seat on the face of the spindle. The flange (height?) of the dust cap below the ring is normally tall enough that there is space between the ring and the spindle when it's seated. Cutting the 7-8mm brings that ring closer to the face of the spindle, but I think the "dome" will hit the axle nut as J.P. mentioned before the ring will seat on the spindle.

And yes, you should be able to cut it on a bandsaw yourself. Holding it (try good vicegrips) while cutting is the trick.

RyanPerrella

ok, i see exactly what you guys are talking about. I pulled the wheel and the idea is simple enough.

Problems are, how do you get the damn cap off? I tried with some channel locks to grab them and pull them out unsuccesfully. Not sure what i can pry against to go that route either.

Second is that i dont have a band saw, I guess i can just take the two caps off and take them to a machine shop, i assume they cold do both for about $5. I know it would only take 30 seconds to do both.

Lizard928

Ryan, grab it with channel lock pliers and twist and pull at the same time.

redpathtribe

Ryan,

I think there are a couple of ways to get the caps off. One is if you can get a cold chisel of big screwdriver on the backside of the "ring" and tap it off. Or, and I think this is what I did, use a mallet or hammer and lightly tap on the side of the dust cap towards you (away from the car) alternating on either side and top and bottom and slowly "walk" the cap off.

RyanPerrella

yeah i will have to get some larger channel locks, the ones i have arent holding tight, they are just slipping and grinding up the cap.

I guess i can try and find a neighbor with a band saw and a metal blade on it, i dont know of any machine shops in the area but i have been suprised before by what is actually just right around the corner from me. I better pull out the phone book.

duggee

I am a machinist and did this very procedure. It does take about a couple minutes to do each one. Most machine shops charge a min. of $60/hour and while it only takes a couple of minutes per part, there is setup time - they may not have a lathe setup for that size part at the moment. so at least a half hour charge. I'd do it for you no charge but I'm in utah, sorry.

doug

hacker-pschorr

I like to keep things simple

928ntslow

Option 4 (or is it 5?)


Or just trim and hammer as so many others have done

Also, you can powder coat your nuts. ...Wait, that didn't sound right...

RyanPerrella

Keith, where did you get that cap?

Where can i find one?

morganabowen

Hey Ryan, I'll jump in while waiting for Keith's response. I have the same problem with the Sport Design wheels that I have on my S-4. The rears are fine, it's the fronts that are the problem. I finally purchased a generic cap, had it electro-something so they looked chrome, and stuck a Porsche Crest sticker in the middle. I don't like it, looks a little cheesy. Like you, I'm looking for another answer. Nice choice of wheel

dr bob

Ryan: Went through this too.

Cap comes off using a piece of wood and a MFH (slightly smaller than the BFH in the first few posts...). I used a short strip of scrap oak flooring and it worked great.

Once it was off, I marked the cap with a felt pen, stuck it in the vise, then just cut some 6mm off of the cap. Less-than-elegant method involved a hacksaw, and a file to dress the cut edge a bit. Tap the cap back in. being sure to keep the cap square, and only put it in as far as it needs to go to clear the center cap.

RyanPerrella

Yeah guess i forgot about the hacksaw. But that should work.

Wild Bill

Ryan,
Before trimming or wacking with a sledge, first measure how much distance you have to make up to allow the wheel cap to snap into place. I only trimmed about 6mm off of my dust caps to make them work. Too much more than that you are probably looking at solution such as Keith's custom dust caps or a different decorative wheel cap.

To get the dust caps off I used a cheapo 2 1/2" muffler clamp, clamped down onto the groove around the dust cap. This gives you something to pry against with a large screw driver... pry, turn, pry, turn... going slow and easy, so as not to bugger up the aluminum hub. Inserting a putty knife or similar between the prying tool and the hub is good insurance. Only takes a couple of revolutions and it will fall off in you hands.

My dust caps are very stout, so pounding them with a sledge didn't seem like a good idea. I placed them open side down on the bench and marked my 6mm trim line in marking pen around the cap, holding the pen in place, 6mm up from the bench and turning the cap to get a good even mark. I then simply took the caps over to my bench grinder and made the sparks fly. Kinda ugly method at first, but it is quite simple to clean up the ragged edge intentionally left just short of the line, with a piece of coarse sand paper laid flat on the bench and an orbital motion with the cap... nice square and clean after a bit of clean up of the edges, not that it has to be perfect.

Good luck with 'em.

Bill

ROG100

try a 3 or 5mm spacer