soontobered84

On my '84S Euro, the PO ran over something that knocked the A/C compressor off. Unfortunately, when the A/C actually came off, a hole was ripped in the lower block. I have read the new owner posting. I have read the owner manual. I have purchased 2 sets of Service Manuals. The car has only about 70K miles on it, the engine is out and upside down on the engine stand, and the oil pan is off. Everything looks clean and good except for that doggone hole. Any good suggestions?

Dave H.

still have the chunk that came off? you might have it welded back on. or otherwise have the hold welded shut.

soontobered84

Unfortunately, no I don't have the part that became the hole. I have chatted to several folk that have lower blocks that I might procure but none has not come through yet. Can the blocks be welded(heliarc'ed)(MAG welded) etc. with the Alumsil or is that just in the cylinders? Also, can just the lower block be replaced without disturbing the main bearings?

Randy V

I realize that this advice is not much comfort, but this damage was undoubtedly directly related to the ride height being set too low.

Steve Cattaneo

The block can be aluminum tig welded, if it is not cracked into the cylinder walls.


Steve C
The Great White
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

soontobered84

Okay, it can be Tig welded. Problem doesn't extend to the cylinders. What about just replacing the lower block without disturbing the main bearings et al.? Can that be done? I'll check the ride height afterward. I think the skid plate? is missing.

soontobered84

Do the blocks have to be line bored for the crank?

Dave H.

i'd imagine so.

i'm reminded of one thing though (well, two):

you may just want to pull the crank. one, there may be the risk of the crank/bearings becoming fused to the block during the welding process. two, with the lower block off, why not just R&R your crank and con rod bearings? one of those WYIT things...

John Struthers

Well....
Yeah, it can be welded, but, as you probably figured, no one is going to make huge promises on the weld, or, categorically state there will be no debris blowing into the innards without disassembly.
If you do have to disassemble, assuming someone else is doing the work, there are some major manhour dollars involved here. And there is the possibility of additional hidden costs.
Again, since your already there...new water pump, belt and tensinioning, maybe a tensioner rebuild ...Ka-Ching$$$.
To be honest, the PO didn't just hit a low spot in the road pulling out of Micky D's. You should do a serious, up on the rack inspection for other bent, shifted, and broken things.
However, since the engine is your current concern. If you do the numbers, your best bet would be to either:
1. Buy a used engine. 928 International sells a long block that is compression and leak down checked. The 83'/84' 4.7L motors are going for about $2500.00 plus shipping. Here again you should do the belt/water pump replacement and there is the possibility of seal/gasket leakage as there is no telling how long these motors have been sitting unused.
2. They also sell short blocks -block, crank,rods piston assembly- . You use everything else off of your old engine. Still, might, need seals and gaskets-don't forget water pump and belt replacement- but disassembly costs significantly reduced.
I would be lying if I said that there is no difference between a Euro and USA block - ask the GURU's - but I think that the only difference is the heads including cams, the dual (piggyback) distributor, ECU/Computer (mapping).
The Guru's should be able to tell you if the valve relief cuts are the same on the pistons or not - different head and cam remember -. But if there is no machine work required, and ports/gasket design are the same at $750.00 plus shipping plus labor and a pump/belt job this seems like a better plan. I could be wrong but, I think that all of the 4.7 blocks were tooled and cut the same. Oops, I don't know how they can promise a leak down and compression check on the 'short' blocks but they do offer a 90 day warranty on the long blocks , you will have to check on the short blocks.
HTH, lots of luck.
John S.

Normy

The Euro engines had higher compression- I believe the pistons are different too.

Normy!

'85 S2

John Struthers

Norm,
I was wondering about that ... might be either how the head was milled , or, even the combustion chamber shape/CC as well. I flat don't know to be honest. I can't find a reference to a Euro piston or ring set but they could be out there.
I still think that due to the cam profiledifference - longer duration at a minimum there might be a slightly different relief cut in the piston so you could be right. Either way the Guru's and, or, someone from the Big Three should be able to point Soontobered down the correct path.
How's the 1st Officers proboscus? No pain, improved air flow, and a aerodynamic look I hope.
Wish her well. <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
John S. Current driver of the Mighty Foad', F-150,
Lariat XLT, Waxahachi Super Slug (SS),
Howler, 15" Racing Tires
Silent Sam (SS) exhaust
DP (Dust Pac) A/C
SunFire Red - er...orange? - Specialty Paint
AutoLite County Gap Plugs -Christ, they were an average of .073 - .

soontobered84

Thanks guys for the good suggestions. I, of course, was hoping for a quick fix (Would love to be out driving). A new timing belt and water pump was in the cards while I have the engine out. My initial thoughts were to remove the lower block and to check the main bearings and the crank and if they were okay, bolt everything back up with a minimum of disruption.

ColinB

Hey soontobered.
Quick fix if it's a small hole. I'd go with top quality aluminium epoxy putty. There is some super high-performance stuff on the market. I used Devcon to repair inside an aluminium hot water pump casting and five years later when I next stripped the pump the Devcon was the best part of it.
HTH

soontobered84

I had some suggestions for J-B weld, but since this is a such a fine automobile, I guess I was looking for a more permanent?? solution.

Dave H.

JB Weld's good for small stuff, not sure i'd try to patch a hole with it...