Replacing front 5sp tranny seal??
#1
Replacing front 5sp tranny seal??
Noticed a drop or two of oil on the garage floor the last month or two coming from the tranny area. Well took a good look yesterday and it is apparently coming from the front tranny seal as the oil is coming from where the tranny bolts to the torque tube...pulled rubber plug and yes there is a little oil in the coupler housing.
Switched to full synthetic oil in it about a year ago. Anyone else get any leaks when going
to it? Anyone suggest going back to dino oil?
Looked at it a little longer but couldn't decide whether it would be easier to remove the tranny or the torque tube to get at it. Can the torque tube of a 5sp be removed without removing the trans? Or whould it just be easier to unbolt and lower the trans for replacement.
The seal itself doesn't look too hard to get to once the nose of the trans is exposed.....any special tools required for the seal replacement?
Anyone BTDT? Car is a '90 GT.
Switched to full synthetic oil in it about a year ago. Anyone else get any leaks when going
to it? Anyone suggest going back to dino oil?
Looked at it a little longer but couldn't decide whether it would be easier to remove the tranny or the torque tube to get at it. Can the torque tube of a 5sp be removed without removing the trans? Or whould it just be easier to unbolt and lower the trans for replacement.
The seal itself doesn't look too hard to get to once the nose of the trans is exposed.....any special tools required for the seal replacement?
Anyone BTDT? Car is a '90 GT.
#2
Mine has the same problem. I am pretty sure that you have to remove the trans. It looks like a pretty big task as the crossmember is tied in with the rear suspension parts in several places. I am assuming that an alignment will be needed when it is done
I would also be interested to know if you need any special tools. The other thing that concerned me a little was the shifter linkage. Once you drop the trans down you will need to disconnect it along with the torque tube. One more question would be, how far can you lower the trans while still connected to the tube? I assume you have to lower it in order to disconnect the tube and shifter.
Alright guys, who's done this one, tips, tricks?
I would also be interested to know if you need any special tools. The other thing that concerned me a little was the shifter linkage. Once you drop the trans down you will need to disconnect it along with the torque tube. One more question would be, how far can you lower the trans while still connected to the tube? I assume you have to lower it in order to disconnect the tube and shifter.
Alright guys, who's done this one, tips, tricks?
#3
Have done the auto, transmission can be lowered enough to get at top bolts on torque tube with an extension and a swivel, I lowered mine till the middle bolts were able to be gotten without a swivel. Porsche manual actually recommends this.
You will need a 4 wheel alignment afterwards.
Rear suspension comes out pretty easily just follow the steps in the manual.
cheers
You will need a 4 wheel alignment afterwards.
Rear suspension comes out pretty easily just follow the steps in the manual.
cheers
#4
Zandramus -
From what I can see it doesn't look like I would need to remove any bolts/arms that would affect alignment....but then again I could be wrong.
It's beginning to look like the tranny removal is the way to go....rather then the torque tube.
From what I can see it doesn't look like I would need to remove any bolts/arms that would affect alignment....but then again I could be wrong.
It's beginning to look like the tranny removal is the way to go....rather then the torque tube.
#5
Mike,
I wrote in about this same problem with my '89 S4 5-speed a couple of months ago. John Veninger suggested changing from synthetic to dino gear oil, and it worked...no more drip !
Since it apparently DOES require dropping the trans to replace this cheap front seal, I would certainly try this much easier (and less costly) fix first. I was also told that this front seal leak is a common problem ("They all do that" ).
Good luck!
Scott
I wrote in about this same problem with my '89 S4 5-speed a couple of months ago. John Veninger suggested changing from synthetic to dino gear oil, and it worked...no more drip !
Since it apparently DOES require dropping the trans to replace this cheap front seal, I would certainly try this much easier (and less costly) fix first. I was also told that this front seal leak is a common problem ("They all do that" ).
Good luck!
Scott
#7
Mike,
The whole suspension comes out in one fell swoop, there are eccentrics on the front arms that hook up with the body just behind the rear jack points.
Possibly if you mark them well before removal you may not need an alignment, but there can be a small difference in position when the suspension is bolted back up that I think it would be more safe to have a 4 wheel alignment afterwards.
The whole suspension comes out in one fell swoop, there are eccentrics on the front arms that hook up with the body just behind the rear jack points.
Possibly if you mark them well before removal you may not need an alignment, but there can be a small difference in position when the suspension is bolted back up that I think it would be more safe to have a 4 wheel alignment afterwards.
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#8
Mike,
I'm embarrassed to say I don't recall which oil I used. I was actually skeptical that it would work, and figured it was worth a try as an inexpensive temporary measure only. Fortunately, I haven't had to go any further!
Scott
I'm embarrassed to say I don't recall which oil I used. I was actually skeptical that it would work, and figured it was worth a try as an inexpensive temporary measure only. Fortunately, I haven't had to go any further!
Scott