Collapsed lifter (s)
09-08-2001, 02:15 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Los Angeles/Honolulu
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have no idea but it can't be good. When the PO of my car slipped the belt and damaged 10 valves the work order said, "owner complaining of rough idle".
Kaz
Kaz
09-10-2001, 01:18 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The reason I am asking:
I did the ATF/oil mixture and took the beast for a drive (to clear the oil check valve). The tapping/knocking persisted after my spirited 15 min drive. I drove at highway speeds (past the speed limit a bit).
The car seemed to run fine on the highway. However, I noticed a drop in performance. Once off the highway it began running very poorly. I parked it in a place that was easy to reach by a flatbed. The idle was very rough, yet it would not stall (although it seemed like it would). Starting was not a problem. The belt was replaced 5000 miles back and retentioned 4000 miles ago.
The tapping/knocking at this point was no louder or softer. Could this be a fully collapsed lifter that is keeping the engine from running on all 8 cylinders?
My thinking is: That the lifter was on it's way out and that I finished it off on that last drive.
This is my best case scenario (other than a bad air pump). I'm afraid to think of the worst case scenario.
The car has 65000 miles on it and has been well maintained. However, it is 17 years old and I'm well aware of the things that happen with age. They seem to happen very suddenly; without warning. It's been happening all summer.
I did the ATF/oil mixture and took the beast for a drive (to clear the oil check valve). The tapping/knocking persisted after my spirited 15 min drive. I drove at highway speeds (past the speed limit a bit).
The car seemed to run fine on the highway. However, I noticed a drop in performance. Once off the highway it began running very poorly. I parked it in a place that was easy to reach by a flatbed. The idle was very rough, yet it would not stall (although it seemed like it would). Starting was not a problem. The belt was replaced 5000 miles back and retentioned 4000 miles ago.
The tapping/knocking at this point was no louder or softer. Could this be a fully collapsed lifter that is keeping the engine from running on all 8 cylinders?
My thinking is: That the lifter was on it's way out and that I finished it off on that last drive.
This is my best case scenario (other than a bad air pump). I'm afraid to think of the worst case scenario.
The car has 65000 miles on it and has been well maintained. However, it is 17 years old and I'm well aware of the things that happen with age. They seem to happen very suddenly; without warning. It's been happening all summer.
09-10-2001, 02:42 PM
#4
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Hotlanta - NE of the Perimeter
Posts: 12,269
Received 266 Likes
on
153 Posts
Moss-
Have you checked that the timing marks are in agreement with each other? Check this - might be a good indication (as well as piece of mind).
hth-
Have you checked that the timing marks are in agreement with each other? Check this - might be a good indication (as well as piece of mind).
hth-
09-10-2001, 03:08 PM
#5
Drifting
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Usually bad lifters will result in a lot of valve clatter long before one actually breaks. When they do break they can cause servious problems in you engine. Ex: Not opening the exhaust valve is BAD.
I am enclinded to think that something else is wrong.
I am enclinded to think that something else is wrong.
09-10-2001, 05:44 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Could the timing belt somehow have failed? It's rather new/retensioned. The car starts right up (straight into a rough idle).
It's kind of an up and down idle. Up not surging beyond normal; down almost (but not) cutting out. Kind of back and forth (and rough inbetween).
It's kind of an up and down idle. Up not surging beyond normal; down almost (but not) cutting out. Kind of back and forth (and rough inbetween).
09-10-2001, 07:45 PM
#7
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Sounds like you need to clearly determine the source of the noise. Bad fuel injector(s) can cause a relatively loud clicking noise.
Use a mechanic's stethoscope to determine the noise source, or you can use a wooden dowel, holding one end to your ear and the other end against the cam covers, the heads, the fuel rails, waterpump, etc.
Use a mechanic's stethoscope to determine the noise source, or you can use a wooden dowel, holding one end to your ear and the other end against the cam covers, the heads, the fuel rails, waterpump, etc.
Trending Topics
09-10-2001, 11:30 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Hudson Valley NY
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Easy and safe test to ck for noises of, rod bearing, piston,injector, LIFTER,with the engine idling, disconnect the injector connectors, one at a time.The noise will be less pronounced.If there's no drop in rpm about 100RPM THE CLY, IS DEAD.Do a compression test.
good luck
steve c
good luck
steve c
10-25-2001, 10:06 PM
#9
User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1. Check Compression....with a static gauge, it should be 165 to 175 psig
2. Check all plug connections and spark plugs.
3. Check all injector connectors....one loose, and the car will run terribly.
4. Check timing marks on the cams, passenger's side is usually not perfect, but should be within 1/2 a tooth of the mark.
5. For noisy lifters, try some Rislone....I have heard of the ATF method, but I only use Rislone.....worked wonders in my 1993 S4 Audi (175,000 miles with QUIET lifters)
If you have valve damage, the car will run like crap through the entire engine speed range. A rough idle is not necessarily an indication of a valve problem......this is why you need to check compression.................and check it when the engine is cold. If you lost the timing on the timing belt, the car would probably not be running at all.
2. Check all plug connections and spark plugs.
3. Check all injector connectors....one loose, and the car will run terribly.
4. Check timing marks on the cams, passenger's side is usually not perfect, but should be within 1/2 a tooth of the mark.
5. For noisy lifters, try some Rislone....I have heard of the ATF method, but I only use Rislone.....worked wonders in my 1993 S4 Audi (175,000 miles with QUIET lifters)
If you have valve damage, the car will run like crap through the entire engine speed range. A rough idle is not necessarily an indication of a valve problem......this is why you need to check compression.................and check it when the engine is cold. If you lost the timing on the timing belt, the car would probably not be running at all.
10-29-2001, 09:56 AM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The bolt holding the driverside cam came loose. The timing went south when the distributer acted accordingly. I had to replace that cam at a cost of $2500.00.
She runs perfect now!
She runs perfect now!
