Dozman

My tach only operates in low gear. The tach drops out as soon as you shift out of low.

I was proceeding to reinstall pod, and center console when I checked lights and such. Tach acted like this prior to removal of pod and center console.

Would appreciate some trouble shooting guidance here.

Dozman
'85 928 Auto, Black

Dozman

Can someone help me identify the connections for the tach, and gear selector from trans to pod?? Also, is there a switch or amp for tach, and or gear indicator lights prior to the pod connection? TIA

I am at a loss on this subject.

John D.
'85 928 Auto, Black <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Erik - Denmark

Dozmann,
What do you mean with tack – Is it the RPM meter –The Speed meter or the Gear Indicator?
Only the gear indicator has connection to the gearbox
The speed meter get impulse from the rear transmission – Normally the failure here is the connections from the backside film to the speed meter – Two or three small rivets (making the connection from the backside to the front side of the film) This have to be fix with soldering on bought sides.
Regards from Erik in Denmark
928 S(2) – 1980/84 – Euro – Aut. - Black/Black

PS: I just got a set of the Service Bulletins, looking them, I found the following in number 8404, maybe that can help you :
“….. Should the indicator light not work for any reason, on cars in the Vin range WPOJBO920FS860061 to WPOJBO927FS860140, the starting interlock switch, part # 000.545.510.6 on the left side of the transmission should be replaced …..”

Dozman

Eric, Thanks for the reply.

My first problem is the rpm gauge (tachometer) only registers in low gear.

My second problem is that my gear indicator lights on the dash do not work.

Not big problems. But, trying to erdicate any problems I can. Trying to nip them electrical gremlins in the butt, before they decide they want to become larger pests.

John D.
'85 928 Auto, Black

<img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Erik - Denmark

John,
See the PS note I just put in-to my info to you,
I expect you were still sleeping, but it seams you are an erly morning man!
The problem must be due bad electrical connection as I explained for the speed meter - can be similar for the RPM meter - Take the whole instrument out and measure all connection carefully with a ohm-meter and clean or soldering bad connections
Before removing the whole instrument, remember to disconnect the battery - not to make any mess!
Regards from Erik in Denmark

Normy

For what it is worth-

When I bought my '85 S2, most of the gauges did not work. In fact, I only had a tach and a speedometer. Yuck.

With some dread, I pulled my pod off for the first time. Greeted by the mass of wires and printed circuit board at the back of the instrument cluster, I frowned and resigned myself to finding another one or driving without gauges. In the mean time, since I had it apart, I took a pencil eraser [a nasty, rough white one] and cleaned all the contacts that I could find.

Voila! Everything worked.

For a while. My voltmeter usually does not work, unless I go on a long drive. After a while, it comes back to life. Bad connection somewhere, I guess, though I haven't been able to cure it. Eventually, I changed the oil pressure gauge with one from a wrecked '86 car [get this- a junkyard in Toledo sold me a complete gauge cluster for $15....] and I now drive around with my pressure needle indicating 3 bar.

Well, the engine seems to run fine...It sure leaks enough, so it must be getting oil!

Normy!

'85 S2 5 speed

Dozman

Normy your right on the oil leakage. I can tell by my cam tower leaks.
But when I look at my oil pressure guage it tells me I will be leaking oil. It works fine.

I had removed the pod, installed all new lamps for everything. New pcb, new pots for lights, new a/c actuators, new vac lines (everything leaking due to PO), cleaned connectors.

Need further help.

John D.
'85 928 Auto, Black <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Normy

Is the oil pressure gauge supposed to read 3 or 5 normally?

Normy~

Dozman

Normy, I am not sure what normal is for others. But, my oil pressure stays at 5 for a few, then settles down around 2.5/3 bars. As my rpms go up, so does the oil pressure. I believe this is normal for range of.

Well, with my foot on the brake, I shifted the trans into reverse, n, d,3,2. Not where the selector locks in place, but somewhat on the cusp of locking. The DARN TACH works. The selector is half off a number normally.

If any one can advise me, should I adjust linkage. Or should I change the switch? Or do both?

Thanks Normy Eric and the 'Two GURU"s' for the help. Looks like I need to adjust the shift linkage. Then, I will follow some advise about the switch at the trans.

I appreciate the help.

John D.
'85 928 Auto, Black

Big Dave

Doz:

For what it's worth, my oil pressure gauge also starts out at 5. Once the car is warm, it moves from 3 to 5 whenever my foot is on the gas. It moves back to 3 gradually when I let up on the pedal.

It's gettin warm 'round these parts. I may be hitting you up for help with the A/C system soon

Steve Cattaneo

The engine speed reference sensor sends a signal to the tech. It’s on the bell housing, not the TDC sensor. You could have a feed back problem, clean your ground wires, especially the ones under the dash and the central board. Check your battery ground; clean the cable and the mounting surface under the wing nut. Adjust the select cable; with the shifter in neutral, disconnect the cable from the transmission lever (pull the ball off). Place the lever in neutral; adjust the cable ball until it fits with no tension on the corresponding pin on the lever. Next, leave the lever in neutral, loosen the switch screws, rotate it until the 4mm hole in the lever is aligned with the 4mm hole in the switch housing. Use the shank of a drill bit as an alignment tool. Select a size that fits snugly in the two holes. Tighten the bolts. That’s it! You are done; the indicator should line up properly.
Good Luck,
Steve C.
The Great White
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