Shifter illumination kit
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928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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From: Brighton, MI
Shifter illumination kit
I tried to install the shifter illumination kit I got from 928 Specialists tonight, but it wasn't as easy as I thought. I can't seem to figure out how the unit plugs into either the ash tray light or the clock light. It looks like the positive wire needs another splicing part for it to work. The ground wire has a splicer built into it, so there's no problem there.
Anyone else done this before? What am I missing? It seems like it should be so simple!
ALSO: Is there a way to get the shifter plate up and off without breaking it? There's not enough room with the side panel removed to get the metal housing for the lights onto the base of the shifter.
Thanks in advance.
Anyone else done this before? What am I missing? It seems like it should be so simple!
ALSO: Is there a way to get the shifter plate up and off without breaking it? There's not enough room with the side panel removed to get the metal housing for the lights onto the base of the shifter.
Thanks in advance.
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From: Seattle - it's not Hell, but you can see it from here!
can't you get splices at Rat Shack?
i just had the shifter plate off installing a Jager shift boot. what a PITA. i don't want to repeat that anytime soon...
i just had the shifter plate off installing a Jager shift boot. what a PITA. i don't want to repeat that anytime soon...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 881
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From: Denmark
Big Dave,
The shifter plate is a little bit tricky to remove, but when you have ‘got the key that’s easy – Look at the shop manual page 37-101/102
There are two turn able hooks under the plate and the access to them is under the handle and rubber covering – These have to be removed.
I do not know your lightening kit, but it sound something like the original light – I.e. on wire to ground and one to the instrument light – somewhere, not important where
Regards from Erik in Denmark
The shifter plate is a little bit tricky to remove, but when you have ‘got the key that’s easy – Look at the shop manual page 37-101/102
There are two turn able hooks under the plate and the access to them is under the handle and rubber covering – These have to be removed.
I do not know your lightening kit, but it sound something like the original light – I.e. on wire to ground and one to the instrument light – somewhere, not important where
Regards from Erik in Denmark
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From: Land of many Potholes, Michigan
Dave,
I will be looking at adding my illumination kit today. Actually in a few minutes. I'll keep you posted on the connections. I will be giving you a call to see if tomorrow (Sunday) is a good day to meet, and what time is good for you.
John D.
'85 928 Auto, Black <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
I will be looking at adding my illumination kit today. Actually in a few minutes. I'll keep you posted on the connections. I will be giving you a call to see if tomorrow (Sunday) is a good day to meet, and what time is good for you.
John D.
'85 928 Auto, Black <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
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From: Land of many Potholes, Michigan
Dave,
The metal brace should be installed with the offset that is near one of the corners of the flat back, to the front of the car. This way the locking arm can move freely. You Want to ensure as well that the light wires DO NOT lay on one the light bulbs. Don't ask me, Just make sure. I had wrapped a small amount of electrical 33-D on the wire.
John D.
'85 928 Auto, Black
The metal brace should be installed with the offset that is near one of the corners of the flat back, to the front of the car. This way the locking arm can move freely. You Want to ensure as well that the light wires DO NOT lay on one the light bulbs. Don't ask me, Just make sure. I had wrapped a small amount of electrical 33-D on the wire.
John D.
'85 928 Auto, Black
