Engine Vibration Update
06-25-2003, 09:26 AM
#31
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For some unknown reason I can't get the images from Moment of Fame to transfer over the the Forum. I have entered about 5 pictures of the damaged mounts there. Will keep trying
06-25-2003, 04:33 PM
#32
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Still trying to attach pictures from Moment of Fame. Anybody know how to do it? According to the instruction, I should be able to cut and paste the URL, but when I go to the picture, click on properites it does not allow me to cut and paste. Very frustrating. The pictures are very good examples of collapsed engine mounts, and I wish that I could put them here.
06-25-2003, 05:49 PM
#34
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Jersey Joe I was interested in knowing if you went with the stock mounts. Also did you find that your transmission mounts were ok. Looking to see how many problems to find from all my vibrations. Some have reported bad transmission mounts... like PbFoot. our these very involved in replacement as well.??
Note: sent you a private msg Joe.. Dave.
Note: sent you a private msg Joe.. Dave.
06-25-2003, 07:33 PM
#36
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What do you mean by trans mount? The rear diff mount? I guess that it took about 5 hours including cleaning the crossmember. It's so smooth now, you can rev it without any noise in the cabin. It appears to shift better also. When Dave posts my photos, you will see how bad mine were
06-25-2003, 11:26 PM
#37
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Photos (click to enlarge):
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT2.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT2.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT3.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT3.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT4.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT4.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT5.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT5.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT6.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT6.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT2.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT2.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT3.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT3.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT4.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT4.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT5.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT5.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT6.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/bigdave/MOUNT6.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
06-26-2003, 06:09 PM
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Thanks, JJ & Dave, for the pictures. My engine mounts probably look like that too, if not worse. The engine sat so low that the exhaust is touching the frame. I can't wait to drive the car with new mounts.
06-26-2003, 06:45 PM
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Thanks for the photos, guys. I am up to my elbows in replacing the steering rack, motor mounts, oil pan gasket (and adding GTS baffle). So far, I have the rack off and getting ready to hoist the engine to do the rest.
My biggest problem is finding the time!
My biggest problem is finding the time!
07-06-2003, 07:48 PM
#42
Jersey Joe, PbFoot, others,
Well I was under the sHARk and noticed she had accumulated some grime...SO...
Pulled her out in the alley found some cardboard
-big piece- in the dumpster, slid it underneath and spayed away with engine cleaner. After a flurry of wiping I noticed that the oil cooler fins were about 1/4' below the crossmember. There was also very little shaft exposed on either engine isolator. Pretty well bottomed out(bummer).
More wiping.
Remembered this post, made a few comments and requests for info. Alas, the reply did not take.
I pulled back in the drive, put her up on the homemade ramps/blocked her in as well.
Joe,
I see what you mean by stabilizing the aft end with a jack as I used all 16 inches of 4000lb floor-jack with no joy -it did unload the front end though-. Added a total of three, cut to size, pieces of 3/8' plywood to finally raise the engine. BTW one of my lost questions was, would it do any good to loosen the outer(fwd) eng. mount bolts to help lift or would that bend the mount flange? Another was: Is the only real reason everything has to be dropped/loosened and moved out of the way because of the miserable inner(aft)
eng, mount bolt?
Anyhow, I decided I didn't want to strain the oil pan/cooler by shimming it to a full 1/2' heigth above the low point of crossmember. Hmmm... did not have the Jaegar temporary mount assist on hand, and didn't want to use wood
.
My neighbor, a middle school teacher helped(?).
While I was eyeballing things under the sHARk there was the sound of a large truck with airbrakes at the far end of my spare' cul-de-sac lot.
That would, of course, be my neighbor directing a cement truck thru my yard destroying several clumps of Lantana, a 15 foot Slash Pine, a 10 foot Silver Maple -impossible to grow here-, and three stations of my watering system including a valve box. He did however get his work shop pad poured.
The silver lining to this was that the cement truck tore off both 'new' rear dual, mudflaps while backing up. He actually, wanted them back, fer Christ's sake. I told my neighbor to finish floating the pad and I would scream at him later.
While walking back to the garage I noticed that the upper and lower ends of the mud flaps were 3/8" thick, cord re-enforced, rubber.
Cut two pieces to size with a utility knife.
The whole thing, clean-up, ramping, jacking, fabricating, on till test run was 45 minutes.
Included changing clothes and washing up.
No arguement!
This is on the cheep, cheep, cheep
I don't care, unless I develope a pan leak.
The ride is much smoother -I thought I was due for shocks-, handles a little better, and my CD's don't skip on bridge expansion joints now.
The 'pads' compressed to where the lower pan is still almost 3/8" above the low point of the crossmember.
Well gotta go the neighbor is driving a F-250 with a 16 foot trailer thru the yard.
Well I was under the sHARk and noticed she had accumulated some grime...SO...
Pulled her out in the alley found some cardboard
-big piece- in the dumpster, slid it underneath and spayed away with engine cleaner. After a flurry of wiping I noticed that the oil cooler fins were about 1/4' below the crossmember. There was also very little shaft exposed on either engine isolator. Pretty well bottomed out(bummer).
More wiping.
Remembered this post, made a few comments and requests for info. Alas, the reply did not take.
I pulled back in the drive, put her up on the homemade ramps/blocked her in as well.
Joe,
I see what you mean by stabilizing the aft end with a jack as I used all 16 inches of 4000lb floor-jack with no joy -it did unload the front end though-. Added a total of three, cut to size, pieces of 3/8' plywood to finally raise the engine. BTW one of my lost questions was, would it do any good to loosen the outer(fwd) eng. mount bolts to help lift or would that bend the mount flange? Another was: Is the only real reason everything has to be dropped/loosened and moved out of the way because of the miserable inner(aft)
eng, mount bolt?
Anyhow, I decided I didn't want to strain the oil pan/cooler by shimming it to a full 1/2' heigth above the low point of crossmember. Hmmm... did not have the Jaegar temporary mount assist on hand, and didn't want to use wood
. My neighbor, a middle school teacher helped(?).
While I was eyeballing things under the sHARk there was the sound of a large truck with airbrakes at the far end of my spare' cul-de-sac lot.
That would, of course, be my neighbor directing a cement truck thru my yard destroying several clumps of Lantana, a 15 foot Slash Pine, a 10 foot Silver Maple -impossible to grow here-, and three stations of my watering system including a valve box. He did however get his work shop pad poured.
The silver lining to this was that the cement truck tore off both 'new' rear dual, mudflaps while backing up. He actually, wanted them back, fer Christ's sake. I told my neighbor to finish floating the pad and I would scream at him later.
While walking back to the garage I noticed that the upper and lower ends of the mud flaps were 3/8" thick, cord re-enforced, rubber.
Cut two pieces to size with a utility knife.
The whole thing, clean-up, ramping, jacking, fabricating, on till test run was 45 minutes.
Included changing clothes and washing up.
No arguement!
This is on the cheep, cheep, cheep
I don't care, unless I develope a pan leak.
The ride is much smoother -I thought I was due for shocks-, handles a little better, and my CD's don't skip on bridge expansion joints now.
The 'pads' compressed to where the lower pan is still almost 3/8" above the low point of the crossmember.
Well gotta go the neighbor is driving a F-250 with a 16 foot trailer thru the yard.
07-07-2003, 05:20 PM
#43
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That was good thinking!!!!!!!!!!! The mudflap does exactly what the Jaeger Speed Mount does. Anything to get the mounts up will work. As far as the crossmember, yes it HAS to be removed to do this job. The upper mount bolts are a little tough. To anyone who is considering this job, you will be VERY HAPPY with the results of a smooth engine.
Jersey
Jersey
07-08-2003, 03:06 AM
#44
Three Wheelin'
Just a thought, with the mud flap/spacer in place. Could you some how pump some urethane (harder than silicon) into the old motor mounts filling them to capacity. I would guess that in two or three weeks they would be hard enough so that the mud flap/spacer could be removed.
FWIW, they were filled with water and alcohol when they were new.
FWIW, they were filled with water and alcohol when they were new.
07-08-2003, 02:59 PM
#45
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This is a good thought, but they may become too stiff. The OE mounts were filled with fluid to absorb vibrations. The Anchor mounts that fit the Ford pickup look very similar to the Porsche mounts but also lack the liquid center. They might physically fit but I'm guessing that they do not work as well. All I can say for sure is that the OE mounts are extremely smooth when they are new and will last about 8-10 years.