Fuel Pressure
#16
Originally Posted by figgen
I have a quick question
What is the fuel pressure spec for an '85 US spec 928. I appear to be running 1.5-2 bar and was not sure if that was adequate. FPR is new, fuel pump is 2 years old, fuel filter 1/2 year old.
Also wanted to confirm that when the car is NOT started, the key is switched to the "on" position but the starter is NOT engaged if the fuel pump should be running
or not. On most other vehicles the fuel pump will charge the fuel system in this configuration but my 928 does not.
Thanks for the help.
What is the fuel pressure spec for an '85 US spec 928. I appear to be running 1.5-2 bar and was not sure if that was adequate. FPR is new, fuel pump is 2 years old, fuel filter 1/2 year old.
Also wanted to confirm that when the car is NOT started, the key is switched to the "on" position but the starter is NOT engaged if the fuel pump should be running
or not. On most other vehicles the fuel pump will charge the fuel system in this configuration but my 928 does not.
Thanks for the help.
In an LH (and probably L-jet) 928, the fuel pump relay only closes if there is crank signal. If you pump turns on with the key, somebody has done some rewiring.
#17
Instead of starting a new thread about the same thing, I pigged onto this thread.
My 86.5 has been having serious operational issues. I just checked full pressure with engine off by 1) removing the ball and nut from the fuel rail, 2) attaching a fuel gauge to the end of the fuel rail, 3) bridging the fuel pump relay, and 4) grounding the battery neg post to its grounding point. I read 1.9 bar at the gauge. This is low, by way of the spec. Have I missed anything in the process of checking fuel pressure ? Thanks.....
Mike
1986.5 USA 928
My 86.5 has been having serious operational issues. I just checked full pressure with engine off by 1) removing the ball and nut from the fuel rail, 2) attaching a fuel gauge to the end of the fuel rail, 3) bridging the fuel pump relay, and 4) grounding the battery neg post to its grounding point. I read 1.9 bar at the gauge. This is low, by way of the spec. Have I missed anything in the process of checking fuel pressure ? Thanks.....
Mike
1986.5 USA 928
#18
The spec is "approx 2 bar." Your measured value is approximately 2 bar. I'm not sure how much I would worry about that. It all depends on what you are doing and why.
That and I would bet your gauge is not more accurate than +/- 0.1 bar?
That and I would bet your gauge is not more accurate than +/- 0.1 bar?
#19
Dave; that reading was with the engine not running. With the gauge attached directly to the rail (very little air), I read 2.06 bar. Isn't that low for reading with the engine not running?
#20
If the pressure with the engine running is also 2 bar then one or more of the rubber diaphragms in your regulator or pressure dampeners has failed. Pull the "rubber elbow" off of them and re-do your test. If fuel shoots out of the regulator or dampeners then you've confirmed the problem.
Obviously, that is NOT the way you should do that test. Pull the vacuum elbows off immediately after doing your engine-off test and see if you get fuel dripping out of them and/or do a good sniff test.
Note also, that if the above is a problem, your engine off test will be filling your intake's air guide with fuel along with anything else connected to the vacuum system of which that line (or lines) are part of. That is hazardous to say the least.
If you find that with the engine running the pressure is ~1/4 bar lower than that of you static pressure test, then you have an issue with pressure delivery from the pump. Weak pump? Seriously clogged fuel filter? Blocked tank strainer? The next step would be to do a fuel flow test as outline in JPTL's thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ed-advice.html
HTH.
#21
The pump in my '83 Euro runs for about 3 seconds when I twist the key, so if it has sat for a while, I say the 'Shark Driver's Prayer'--"Some sharks do 160, some do 159, If I can make mine run at all I think I'm doing fine." as I twist the key a few times, then it fires right up. My fuel pump runs at 5 BAR, but I have K-Jet. ( No Computer)
#22
Chronic Tool Dropper
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The pump in my '83 Euro runs for about 3 seconds when I twist the key, so if it has sat for a while, I say the 'Shark Driver's Prayer'--"Some sharks do 160, some do 159, If I can make mine run at all I think I'm doing fine." as I twist the key a few times, then it fires right up. My fuel pump runs at 5 BAR, but I have K-Jet. ( No Computer)
For the 928 cars as a group, if your original fuel pump relay includes a 31a pin, pulled low by tach pulses, you'll see the relay close for a couple seconds immediately on key-on. If your car uses a standard 53B relay for the fuel pump, the relay doesn't close until the crank actually moves.
Note that there's a (very bad) habit that some folks acquire, where a 53B relay is modified to serve in early cars when the relatively-expensive original fuel pump relay fails. The real purpose of these RPM-sensing systems is to shut off fuel in the event of an accident or failure where the engine stops turning but the ignition key is still in the 'run' position. Should that accident include damage to a fuel system component, the fuel pump would maintain flow until the tank was empty, or the fire consumed the wiring that supplies it. That wiring and the fire would be in the cabin with the driver and passengers.