Does anyone know of a good replacment for the stock alternator? I upgraded my 79 to an '84 alternator but that has now failed also (my fault, again).
I would like to find a Chevy/GM (delco) or Ford (motorcraft) alternator to replace the expensive bosch/morelli unit. Anyone have any leads?
I found a site that talks about replacing the voltage regulator with a external motorcraft unit, but i would like to keep this my second option.
Jeff
I would like to find a Chevy/GM (delco) or Ford (motorcraft) alternator to replace the expensive bosch/morelli unit. Anyone have any leads?
I found a site that talks about replacing the voltage regulator with a external motorcraft unit, but i would like to keep this my second option.
Jeff
Advanced
We had a alt off a diesel Audi put on ours sometime in the late 80s. It is still on the car and all I recall having done was one piece of the wiring harness to it had to be replaced. It has been so much time that I could be wrong on the harness part and sorry that I do not recall which specific Audi, I would assume a 5000S in the mid 80s range.
Registered User
thepartsbin.com
rebuilt bosch about $130.
rebuilt bosch about $130.
Rennlist Member
Or Alternator/Starter Express, did me well.
<a href="http://autoexpress.safeshopper.com/688/cat688.htm?856" target="_blank">http://autoexpress.safeshopper.com/688/cat688.htm?856</a>
<a href="http://autoexpress.safeshopper.com/688/cat688.htm?856" target="_blank">http://autoexpress.safeshopper.com/688/cat688.htm?856</a>
Instructor
Keep the cooling hose in mind. 928 alternators come equiped with them. They get very hot and need cooling.
a "good replacement" will most likely be incompatible with the cooling hose and it's attachment.
However, a "good replacement" may not get as hot??
I replaced mine with a rebuild.
a "good replacement" will most likely be incompatible with the cooling hose and it's attachment.
However, a "good replacement" may not get as hot??
I replaced mine with a rebuild.
The subject was "a better replacement alternator".
Given all the factors, I don't think that there is one. You can porbably find "a cheaper replacement alternator", but even that might be questionable when all factors are considered.
We sell a lot of 928 parts, and answer a lot of questions, and I'll have to say that the alternators hold up very well. Remember that they are now mostly between ten and twenty-four years old!
By the time you get the harness adapted, get the proper excitation current to trigger the replacement, come up with a way to pull cooling air in so that you still have your A/C sensor in the airstream, and get the mounting worked out, a standard rebuilt will look pretty good.
Given all the factors, I don't think that there is one. You can porbably find "a cheaper replacement alternator", but even that might be questionable when all factors are considered.
We sell a lot of 928 parts, and answer a lot of questions, and I'll have to say that the alternators hold up very well. Remember that they are now mostly between ten and twenty-four years old!
By the time you get the harness adapted, get the proper excitation current to trigger the replacement, come up with a way to pull cooling air in so that you still have your A/C sensor in the airstream, and get the mounting worked out, a standard rebuilt will look pretty good.
Great prices on that AutoExpress site.
What is the difference between an SEV, Paris Rhone and the Bosch units? Which (if any) is better and why?
I think the voltage regulator in my alternator is not up to spec - my interior lights and headlights dim a bit when idling, and get brighter during acceleration.
What is the difference between an SEV, Paris Rhone and the Bosch units? Which (if any) is better and why?
I think the voltage regulator in my alternator is not up to spec - my interior lights and headlights dim a bit when idling, and get brighter during acceleration.
Annual maintenance:
1) Open the hatch and remove the tool panel. Remove the carpet and spare tire cover. Remove the spare, tools, etc. Open the battery box.
2) Disconnect the ground cable from the chassis. Remove the negative battery terminal. Remove the positive battery terminal. Remove the battery. Use extreme caution to avoid getting battery acid or residue from the top of the battery or cables in your eyes. Goggles are recommended. If the battery brushes against your clothes, you can end up with holes.
3) Clean the battery terminals until they are bright and shiny. Dull gray won't do. If it is possible to check the fluid level in the battery, do so. Fill to the rings. Wash the battery. Put it on a charger if possible.
