Ok......What size is that the adjuster on those things in the front?

(sorry for the simple post, cant find it in a search or in the books)

 

8 mm to turn the eccentric and 19 mm for the locknut

 

Earl. First, thanks for the hex info. Secondly, nice info on the site. (in fact I just got back from Lowes checking out those laser levels. Not bad price $45-75 either).

Bob

 

Bob, The laser level that I used for the first few years was a $60 one that I bought at Lowes. It's in the picture mounted on the carpenters level. I used it mounted on the special adapter that goes in the center cap hole. The Harbor freight ~$20 levels are a better deal, since they can also replace the carpenters level and you don't need the special adapter and are cheaper.

 

Earl. You also answered my other question. (believe it or not, which i was gonna test this weekend).........lexan for plates on the upper level of my ramps. I've got a 6' set of stepped ramps I made with a 2' long platform on the top. I had planned to secure some plexi on the top level, put synthetic grease on, then another layer for the alignment.

Guess you've already proved the theory will in-fact work!!

Again.....thanks...........Bob

 

Bob,

When I made my rear plates, I talked to a plastics engineer and he said that plexi would be better than lexan since it would not deform as easily. Apparantly lexan is not as rigid and will let the tire contact patch weight telescope through and the plates would not slide as easy. He also said to use at least 3/8" plexi for the same reason. Many years ago, I tried a heavy steel plate with a sheet metal plate on top and chassis grease, and could not get it to slide at all. I think that it was a combination of the sheet metal being too light and the grease not slippery enough. I tried chassis grease on the 3/8" plexi and could not get it to slide. Superlube works great. Be careful not to allow the car to slide off of the platform.