1) No need to unbolt the slave - I think I managed to push the pushrod to push the slave back in directly - It may depend on what shape of levers/prybars you have available to push with.

2) You are correct. the master should come up by itself if the pedal pushrod is disconnected. (I think it has a spring inside) I actually did it without disconnecting the pedal pushrod but if the preload was adjusted - pushrod too big - to start with this will prevent fluid flowing from reservoir to the master.

 

Great, thanks...

Removing the pushrod from the pedal before bleeding seems like a good idea - maybe it should have been a footnote in the WSM even ...

I'll get some more brake fluid and try one more time ...

 

Replaced the oil with mobilube - can't speak for mobilube vs. other brands, but it sure as hell beats old dino oil that's covered 250KKm...

Gear shift is much much smoother - I can now easily shift into 1st, even without resorting to my previous trick of visiting 3rd on the way there It still requires a bit of force when completely cold, but that's a minor moan...

The clutch... oh the clutch... Turns out the garden sprayer I used to build my powerbleeder from is allergic to brake fluid ("Gardena", if anyone wants to know). After being in contact with the fluid, the plastic turns hard and breaks at the slightest touch.

So, I had to build a new one, and since I had to use whatever parts was available, I ended up with one that couldn't really sustain a high pressure.

Anyway, I tried pushing back the pushrod on the slave, but could move it maybe 10mm at the most. I even tried loosening the bolts, pulling back the slave, and stickinig a screwdriver between the rod and the clutch arm and then re-tightening the bolts, same result...

I may or may not have gotten air out this way - hard for me to look for bubbles in the resevoir when lying on my back below the car .

When trying to bleed the clutch the old fashioned way (with a helper, pressing the clutch down), it once again went straight to the floor and stayed there.

As a last resort I used my "new" power bleeder and forced the master back out. I then bled it one more time using the new power bleeder, and saw no bubbles what so ever.

The end result is that the clutch feels like it used to (not quite as hard as before, but I did adjust the booster also, so that might be part of it)... There is significant less "sandpaper" noise now, but it's still there.

If I can find the time I'll try again this weekend after fixing the powerbleeder properly, just thought I'd let anyone following this know that the oil change was definately a positive experience (unlike engine oil, you can actually FEEL the difference)

 

The slave shouldn't be so stiff. Consider rebuilding (trivial job) or replacing it (cheap'ish).

 

Not sure it was "stiff" - Is it not possible that I simply reached the end of its travel? (The clutch arm is just visible in the inspection hole, using either a large screwdriver or a set of pliers, I was able to push the rod aprox. to the other end of the hole (I.e. more than 10, less than 20mm).)

 

I finally got to work on the car again the other day, and I think my final attempt at bleeding the hydraulics system may have worked.

There is still some noise, but I'm not sure it is anything other than normal on a car with 360KKm on the clock. I am sure, though, that if it still needs to be bled, it must require some kind of magic that I am not capable of.

If it doesn't get any worse than it is now (barely noticable), I'm not going to worry about it anymore.

Anyway, thanks for everyones help

To celebrate, I washed and waxed it, and it instantly made me feel better about the whole thing

Now to fix a brake light that decided to stop working, and the handbrake that is "a little" loose. It never ends, does it?

 

The noise came back so I finally gave in and handed it over to the pros.

They said "bearing" before I was even out of the car, but it turned out not to be the case. Instead, the transmission shaft (?) had moved forward so that the forward "clamp" could touch some other piece of metal. Loosened a few bolts, moved the shaft and tightned it again, and now the noise appears to be gone (Still need to verify from a cold start which is where the noise was most obvious).

 

A long story but methinks this one has a happy ending (ie fixed and not too expensive).

Colin. 89GT.

 

Errrr,

They didn't use terms like torque tube and flexplate did they?
This sounds like a TBF in the process to me meaning that the clutch problems and the noise were completely unrelated.

If thats the case, just forget I wrote this message and go out and enjoy your car.

Cheers
Bernie

 

They didn't, no...

I thought TBF was an issue with autos only?

 

Ooops,

Could be?
Just the terminology you used had me nervous there for a bit.
Someone will confirm but I think you're right.

Sorry

 

From my limited readings (and no personal experience) the TBF is predominantly an issue with autos, but is possible with a manual. From what I remember though and from the pics of my clutch assembly, I'm not sure how it could happen in a manual. Here's the assembly:
(The spline on the i-shaft you see would have the clamp that you're probably referring to, with the other end clamped on the driveshaft).

I think the TBF is caused when the twist of the drive shaft pulls back on the clamp in an auto, which ends up pushing into the flexplate (when the shaft unwinds) and that applies pressure to the crank against the main bearings. Relieving this pressure helps avoid the TBF. I don't know how this could happen in a 5 speed. I could be way off, and if so, someone please enlighten me.