justin

My clutch pedal starts to engauge about 1 - 2 inch's off the floor, is this normal? Ive had the car for 2.5 years and its always been that way. Is there some sort of adjustment I can make? The clutch isnt very old, I bought the car from my father and he changed the clutch and slave/master cylinders when he owned it.
TIA

85fortheDrive

I'm hearing you to say that as you release the pedal, it takes just 1-2 inches before the gears start to engage, right? If this is the case, then take a look at the movement of the slave cylinder piston when the pedal is depressed. This is easy - just remove the rubber plug from the bottom of the clutch and have a pal push the clutch pedal while you look up into the hole. My slave piston moves the clutch plate about 1 - 1.5 inches, which I consider good. Yours?

That would be my first looksee.

Peace,
Tim

ceedee

the way it sounded to me is. that he means: the clutch engages just before the pedal hits the floor.
and that can't be good.
the rod can be adjusted with i think a 13mm. but don't mess with the butterfly nut by the tension spring

jon928se

It reads to me like you have to push the clutch to within 1-2 inches off the floor to disengage the clutch. I'ld look for air in the system first as the symptoms indicate that some of the clutch pedal movement is just taking up the "slack" created by air in the system.

Search for Bleeding the clutch.

It's also worth while backing off the spring assist adjuster (wing nut) completely while you sort out all the other potential issues as this confuses accurate reporting of the symptoms.

The pushrod between pedal and master cylinder should be adjusted to have (Aaaargh I can't remember ) is it one turn of preload or is it 1mm of gap when clutch pedal is up?

hupp

I believe that the early double disc clutches engaged really quick off the floor by nature - especially when new. Adjusting the clutch pedal rod will not have much impact on this since we're talking about millimeters of adjustment here. If you adjust the rod too far in, the master will not "refill" properly and you will introduce air into the system. Do not deviate from the spec in the WSM -- there must be a gap of approximately .5mm between the end of the pedal rod and the master piston when the pedal is up. This is to ensure that the master piston rests against its stop when the pedal is up so the fluid ports are not blocked.

Does your clutch drag? If not, things are probably fine.

ceedee

it was until it touches the inside of the cylinder cup without any slack.
and then a slight turn. i did it the other day.
the spring sould have just under 4 inches from the adjuster to the pivot point of the clutch arm

justin

Yes the pedal will start to engauge about 1.5 inchs off the floor. Like I said it always been that way, I did a torque tube replacment, clutch check and pilot bearing reolaced as well, about 1 yr ago, and re-adjusted, still the same.
When cold I can push the clutch in to go into gear, after I push the clutch I have to wait a few seconds (sometimes 30 sec.) so everything will quit spinning or it will grind.

hupp

There are two different pedal rod adjustment specs depending on the year. Some require one turn pre-load, and some require .5mm gap. The WSM for my 79 recommended the preload; however, I have replaced the master and have found that it will not work properly unless I have adjusted to have a small gap.