Fuel pump gas leak!
#1
Three Wheelin'
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When trying to use all my strength to break loose the fuel filter (two-wrench method) I spotted a gas drip coming right from that end of the fuel pump between the two electrical connectors. I've seen some advice on tip sites and in the archives, but I'm not sure they quite apply. I'm afraid I might have damaged something myself, but I also am afraid to turn the car on for fear of blowing myself up (or burning my house down.)
#2
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Flint,
This is a WAG.
1. You screwed something up - a possibility.
2. If the check valve is on the wire side of the leak - closer to the fuel pump than the filter connector you are breaking loose - then you may have loosened the check valve causing the leak while wrenching on the filter.
If you chickened out on the filter removal...get back to work!
After the filter removal snug the check valve back up.
When you put the new filter on don't go nuts when you tighten the connector, I think everyone is reefing down WAY TO HARD on that fitting.
Snug it, turn the switch on and off a few times to cycle up the line pressure, check for leaks.
Start it up and idle, check for leaks again. After a few minutes at idle rev it up a little or drive around the block, check again.
Leave it overnight, chek for leaks in the morning.
No leaks button her up.
HTH
John S
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
This is a WAG.
1. You screwed something up - a possibility.
2. If the check valve is on the wire side of the leak - closer to the fuel pump than the filter connector you are breaking loose - then you may have loosened the check valve causing the leak while wrenching on the filter.
If you chickened out on the filter removal...get back to work!
After the filter removal snug the check valve back up.
When you put the new filter on don't go nuts when you tighten the connector, I think everyone is reefing down WAY TO HARD on that fitting.
Snug it, turn the switch on and off a few times to cycle up the line pressure, check for leaks.
Start it up and idle, check for leaks again. After a few minutes at idle rev it up a little or drive around the block, check again.
Leave it overnight, chek for leaks in the morning.
No leaks button her up.
HTH
John S
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#3
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I have had similar trouble here with the check valve coming loose. In the end I found it easiest to:-
-remove the filter outlet connection
-remove the wires to the pump
-disconnect the fuel inlet to the pump (clamp hose)
-loosen the 4 nuts on the carrier plate
-remove the whole assembly
-on the bench, dismantle filter from pump
-snug up check valve
-fit new filter on carrier, tighten pipe fittings
-refit carrier to tank base, refit connections.
Worked for me, no leaks.
jp
-remove the filter outlet connection
-remove the wires to the pump
-disconnect the fuel inlet to the pump (clamp hose)
-loosen the 4 nuts on the carrier plate
-remove the whole assembly
-on the bench, dismantle filter from pump
-snug up check valve
-fit new filter on carrier, tighten pipe fittings
-refit carrier to tank base, refit connections.
Worked for me, no leaks.
jp
#4
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Okay, I follow. Except, when you say "snug up the check valve" what do you mean? Does that mean just tighten the nut-looking thing on the end of the fuel pump or do I have to stick something down inside? Though that is quite plainly where the leak is coming from. I'm wondering if this leak hasn't been there for a whle as the inside of the cover plate is kind of rusty right beneath where that drip would be (lots of crud under there too). Luckily I was doing several other kinds of maintenance at once so I was planning on my car being out of action a couple days.
#5
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Flint,
I come from a long line of lazy people - genetically predisposed - as it were.
If you can reach it, without rounding things off,
see if is loose first, then snug it down.
If it's not loose it may have been reefed down too tight already!
Options would be to remove it and check both male and female threads for damage or severe knife edgeing. If you remove it make sure you have a large towel to catch the ball bearing/check ball.
I'm not sure if there is a spring and or washer
involved here. If the ball has crud on it clean it. Reassemble and snug. There is, no doubt, a specific torque which has been violated in the past. FWIW How many shark drivers do you suppose have been using torque wrenches with an offset crows foot. Yeah, in a perfect world... . In any case if you can't torque it snug it and do a leak check as suggested above. This is not the book method. I have seen the method John P. suggested posted a number of times for those over reefed filter/fuel lines, saves knuckles and line damage.
HTH
John S. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
I come from a long line of lazy people - genetically predisposed - as it were.
If you can reach it, without rounding things off,
see if is loose first, then snug it down.
If it's not loose it may have been reefed down too tight already!
Options would be to remove it and check both male and female threads for damage or severe knife edgeing. If you remove it make sure you have a large towel to catch the ball bearing/check ball.
I'm not sure if there is a spring and or washer
involved here. If the ball has crud on it clean it. Reassemble and snug. There is, no doubt, a specific torque which has been violated in the past. FWIW How many shark drivers do you suppose have been using torque wrenches with an offset crows foot. Yeah, in a perfect world... . In any case if you can't torque it snug it and do a leak check as suggested above. This is not the book method. I have seen the method John P. suggested posted a number of times for those over reefed filter/fuel lines, saves knuckles and line damage.
HTH
John S. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#6
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Well, what I ended up doing was, unfortunately, giving up on the fuel filter. I was giving it one last go and started to feel a pang of sorts in the old pectoral, thereupon I immediately started thinking that this was the exact kind of strenuous activity my father's cardiologist forbid him from doing (especially in 104 degree heat as it was today), then I started wondering if my health insurance got my check and--well, you follow on to the eventual conclusion that I'll hold this job in reserve until I next need a professional. I did manage to twist the fuel pump on the carriage against the check valve, then tightened up the clamping strap--fixed it right up, not one drip since. Simple, really, but more importantly I managed to replace both distributors and rotors as well as all the spark plugs as part of the overall tune-up (again in 104 degree heat) and the car runs great--better even. Thanks for all the advice, now I think I'll go drink some water.