4) Clean the battery box, removing all corrosion. Wash the battery box. After it dries, touch up the finish as required.
5) Clean the battery cable terminals (all three) until the connection area is clean and shiny. Dull gray won't do. Clean the connection area on the chassis.
6) Clean the speedometer/odometer drive electrical connector in the right forward corner of the spare tire well (pre-'90 models).
7) Raise the hood (bonnet). Remove the protective cap from the jump start terminal and pull the protective plastic cover from the terminal. If you are missing the cover or the cap, replace them - they are critical items. If there is no cover, water will enter the connector and corrode the connectors and wires, causing serious electrical problems.
8) If the connections are clean and tight, replace the cover and cap. If the connections show any corrosion or looseness, disassemble, clean and reassemble.
9) Jack the right front of the car so that you can SAFELY work underneath.
10) Remove the ground cable that runs from the right side of the engine to the chassis. Clean both ends of the cable, and check for corrosion in the cable. Clean the connection points, and replace the cable.
11) Check the heavy cable connection on the starter solenoid for looseness or corrosion.
12) Check the moderately heavy wires on the same connection for corrosion and breaks inside the insulation. These carry the charging current from the alternator.
13) Check the small yellow wire connection for corrosion and tightness. This wire triggers the starter solenoid.
14) Lower the car. Fold back the carpet and open the central power panel cover.
15) Check the main power connections at the top of the panel for tightness and corrosion.
16) Check the ground connections above the panel for tightness and corrosion.
17) If you are having electrical problems, remove each fuse and reinsert three times. Check the fuses for the proper value, and examine them visually for damage or corrosion. Test them is desired. Later cars have a fuse tester built into one of the relays.
18) If you feel that it is necessary, remove and reinsert each relay. This won't be easy, as they fit very tightly in some cases. Porsche sells a relay removal tool, but I am not impressed. It is basically a pair of pliers with square jaws, and will pull the relay apart. One tool that works well is a spark plug boot removal tool. It is a thin but strong sheet metal tool shaped like a "J" with the top 1/8" bent over at a right angle. You can put this angle under the bottom edge of the relay and lift it out - IF the battery is disconnected!
19) Close the panel and replace the carpet.
20) Replace the battery. Install the positive cable. Install the negative cable. Put a drop of oil on each nut. Connect the chassis end of the ground (negative) cable. Lubricate the battery box latch and close the box.
21) Lubricate the wiper drive shaft and hatch latch mechanism.
22) Clean the spare tire, jack and tools. Put a couple of large heavy plastic garbage bags in the spare tire well for emergencies, along with a tube of hand cleaner and some paper towels. Install the cover and carpet.
23) Lubricate the jack, and put it inside the tool panel. Clean and lubricate the tools. Reinstall the tool and tool panel.
24) Reset the clock and radio presets.
A couple of hours of quality time with your 928 once a year can forestall many problems.
1) Open the hatch and remove the tool panel. Remove the carpet and spare tire cover. Remove the spare, tools, etc. Open the battery box.
2) Disconnect the ground cable from the chassis. Remove the negative battery terminal. Remove the positive battery terminal. Remove the battery. Use extreme caution to avoid getting battery acid or residue from the top of the battery or cables in your eyes. Goggles are recommended. If the battery brushes against your clothes, you can end up with holes.
3) Clean the battery terminals until they are bright and shiny. Dull gray won't do. If it is possible to check the fluid level in the battery, do so. Fill to the rings. Wash the battery. Put it on a charger if possible.
4) Clean the battery box, removing all corrosion. Wash the battery box. After it dries, touch up the finish as required.
5) Clean the battery cable terminals (all three) until the connection area is clean and shiny. Dull gray won't do. Clean the connection area on the chassis.
6) Clean the speedometer/odometer drive electrical connector in the right forward corner of the spare tire well (pre-'90 models).
7) Raise the hood (bonnet). Remove the protective cap from the jump start terminal and pull the protective plastic cover from the terminal. If you are missing the cover or the cap, replace them - they are critical items. If there is no cover, water will enter the connector and corrode the connectors and wires, causing serious electrical problems.
