Rattling rear wiper
07-20-2002, 06:38 AM
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Rattling rear wiper
Anybody have any gems to share on stopping the rear hatch wiper pantograph arms from rattling on each other over bumps please? I think relative movement will not allow for slipping them together. I dont want anything unsightly - black tape wound on lower arm comes to mind first....
TIA,
jp 83 Euro S
TIA,
jp 83 Euro S
07-20-2002, 02:10 PM
#2
John P,
Mine don't rattle...yet!
My twelve, going on 22, year old daughter decided to wash the cars and truck to make some extra cash.
Took a greenpad to the Montero, a bathroom cleaner on the F-150 windows - total bubble and peel -, and lifted and swept the 928 rear wiper an unknown number of times.
The wiper arm is no longer engaging the motor drive plate .
Additionally, I found a small piece of broken plastic - black- on the spoiler. The wiper blade now lays at a less than up right position. Look yours over and see if something snapped off while you were shoveling sand. At least you can see what has to be ordered. As a temp. rattle preventer: some dark packing foam from computer or special equipment shipping boxes, the sponge type. You can shape it with a hot wire -notches ect.
HTH
John S. & Pattycakes
Mine don't rattle...yet!
My twelve, going on 22, year old daughter decided to wash the cars and truck to make some extra cash.
Took a greenpad to the Montero, a bathroom cleaner on the F-150 windows - total bubble and peel -, and lifted and swept the 928 rear wiper an unknown number of times.
The wiper arm is no longer engaging the motor drive plate .
Additionally, I found a small piece of broken plastic - black- on the spoiler. The wiper blade now lays at a less than up right position. Look yours over and see if something snapped off while you were shoveling sand. At least you can see what has to be ordered. As a temp. rattle preventer: some dark packing foam from computer or special equipment shipping boxes, the sponge type. You can shape it with a hot wire -notches ect.
HTH
John S. & Pattycakes
07-21-2002, 06:35 AM
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John,
How far apart are your arms? Mine are barely 1/8" (2-3mm) separated vertically, and touch quite readily.
I will check for signs of anything broken off in there,
thanks,
jp
How far apart are your arms? Mine are barely 1/8" (2-3mm) separated vertically, and touch quite readily.
I will check for signs of anything broken off in there,
thanks,
jp
07-21-2002, 01:31 PM
#4
John P.,
Ditto on the narrow gap, though it is wider at the bottom than the top.
Does your bottom arm have the two(2) rubber snuffer blocks?
There should be 1 located on the lower arm just after the first curve where both arms line up vertically, and the second one just after the second curve on the bottom arm. There is a slot in the middle of the rubber bumpers and look as though they were installed by sliding down the flat on the lower arm. The upper of the two bumpers is actually touching the bottom flat of the top wiper arm but the lower one has about a 1/16" gap. If these guy's are missing I guess that's why you have a rattle. Considering the hot, dry climate over there it would be concievable that they dryed-up, shattered, crumbled and fell off.
Just for grins though...lift the wiper up like you were going to wash the rear window by hand...when you do this be watching both wiper arms where they connect to the drive motor pivot shafts, notice anything? Work it back and forth slowly a couple of times,OK?
HTH
John S.& Pattycakes
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Ditto on the narrow gap, though it is wider at the bottom than the top.
Does your bottom arm have the two(2) rubber snuffer blocks?
There should be 1 located on the lower arm just after the first curve where both arms line up vertically, and the second one just after the second curve on the bottom arm. There is a slot in the middle of the rubber bumpers and look as though they were installed by sliding down the flat on the lower arm. The upper of the two bumpers is actually touching the bottom flat of the top wiper arm but the lower one has about a 1/16" gap. If these guy's are missing I guess that's why you have a rattle. Considering the hot, dry climate over there it would be concievable that they dryed-up, shattered, crumbled and fell off.
Just for grins though...lift the wiper up like you were going to wash the rear window by hand...when you do this be watching both wiper arms where they connect to the drive motor pivot shafts, notice anything? Work it back and forth slowly a couple of times,OK?
HTH
John S.& Pattycakes
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
07-21-2002, 04:25 PM
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John,
Nope, no rubber parts on my arms - so now where do I go? Are these listed parts? Make something up I think. any pics available?
Now the trick question - lifting the arms up? The pivot of the panto arm seems either loose, or double pivoted on its shaft?
jp
Nope, no rubber parts on my arms - so now where do I go? Are these listed parts? Make something up I think. any pics available?
Now the trick question - lifting the arms up? The pivot of the panto arm seems either loose, or double pivoted on its shaft?
jp
07-21-2002, 05:20 PM
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Hi JP,
First, tighten down the nuts that hold the wipers on. Then tighten the bolt that holds the wiper base mechanism to the hatch. If the noise is still there, remove the wiper base mechanism, and replace the 2 rubber grommets through which the wiper base shafts protrude.
HTH,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
First, tighten down the nuts that hold the wipers on. Then tighten the bolt that holds the wiper base mechanism to the hatch. If the noise is still there, remove the wiper base mechanism, and replace the 2 rubber grommets through which the wiper base shafts protrude.
HTH,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
07-21-2002, 07:11 PM
#7
John P.,
I can't find the rubber bumpers in the 928 International Catalog, you could E-mail them or Devek ... and inquire.
Fabrication seems out of the question as the bumpers have round edge flat sides on top and a tapered rounded wedge shape on the bottom.
The top has to be both flat and rounded on the edge because as the wiper arm sweeps - side to side - the upper and lower arm overlaps one side or the other and the round edge keeps the arms from binding. The tapered end is shaped to slide on the glass should wind force or angle of sweep forces the arm down.
Now then, this bit of news from Thom may help both of us... though I am wondering if that 'snapping action' is 'SUPPOSED'to be there at the ribbed pivot connector. Give it a shot might cure your problem. The grommets are listed, left and right, but it doesn't state: front or rear, or if they are interchangeable. The pivots look the same -front and rear- though the rear one is a double assembly and it looks like the pivot closest to the center of the hatch is the driven one which then drives the dummy pivot. Could be wrong...
HTH
John S & Pattycakes
<img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
<img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" /> 
<img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
I can't find the rubber bumpers in the 928 International Catalog, you could E-mail them or Devek ... and inquire.
Fabrication seems out of the question as the bumpers have round edge flat sides on top and a tapered rounded wedge shape on the bottom.
The top has to be both flat and rounded on the edge because as the wiper arm sweeps - side to side - the upper and lower arm overlaps one side or the other and the round edge keeps the arms from binding. The tapered end is shaped to slide on the glass should wind force or angle of sweep forces the arm down.
Now then, this bit of news from Thom may help both of us... though I am wondering if that 'snapping action' is 'SUPPOSED'to be there at the ribbed pivot connector. Give it a shot might cure your problem. The grommets are listed, left and right, but it doesn't state: front or rear, or if they are interchangeable. The pivots look the same -front and rear- though the rear one is a double assembly and it looks like the pivot closest to the center of the hatch is the driven one which then drives the dummy pivot. Could be wrong...
HTH
John S & Pattycakes
<img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
<img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
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07-22-2002, 06:40 AM
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I trust the grommets your refer to are the rubbers that the shafts come through? Maybe they are shown on PET - they dont appear in the parts and Tech ref book that I can see.
At the top end, near the actual wiper blade fitting, my arms are pretty much in contact, some abrasion of the black paint is visible. I will try a turn of insulating tape, and see if that helps a bit, then explore the grommets issue.
Thanks for the tips,
jp 83 Euro S AT
At the top end, near the actual wiper blade fitting, my arms are pretty much in contact, some abrasion of the black paint is visible. I will try a turn of insulating tape, and see if that helps a bit, then explore the grommets issue.
Thanks for the tips,
jp 83 Euro S AT
07-22-2002, 11:01 AM
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That’s right JP,
The shafts go through those rubber grommets. Some ideas: Again, torque down previously mentioned nuts and bolts to spec. first. Tighten down the drive mechanism below the hatch too. If the hatch is loose, adjust the 2 rubber shims on the sides, and the hatch latch. Lubricate the wiper pivot points, including the blade attachment. If the pivot points have too much slop in them – check that while they are removed from the car – you may need to replace the wipers. If slop is in the wiper connection pivot, a new wiper may be less worn.
Keep us informed.
Good Luck,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
The shafts go through those rubber grommets. Some ideas: Again, torque down previously mentioned nuts and bolts to spec. first. Tighten down the drive mechanism below the hatch too. If the hatch is loose, adjust the 2 rubber shims on the sides, and the hatch latch. Lubricate the wiper pivot points, including the blade attachment. If the pivot points have too much slop in them – check that while they are removed from the car – you may need to replace the wipers. If slop is in the wiper connection pivot, a new wiper may be less worn.
Keep us informed.
Good Luck,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
07-23-2002, 07:22 AM
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Thom,
Good points, thanks. Now, how do I adjust the hatch latch? I moved the receiver forward a touch to improve holding the hatch, but I cant see a way to 'tighten' the hold. It looks to me like the rubbers on the sides are the only adjustment that will do this. I have tried this, but it still creaks more than it should. I have teflon pads on the hatch to meet the rubbers.
The wiper blade assembly itself is new, so not much slack there. There is the strange slack at the pantograph arm pivot though - should this be there? How is that arm fitted to the shaft - does it just pull off? Is the main arm fitted on splines on its drive shaft?
Thanks,
jp
Good points, thanks. Now, how do I adjust the hatch latch? I moved the receiver forward a touch to improve holding the hatch, but I cant see a way to 'tighten' the hold. It looks to me like the rubbers on the sides are the only adjustment that will do this. I have tried this, but it still creaks more than it should. I have teflon pads on the hatch to meet the rubbers.
The wiper blade assembly itself is new, so not much slack there. There is the strange slack at the pantograph arm pivot though - should this be there? How is that arm fitted to the shaft - does it just pull off? Is the main arm fitted on splines on its drive shaft?
Thanks,
jp
07-23-2002, 12:14 PM
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Hi JP,
See my responses preceded by *’s below:
Thom,
Good points, thanks. Now, how do I adjust the hatch latch? I moved the receiver forward a touch to improve holding the hatch, but I cant see a way to 'tighten' the hold. It looks to me like the rubbers on the sides are the only adjustment that will do this. I have tried this, but it still creaks more than it should. I have teflon pads on the hatch to meet the rubbers.
* The bottom portion has 2 bolts that slide up and down on mine. Mark the current position. You can make an automatic release mechanism stop working by getting this adjustment wrong. Loosen the 2 bolts, slide them down, tighten them to lower the hatch at the trailing edge. You may want to remove any shims under the bottom latch part. See: <a href="http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tip236.htm" target="_blank">http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tip236.htm</a>
The wiper blade assembly itself is new, so not much slack there. There is the strange slack at the pantograph arm pivot though - should this be there?
* I think you mean the high pivot points. Mine pivots cleanly, with no slop up and down or around the pivot.
How is that arm fitted to the shaft - does it just pull off?
* I think you mean the high pivot points. I have not disassembled one. It looks like the ends of the shafts are mushroomed like rivets. If you get it apart, you may be able to add a washer next to the clip to tighten it up a bit. That could remove up and down play, and might reduce rattle of axial play caused by the pivot shaft or socket wear.
Is the main arm fitted on splines on its drive shaft?
* Yes. The nuts tighten down the wipers, and lock the female side onto the splines.
HTH,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
See my responses preceded by *’s below:
Thom,
Good points, thanks. Now, how do I adjust the hatch latch? I moved the receiver forward a touch to improve holding the hatch, but I cant see a way to 'tighten' the hold. It looks to me like the rubbers on the sides are the only adjustment that will do this. I have tried this, but it still creaks more than it should. I have teflon pads on the hatch to meet the rubbers.
* The bottom portion has 2 bolts that slide up and down on mine. Mark the current position. You can make an automatic release mechanism stop working by getting this adjustment wrong. Loosen the 2 bolts, slide them down, tighten them to lower the hatch at the trailing edge. You may want to remove any shims under the bottom latch part. See: <a href="http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tip236.htm" target="_blank">http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tip236.htm</a>
The wiper blade assembly itself is new, so not much slack there. There is the strange slack at the pantograph arm pivot though - should this be there?
* I think you mean the high pivot points. Mine pivots cleanly, with no slop up and down or around the pivot.
How is that arm fitted to the shaft - does it just pull off?
* I think you mean the high pivot points. I have not disassembled one. It looks like the ends of the shafts are mushroomed like rivets. If you get it apart, you may be able to add a washer next to the clip to tighten it up a bit. That could remove up and down play, and might reduce rattle of axial play caused by the pivot shaft or socket wear.
Is the main arm fitted on splines on its drive shaft?
* Yes. The nuts tighten down the wipers, and lock the female side onto the splines.
HTH,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
07-27-2002, 05:18 AM
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Thom,
Thanks for the explanation! I found the covers over the shaft nuts eventually (well concealed compared to others) by levering under the edges. The panto arm nut was loose - well, rusty, but not clamping. Tightened that up, and put some black tape on the arm where it was rubbed.
Will road test shortly.
Thanks,
jp
Thanks for the explanation! I found the covers over the shaft nuts eventually (well concealed compared to others) by levering under the edges. The panto arm nut was loose - well, rusty, but not clamping. Tightened that up, and put some black tape on the arm where it was rubbed.
Will road test shortly.
Thanks,
jp
