Sab

I have had a rattling noise in my torque tube for some time now. I finally got someone to help me take take it apart and find out what's going on down there.
The "clamp" at the rear of the drive shaft is broken. One of it's three sections is broken off (Probably due to the unqualified mechanic that ruined some other items on my car in the past).

So I guess the tranni has to come out, which may not be that bad since the torque converter is leaking more and more.
My first question:
I discovered that my tranny cooling lines are not stock and that the PO had bent the metal lines, which start heading up to the radiator. One is pinched pretty bad.
Could that lead to problems? Could that maybe have caused my torque converter to be leaking and eventually "balooning"?
Should I attempt to eleiminate the pinched section by straightening it and properly re-bending it? I will definetley redo the cooling lines from there on back, but I hope I don't have to replace the lines going up to the radiator. They look expensive and it looks like a lot of work...

I also have an oil leak aparently coming from the rear main engine shaft seal. Is it a good time to replace that now? How much more work is it to take the whole torque tube out?
Even better what is a good assumption to get all this done (Take out tranny, take out TT, replace engine seal,replace the rear end of the tranny cooling lines, replace torque converter seal)?

Anything else I have to do while I have it all apart?

Since I do not have time to do it all alone, I can see a massive financial setback coming my way again. <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />

Thanks and regards,
Sab.

Drewster67

SAb -

You will probably need to replace the line - do you have a picture - I think I may have one that is good to go.

Regarding the TT. I'm no expert but it sound like you may have more issues than just a broken clamp.

Do you have the manuals?. If you don't, send me a PM or email and I can point you in the right direction.

Good Luck

Thom1

THOM’S TORQUE TUBE ESSENTIALS:

Applies to 1986.5 928S3, USA, Automatic

TO DIAGNOSE:
Just when I thought I had it about right mechanically… that new noise has been diagnosed as torque tube bearings… kinda’ like a grrr… rpm dependant… more obvious noise inside the car, than when listening under the hood. To identify source, use automotive stethoscope, or long screwdriver (press ear closed with screwdriver handle, and hold tip to suspected noise source). Put car on lift. Hear more intense noise along the TT area.

PROCEDURES - REMOVE:
1. Exhaust. System – From back of headers to all the way back
2. Rear Suspension
3. Transmission
4. Torque Tube (TT)

PARTS FOR 1986.5 US AUTO:
1. Rebuilt TT, $495
2. Torque Converter (TC) Bearings (2), $43, 900.052.122.00
3. Transmission Fluid –Mobile-1 (8 quarts), $40
4. Transmission (A/T) Filter Kit, $37, 960.307.901.01
5. A/T Main Pump Gasket, $6, 126.271.128.0
6. A/T Main Pump Sealing – Inner (2), $7, 126.272..095.0
7. A/T Main Pump Seal – Outer, $9, 010.997.474.7
8. A/T Main Pump Sealing – Inner – Large, $4, 016.997.144.8 (Do not twist or kink.)
9. A/T Vacuum Modulator/Actuator, $28, 126.270.927.9
10. Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (2), $6, 928.111.127.02
11. Exhaust to Header Bolts – M8x35 and Nuts - M8 Locking (6 each), or use nuts and lock washers
12. Exhaust Bolts and Nuts
13. CV Boot Kits (4), $60, 928.332.924.02
14. CV Bolts (12), $14, 900.067.123.01 – probably not necessary
15. Brake Cleaner (3)
16. Mineral Spirits
17. Paper Towels
18. Blue Nitrile Gloves
19. Loctite – Medium Strength
20. High Heat Paint for RMB (Rear Muffler Bypass)
21. TOTAL PARTS ACCOUNTED FOR SO FAR, $749
22. Shipping: $167
23. Tax

OPTIONAL PARTS:
Rear Brake Pads
O2 Sensor, $113, (recommended every 60kmiles)
Parking Brake Shoes, $120 (Expensive, and if good enough condition, forget about it)
Accordion shaped boot for shifter cable mount point at transmission
Foam insulation above TT - ~ $130 – Don’t change unless in poor condition
Rear Main Engine Seal – Requires several additional hours work with removal of flex plate

CONCERNS AND PROCEDURES:
1. Pry the crankshaft forward? with a crowbar before final clamping. Watch the X dimension at the front flexplate. Determine that only about 4mm? (see Tony’s site) of splines show before TC pinch collar. For complete procedures, See: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/torque.htm" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/torque.htm</a> or see: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/cranksha.htm" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/cranksha.htm</a>
2. Check the seating of TT bearings. They can be disturbed during shipment.
3. Inspect Flange Rivets on the Torque Converter
4. If you remove your engine or transmission make absolutely sure that you adjust the pinch clamps on the torque tube drive shaft (according to the workshop manuals). Mercedes Benz issued a tech bulletin on torque converter ballooning. They want you to lay down the torque converter on its primary pump flange (hub) and measure from the work surface to the top of the flywheel mounting ears. If it’s more then 121.5mm, the torque converter has ballooned and needs to be replaced. See:http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=14&t=002711
5. CAUTION: The TC seals are tough to install correctly. To change the o-ring requires removal of a plate holding down about 20 little springs. Pressure test the transmission before installation. With a leak, you start the removal process all over again. If the TC is leaking, it may be possible to seal it with Valvoline Max-Life ATF.

Another option is to rebuild the TT See:
<a href="http://home.attbi.com/~gq-beej/928/ttrebuild.htm" target="_blank">http://home.attbi.com/~gq-beej/928/ttrebuild.htm</a>

See links below for TT discussions:
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=14&t=002597" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=14&t=0025 97</a>

<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=14&t=001415&p=" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=14&t=0 01415&p=</a>

<a href="http://www.ejs-has.symbiotix.com/Porsche_928S4/Slideshow4.html" target="_blank">http://www.ejs-has.symbiotix.com/Porsche_928S4/Slideshow4.html</a>

<a href="http://members3.boardhost.com/928s4vr/msg/22314.html" target="_blank">http://members3.boardhost.com/928s4vr/msg/22314.html</a>

CV Boot Replacement
<a href="http://www.928s4.com/project/cv.htm" target="_blank">http://www.928s4.com/project/cv.htm</a>

HTH,
Good Luck,
<img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />

Sab

Drew,
thanks for the offer on the line, I will take a picture tomorrow. I am pretty sure it's only the pinch collar, since I have a receipt from the dealer where the PO had the entire TT replaced about two years ago. (yikes, $2,100.00). I had a real bad mechanic screw up my entire car and I am pretty sure he broke the clamp trying to pry it open to move the TT (Don't go to Coral Gables in Miami to get your car worked on...).
I do have the manuals.

Thom, great info, thanks.

regards,
Sab.

Erik - Denmark

Sab,
Look at this photo -I think that’s the 'easy way' to do it – Remove all from the car in one unit.
You need a lift and a strong garage table with wheels – Loosen everything – Lover the carlift so the transmission are ‘standing’ on the table – Remove the remaining bolts – Lift the carlift – Voila!
PS: You have to support your engine, because when you remove the TT the engine is only supportet of the two engine mounts - When I did it, I first removed the engine, because that was in connection with a total rebuilding of my car
[img] boards.rennlist.com/upload/2cars2lifts2copy.gif [/img]

Erik - Denmark

Sab,
Sorry, it seams that the upload facilities is out of order - If interested I will try again later
Hopefully John and Randy will soon finish there 'changing everything' project