8) If the connections are clean and tight, replace the cover and cap. If the connections show any corrosion or looseness, disassemble, clean and reassemble.
9) Jack the right front of the car so that you can SAFELY work underneath.
10) Remove the ground cable that runs from the right side of the engine to the chassis. Clean both ends of the cable, and check for corrosion in the cable. Clean the connection points, and replace the cable.
11) Check the heavy cable connection on the starter solenoid for looseness or corrosion.
12) Check the moderately heavy wires on the same connection for corrosion and breaks inside the insulation. These carry the charging current from the alternator.
13) Check the small yellow wire connection for corrosion and tightness. This wire triggers the starter solenoid.
14) Lower the car. Fold back the carpet and open the central power panel cover.
15) Check the main power connections at the top of the panel for tightness and corrosion.
16) Check the ground connections above the panel for tightness and corrosion.
17) If you are having electrical problems, remove each fuse and reinsert three times. Check the fuses for the proper value, and examine them visually for damage or corrosion. Test them is desired. Later cars have a fuse tester built into one of the relays.
18) If you feel that it is necessary, remove and reinsert each relay. This won't be easy, as they fit very tightly in some cases. Porsche sells a relay removal tool, but I am not impressed. It is basically a pair of pliers with square jaws, and will pull the relay apart. One tool that works well is a spark plug boot removal tool. It is a thin but strong sheet metal tool shaped like a "J" with the top 1/8" bent over at a right angle. You can put this angle under the bottom edge of the relay and lift it out - IF the battery is disconnected!
19) Close the panel and replace the carpet.
20) Replace the battery. Install the positive cable. Install the negative cable. Put a drop of oil on each nut. Connect the chassis end of the ground (negative) cable. Lubricate the battery box latch and close the box.
21) Lubricate the wiper drive shaft and hatch latch mechanism.
22) Clean the spare tire, jack and tools. Put a couple of large heavy plastic garbage bags in the spare tire well for emergencies, along with a tube of hand cleaner and some paper towels. Install the cover and carpet.
23) Lubricate the jack, and put it inside the tool panel. Clean and lubricate the tools. Reinstall the tool and tool panel.
24) Reset the clock and radio presets.
A couple of hours of quality time with your 928 once a year can forestall many problems.
That's a great to-do list Wally, thanks.
Are you suggesting that I may have a grounding / power connection problem, rather than a voltage regulator problem?
Are you suggesting that I may have a grounding / power connection problem, rather than a voltage regulator problem?
User
Wally,
Purchased a rebuilt alt. from an unfortunate shark owner back east - front end sadness...-.
The question: Is there any specific testing procedure for an early shark alt?
Or, will a simple load test at any Parts are Us store suffice.
Thanx in advance.
John S. & Pattycakes
<img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
Purchased a rebuilt alt. from an unfortunate shark owner back east - front end sadness...-.
The question: Is there any specific testing procedure for an early shark alt?
Or, will a simple load test at any Parts are Us store suffice.
Thanx in advance.
John S. & Pattycakes
<img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
There is nothing exotic about the 928 alternator - any competent shop should be able to test it.
Registered User
i'm thinking cables or battery. you'll love changing the positive cable -- all 9 feet of it, particularly in the area over the left cv joint.
User
Wally,
One more question.
I have a brand new #2, grounding cable, approximately, 25 feet long. Off of a dump truck.
I am going to use swaged and soldered ends to make some new chassis/engine ground straps. My question is can I use a #2 ground strap for the battery main and starter feed. I grew up on a farm so cost cutting (cheap) and never throwing ANYTHING away is ingrained. Fabrication time isn't a problem. I'll take your word for it if you think a new stock cable is the way to go.
John S. & Pattycakes
<img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
One more question.
I have a brand new #2, grounding cable, approximately, 25 feet long. Off of a dump truck.
I am going to use swaged and soldered ends to make some new chassis/engine ground straps. My question is can I use a #2 ground strap for the battery main and starter feed. I grew up on a farm so cost cutting (cheap) and never throwing ANYTHING away is ingrained. Fabrication time isn't a problem. I'll take your word for it if you think a new stock cable is the way to go.
John S. & Pattycakes
<img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />