A Good Steering Rack Gone Bad-?
03-02-2003, 08:56 PM
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A Good Steering Rack Gone Bad-?
So, last month I picked up a rebuilt steering rack...
For a while, I've had the pleasure of enjoying a loud, rather agricultural squeak from my front end whenever I go over a speedbump. I've had a small leak from the rack as well, so I assumed that it was bad.
On second thought...I have never actually had an expert look at this new problem, and I'm a rank amateur with the tool set. I took it to a tire place the other day "just to be sure..." before I mounted the new rack and did the motor mounts. Sure enough... they said that the ball joints were the cause of all the noise~
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />
<img border="0" alt="[crying]" title="" src="graemlins/crying.gif" />
Dammit I bought a steering rack for nothing!
-Or did I. I followed the advice of one of the websites and examined the rack boots today. They were intact, and when I peeled them back...from the left [driver's] side came about 100 ml/ 3 ounces of ATF, and from the right side came around 250 ml/8 ounces. When it came out, it came in a pretty steady stream...made a hell of a mess on the driveway too!
SO. I'm sure some leakage is normal from the rack's seals, but this much? Is this rack bad, or should I just keep on using it and only change out the motor mounts? I cannot find anywhere in the manuals where it deals with this, or gives a wear limitation [ie, how much fluid in the boots is acceptable].
Normy!
'85 S2 5 Speed
For a while, I've had the pleasure of enjoying a loud, rather agricultural squeak from my front end whenever I go over a speedbump. I've had a small leak from the rack as well, so I assumed that it was bad.
On second thought...I have never actually had an expert look at this new problem, and I'm a rank amateur with the tool set. I took it to a tire place the other day "just to be sure..." before I mounted the new rack and did the motor mounts. Sure enough... they said that the ball joints were the cause of all the noise~
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />
<img border="0" alt="[crying]" title="" src="graemlins/crying.gif" /> Dammit I bought a steering rack for nothing!
-Or did I. I followed the advice of one of the websites and examined the rack boots today. They were intact, and when I peeled them back...from the left [driver's] side came about 100 ml/ 3 ounces of ATF, and from the right side came around 250 ml/8 ounces. When it came out, it came in a pretty steady stream...made a hell of a mess on the driveway too!
SO. I'm sure some leakage is normal from the rack's seals, but this much? Is this rack bad, or should I just keep on using it and only change out the motor mounts? I cannot find anywhere in the manuals where it deals with this, or gives a wear limitation [ie, how much fluid in the boots is acceptable].
Normy!
'85 S2 5 Speed
03-02-2003, 10:02 PM
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There should be No Leakage coming out of the boots. I replaced my boots and they were bone dry inside. The outside was grimy from engine oil but no leaks from the boots. Some of these rack rebuilders are not top quallity. If your leaking that much fluid the rack will go dry and burn out the seals, which is what probably happened allready, however, you can still drive it that way. Just keep topping off the fluid will each gas fill-up.
03-03-2003, 12:53 AM
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Procedure for testing steering rack for leaks from Porsche Tech Bulletin #9308
a. Remove both rubber bellows from the steering rack housing and push aside.
b. Clean the steering rack thoroughly in the area of the rack shaft and seals.
c. At an engine speed of approximately 1000 rpm, turn the steering to the right stop and hold there under light pressure for approximately 5 seconds (the steering wheel should not be turned so hard as to activate the pressure relief valve). Repeat the procedure with the steering turned to the left stop.
Repeat 8 to 10 times to each side.
If ATF is noticeable on the rack shaft or on the housing in the area of the pinion shaft, replace the rack. If no leaks are found, the oil on the steering rack may be from another source such as the power steering reservoir, hoses, sealing washers, etc.
NOTE:
A light accumulation of oil in the rack boots over an extended period (i.e., between service intervals) should be considered normal and does not warrant replacement of the steering gear. In such cases, the rack boots should be cleaned free of oil, reinstalled and the fluid level topped off. The vehicle should then be returned to the
customer for normal use. In so doing, the rate of oil accumulation in the rack boots can be more efficiently determined and a possible mis-diagnosis avoided.
Grease may be seen on the rack shaft or seals during the test. This is the lubricant used for initial assembly of the rack and must not be mistaken for an oil leak.
d. Whenever a steering rack is replaced, the two rubber bellows must be replaced and secured on the housing.
e. Whenever removing fittings or lines from the steering rack or pump, always replace the sealing washers.
a. Remove both rubber bellows from the steering rack housing and push aside.
b. Clean the steering rack thoroughly in the area of the rack shaft and seals.
c. At an engine speed of approximately 1000 rpm, turn the steering to the right stop and hold there under light pressure for approximately 5 seconds (the steering wheel should not be turned so hard as to activate the pressure relief valve). Repeat the procedure with the steering turned to the left stop.
Repeat 8 to 10 times to each side.
If ATF is noticeable on the rack shaft or on the housing in the area of the pinion shaft, replace the rack. If no leaks are found, the oil on the steering rack may be from another source such as the power steering reservoir, hoses, sealing washers, etc.
NOTE:
A light accumulation of oil in the rack boots over an extended period (i.e., between service intervals) should be considered normal and does not warrant replacement of the steering gear. In such cases, the rack boots should be cleaned free of oil, reinstalled and the fluid level topped off. The vehicle should then be returned to the
customer for normal use. In so doing, the rate of oil accumulation in the rack boots can be more efficiently determined and a possible mis-diagnosis avoided.
Grease may be seen on the rack shaft or seals during the test. This is the lubricant used for initial assembly of the rack and must not be mistaken for an oil leak.
d. Whenever a steering rack is replaced, the two rubber bellows must be replaced and secured on the housing.
e. Whenever removing fittings or lines from the steering rack or pump, always replace the sealing washers.
03-03-2003, 09:42 AM
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Normy-
My boots were dry as well, no fluid in the boots at all. On a positive note though, taking the rack completely out will make doing the motor mounts a little easier - I just let mine hang from the tie rods and it seemed like it was always in the way while trying to navigate under the car to get the crossbrace and oil pan off. Good luck.
RAS
My boots were dry as well, no fluid in the boots at all. On a positive note though, taking the rack completely out will make doing the motor mounts a little easier - I just let mine hang from the tie rods and it seemed like it was always in the way while trying to navigate under the car to get the crossbrace and oil pan off. Good luck.
RAS
03-03-2003, 10:33 AM
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I feel your pain, Normy. I think I'd go ahead and install the new rack even if you think the one in the car is good. Rebuild the take-off unit and sell it.
I'm a big believer in replace it before it fails... "Dave, there is a 92.5% chance the AE-35 will fail in two days". Regardless of how that movie turned out, 20 year old cars love fresh parts. The downside is that it may precipitate failure in downstream parts (ball joints, tie rods, etc) i.e. the forces get transfered to the weakest link. My 84 is due for steering components and when I do it it will be rack, ball joints, tie rods, and maybe some 78 spindles for Big Brakes.
Good luck with your project.
I'm a big believer in replace it before it fails... "Dave, there is a 92.5% chance the AE-35 will fail in two days". Regardless of how that movie turned out, 20 year old cars love fresh parts. The downside is that it may precipitate failure in downstream parts (ball joints, tie rods, etc) i.e. the forces get transfered to the weakest link. My 84 is due for steering components and when I do it it will be rack, ball joints, tie rods, and maybe some 78 spindles for Big Brakes.
Good luck with your project.
