Charley B

What would you suggest Ryan?

RyanPerrella

Castrol GT LMA (I think LMA)

Ive heard that the ATE requires much more frequent change intervals. In a system like the PSD where heat is not an issue boiling points should be your smallest concern. Its a hydraulic fluid. I would suggest a fluid that will hold up well for 5 years then one thats engineered to be used as a racing or track oriented brake fluid.

WallyP

Since I didn't plan to have 450+ degree temps in the PSD system, I decided to go with the LMA the last time that I flushed it...

perrys4

So Rob,.....you were practicing on my car?

Rob Edwards

Ron-

You were only a guinea pig for the tranny fluid. But Bob was there to hold our hands. Oh, and you'll be a guinea pig for stripping all the trim off your car. But I had actually done a PSD flush on my own car first, as this thread shows. And unlike my A/C follies, my PSD still appears to be functioning......

Tails

Quote: Post 27

When bleeding you only activate the solenoid for several seconds. You don't even apply the 12v for 30 seconds. Why test to see when or if you can burn one out??

I know of no one that has damaged the solenoid using the flush procedure.
__________________
John Veninger

John,

I fully agree with you. I have bled my PSD system 3 time so far using 12 volts direct to the solenoid valve with no problems. I have even made up a long jumper lead with an "on/off" switch in the circuit, so that I can observe the draining from the PSD hydraulic activation piston to ensure that no air is present.

No damage to the electric solenoid valve has yet occasioned and I don't expect that there will ever be using a standard type bleed method.

My post was to try and "put to rest" the 2 second pulsed bleed as a requirement.

By suggesting a test on an old solenoid valve was to prove that it could take a continuous 12 volt during the bleed cycle without buring out or overheating.

Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto

Marine Blue

Ryan brings up a good poing about ATE Blue drawing moisture which is the reason I brought it up.

This leads me to another question, will the system allow moisture to enter or is it sealed enough to avoid issues?

Regardless the Castrol should be inexpensive in comparison and probably a better solution for the PSD.

Tom in Austin

Does a GTS need this fluid change/bleed? Saw reference to changing to LSD, is this discussion just for PSD?

AO

Tom-

The PSD is 100% factory fitted to all 90+ model years including GTS's. Unless yours has been removed, you should flush the fluid. It's a nice Saturday afternoon project.

RyanPerrella

Well its not anymore sealed then the brake hydraulics. The easiest place for moisture to come in would have to be the reservoir cap. So no its not completely sealed, even if it were i imagine things like condensation would draw in moisture which in a system thats suggested to be flushed every 5 ears, but in most cases is flushed in 10 years rust and corrosion can become a huge issue. I just checked the price on the locking valve and its a $1400 part. NOT FUN!

YES

Okv

Yes, the container looks dark at the bottom even after the fluid is changed.
If you (that's me) flushed fluid from both the accumulator and the slave until the fluid looked fresh, then all old is out of the system and replaced with new.

Rob Edwards

Mine is still dark at the bottom post-flush, and I'm not surprised given the murky crap that was in there. My master cylinder reservoir is similarly discolored despite two brake bleeds in the last 2 years. Someday when I have to do the clutch hydraulics song and dance I'll pull the MC reservoir and clean it properly.

Okv

The container is actually clear, what you see is some part living inside it, on the bottom of the reservoir.
I checked this today.
Both the fluid and reservoir walls are clear all the way down.

Rob Edwards

Round 2- No record of if when the PSD fluid was changed on the GTS. Brake fluid ain't supposed to be this color:






Maybe if I wait until 2010 to flush it it'll also be 17 years old....

dr bob

Stupid stuff--

All those crusty metal bits look like a fresh coating of yellow zinc might do them a world of good. Like that transition bracket where the hose and hardline meet up. Since plating costs are 'by the bushel' anyway. Of course that's another slippery slope. Betcha can't plate just one part under there, right?