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Sorry I miss read what you wrote. Should have known better. Anyway we got there in the end. When I finally get a fuse I will post how it went for future reference for others. I hadn't seen too much reference to the earlier models and the rear fuse.
Bringing this thread back to life as I am having problems with my hatch unlocking remotely.
The motor cycles and i am able to see the cam move. I tried adding zip ties but unfortunately that did not seem to help. I did notice that the motor arm itself seems to be not tight and with a little tension, I could rotate it. Is this supposed to be tight so it is locked or should it be snug but still able to slip? At a loss here as I spent an hour fiddling with this thing!
This is the part in the motor i can rotate by hand while holding it from the round plastic if I apply a little force - not a lot just a little. It feels like it is slipping on the teeth inside. How tight should it be and at what position should it be?
If there is gear damage you should feel some notchyness if you force the arm around. If not, you may just be rorating the motor. Also check - in one end of the link from the motor to the lock there is a plastic/nylon bush. I have seen one of these break up and produce enough slack to prevent the lock releasing. I have posted pics elsewhere of my solution - a brass bush OD 7mm ID 5mm,4mm long; drill off the peened over piece of casting, secure with a 2-56 screw and locking nut.
jp 83 Euro S At 57k
Examine the motor's "snoot" which is the black plastic cylinder with the metal arm. You will need to remove the black plastic cap with the metal arm by removing the counter-sunk philips screw. If that barrel is cracked (difficult to see - use a bright light), the brass bearing can rise (see image) and disengage from the inner gear that rotates the arm. The bearing normally sits low on the snoot. It is a press fit so if the barrel is cracked, there is no pressure to hold it in place. It will be pushed up and out by mechanical pressure from the gears.
928 Hatch Lock Motor Case Failure
Last edited by copperstew; 10-22-2022 at 12:13 AM.
Reason: Added image
Took the motor apart and the snoot is in its correct place. If i tighten the rotating **** tight it would not budge but if I have it snug I can rotate it manually and I feel notchiness in it. There is an imprint of the gear splines on the plastic **** inside… not sure if it makes a difference. Should the screw be bolted super tight?
The spline marks inside the barrel of the housing are what hold the brass bearing in place. If you tighten the screw holding the metal arm too tight, I think it would break the plastic. Mine was tight enough that it did not feel loose. You can plug it into the harness without screwing everything back into the bracket and run the motor to ensure that it spins the metal arm robustly.
Note that the brass bearing is essentially flush with the housing top when assembled. This image shows the bearing with the top cap & arm removed. My housing was cracked (at 12-o'clock and 6-o'clock) which is why it is glued and zip tied tight.
01-09-2021, 09:00 PM
