Mark

Where in MS are you? I know of a number of shark owners in SO. MS, B'ham-Montgomery, AL, and FL Panhandle....

Nicholbry

Big Dave...You are "the man" .....more than I expected.

Quick question, if I decide to remove the nut and I pull the connecting rod cap off (assuming it will just drop down???) I will then have access to the lower bearing shell(#3). How do I go about getting to bearing shell #5 since assuming the rod will be in the way? Also, I've heard about two different types of nuts that are used and torqued differently on a thread here somewhere. Are there indeed two different types of nuts I would need with different torque specs?

Thanks again; exactly what I needed to see.

Nicholbry

Mark:
I am located in the low southwest corner of the state of MS. I am 1 hour north of Baton Rouge, LA, 3 hours from the MS coast, 2.5 hours from Jackson, MS..........in the "woods" as RngTurtle put it. It seems that I am out here by myself w/o any other 928s to run with.

Aatos

After you've removed the lower half of the rod with #3 shell the rod is no longer attached to the crank. You can then push the rod(& piston) up towards the head inside the cylinder.

Note that you must manually rotate the crank every time to get the rod you're working on aligned correctly, so that you have space to push the rod up/down and to remove the bearing shell.

Imo000

Also, make absolutely sure to install the rod caps back in the same orientation as they came off. If you have to, use a scribe or some other method, to mark the ends of the connecting rod and the cap.

Imo000

Nicholas,

You only need someone that did a connecting rod bearing change before, they don't have to be 928 specific as the procedure is all the same. Once the oil pan is off, chaging a con rod bearing on the 928 is the same as on a small block chevy. I'm sure you can find someone to land you a hand.

Mrmerlin

only the the newer style of rod nuts are available they have little notches on the seating surfaces

Nicholbry

Awesome guys ; I am absorbing the image and information to better prepare me should I decide to move ahead .

Aatos: Another question: Upon doing my Thrust Bearing checkup I could not move the flywheel clockwise to turn the crank regardless of how much force I was able to exert upon it. I've seen pictures of some people using a screw driver on the teeth to turn it, etc. but I could not. I'm assuming that when you say "manually rotate the crank" to get the rods to line up so that they can be moved up/down, you are referring to moving the splined flywheel clockwise thus turning the crank??? If this is the case, I may not be able to do the rod bearing replacements since I can't turn the thing over. Oh, and yes I have the pinch collar bolt completely backed out.

Imo000: Great heads up on the rod bearing caps orientation. Regarding a local mechanic who can assist, I have put the word out that I am looking for someone. The only local mechanic that I know personally, I don't trust as he is too ham-fisted from my experience. I trust myself being thorough and careful than I would his quick-fix, shade-tree, demeanor. I consider myself cautiously adventurous. Although I believe I can do it, I am looking for someone as extra insurance.

Mrmerlin: Thanks for the heads-up on the nuts.........wait, that didn't sound out right .

Aatos

Don't rotate it from the flywheel, but at the master bolt. It's inside the crank belt pulley on the front of the engine. 27mm socket I think.

docmirror

Gee, this sounds like a problem.

Maybe you should just get a really giant pry bar and keep twisting until something turns.

Garth S

Pull the spark plugs: it will be far easier to turn the motor by the 27mm crank bolt ... or by the ring gear, for fine adjustments. Also, the pistons will slide upwards more easily if the crank happens to be parked where the valves are closed .... which is the point of rotation where removing the nuts is most attractive ...

Nicholbry

Regarding the torque specs for these nuts, can someone recommend a particular torque wrench based on experience? The ones that I have seen at the local AutoZone & WalMart are enormous and they do not have a specific dial-in for Nm (Newton Meter). I read here somewhere on Rennlist that I would need a specific Nm for the proper torque (can't recall the value off the top of my head). True, I can do a conversion for the Nm from a different measuring standard; however, I find that it will put me in the decimal range where I prefer not to be when dialing in such a critical torque as this.

I guess what I'm thinking is that the ideal torque wrench would have the precise torque spec clearly defined for these nuts and it would ideally need to be the 13" long variety. I don't mind ordering one if some of you seasoned DIYers has a recommendation based on experience. I've read on here that the imperative thing is to be certain the torque matches the factory spec so to that end....

Additionally, where is the 27mm crank bolt located on the front of the engine? Will I need to remove a cover to expose it?

Thanks,

SwayBar

There is no need to specifically use Nm's, thus no need for a torque wrench in Nm's!

Go to page 10 - 07 of the workshop manuals, and you will see listed 4th:

Connecting rod bolts (55) ftlb

See, no need for Nm's!

I have 3 torque wrenches, all from Craftsman. I used my medium-sized one (..max is 80 ftlbs) for the rod nuts, and it has 55 ftlb as one of it's values, which is precisely what you need according to the workshop manuals.

The bolt is down inside the pulley on the end of the crankshaft, and no, there is no cover in it's way.

Heed the good advice above regarding taking out the spark plugs to make rotation of the engine easier! It is well worth your time to do-so.

From underneath the car, I use my large torque wrench (..max is 250 ftlbs) for lots of leverage for the 27mm socket and small-extension; again, it's really easy to rotate the engine with the spark plugs out.

Take your time and I'm sure you'll do it right!

Aatos

It's the number 13 bolt. You need to use a short extension on the socket since the bolt is deep inside the pulley and the space is limited by the plastic radiator fan guard in front of the pulley.

Nicholbry

Terrific image. I have got to get me those WSM. I'm new to 928 ownership and that is on my list to get next. I feel relatively confident to do this check-up (#2 & #6) and possibly replace. The only thing that I can imagine that would be left is determining which bearings go to which rod. When you buy them, are they coded? If so, how do you decipher the code in matching up the bearing to the proper location? Are the bearings all the same? From a simple picture they appear to be.