How to reach the tensioner?
05-26-2007, 02:51 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
How to reach the tensioner?
Well I'm plodding along with retensioning the belt. Cambelt cover now off, got cold feet about taking off the fan shroud when I looked at the oil cooler line nuts and anticipated a frustrating time trying to undo them/buying correct wrenches/trying to fit them in with shroud pushed back. I found I could get good access and turn the crank ok from underneath (wife will help call TDC!), but I will remove plugs to make it easier.
There was a funny moment when I pulled out the dipstick tube with almost no effort at all, and had an anxious few minutes reassuring myself I could get it back in the sump!
But looking at the tensioner access to the tightening nut and the locknut is pretty tricky (it's a 928, stupid). There's a maze of belts in front of the tensioner (presumably these aren't there when you install a new TB) so it's going to be hard threading a wrench through to the tensioner. It also looks as if you can only do this from underneath. In fact I can only just see the tensioner nut from one particular angle underneath the car since it's blocked by AC compressor.
I had got an oil can ready and oil for re-filling the tensioner, but that looks hopeless given the lack of access.
So any tips please for getting at the tensioner?
Thanks
There was a funny moment when I pulled out the dipstick tube with almost no effort at all, and had an anxious few minutes reassuring myself I could get it back in the sump!
But looking at the tensioner access to the tightening nut and the locknut is pretty tricky (it's a 928, stupid). There's a maze of belts in front of the tensioner (presumably these aren't there when you install a new TB) so it's going to be hard threading a wrench through to the tensioner. It also looks as if you can only do this from underneath. In fact I can only just see the tensioner nut from one particular angle underneath the car since it's blocked by AC compressor.
I had got an oil can ready and oil for re-filling the tensioner, but that looks hopeless given the lack of access.
So any tips please for getting at the tensioner?
Thanks
05-26-2007, 03:12 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
I usually drop the belly pan to spin the crank from below - can be done single handed if you have a small mirror to see the marker - and the plugs can stay in, for one has good leverage from below.
Additionally, I prefer to drain enough from the rad to remove both the top and fill ( ~1") hoses: aside from easing removal of the dist. cap, there is now better access to the 17mm lock nut ( shorty spanner req'd) and 17mm adjuster.
If you have the air pump, toss it and access is improved greatly.
Were you to just add oil to the tensioner, a hose on a squirt can and a 7mm wrench for the bleeders will take the better part of 10 min.
Additionally, I prefer to drain enough from the rad to remove both the top and fill ( ~1") hoses: aside from easing removal of the dist. cap, there is now better access to the 17mm lock nut ( shorty spanner req'd) and 17mm adjuster.
If you have the air pump, toss it and access is improved greatly.
Were you to just add oil to the tensioner, a hose on a squirt can and a 7mm wrench for the bleeders will take the better part of 10 min.
05-26-2007, 08:27 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
If I remember, when we did mine, Capt. Earl had a wrench that he had basically shortened for easier access. I also remember he ground it down to make the jaw end thinner so I could access the adjusting nut easier without getting interference from the locking nut.
Hope that makes sense, but the short of it is that the shorty wrench was the ticket.
Hope that makes sense, but the short of it is that the shorty wrench was the ticket.