John Struthers

Had a master brake warn prior to SITO.
Checked brake fluid -full and clean-, then bled the brakes. No bubbles or contaminents-like new-. Fellow reenlister provided Brand New sensors at a 50% discount (thanks again). Ordered the new pads and and my Kumho's. Then, and only then, did I eyeball the pads... they were probably worn about 1/4 -1/3? The Kumoh's came in but I wanted to change the pads since they were due on the 20th of June. Pads arrived on time and I combined a front spoiler repair with the brake job- do yourself a favor and get the one man brake bleeder it's a Godsend and cost's a mere $5 or $6. Anyhow, put some 250 grit on a foam block and spun all the rotors, inspected the boots and cleaned everything - I'll bet there was 3-4 lbs of rock, asphalt, and dirt in and on A arms shock perches, ect... Put it back together, test drove it...light still on . Disconnected batt. for trickle charge and hoped the Master Warn Panel would reset. Time was growing short..
After a shower & lunch it was off to the tire store...Master Warn still on one of the tires had disappeared <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" /> back to the house to load the Shark. Remembered to check transmission fluid level. Man the tubing and turkey baster, it works for me... Off to Parts Store for fuses... Master warn went off All was cool till the
I-40 grid-lock. A/C died heat valve opened and Brake Master Warn lit up.
The guy's at Sito recommended multimeter check of the new sensors. Did so when I returned home, they all checked out O.K..
So! Any Ideas?
TIA
John S. & PAttycakes <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
P.S. Don't ever do epoxy repairs while doing a a brake job...brake dust epoxied onto skin and under nails does make one look unkempt and could make picking one's nose unsafe...........

Dennis Wilson

John,

Have you checked the brake switches on the underside of the master cylinder? As I understand the setup, the warning light should stay on until the pedal is pressed and the sensors send a signal. Could be the connectors just need cleaning since your light is intermittant.

Dennis

Paul D

John - It could very well be your brake master cylinder pressure sensors. How old is your brake master cylinder? These pressure sensors failed on my master cylinder. I understand you may be able to replace just the pressure switches (2 of them, 1 for each circuit). I ended up replacing the entire master cylinder (comes with new pressure switches) when my warning light came on. If I remember correctly the rear brake lights do not illuminate if 1 or both of the brake pressure switches are not working so this should be fixed ASAP. Good luck! (Your welcome! glad brake sensors worked out for you)

John Struthers

Dennis,
Thanx, I'll check it out.
Wait aminute...I take that Thank you back, I'll need a Dwarf to get at 'THOSE' connectors!
<img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
How are the flicks coming along? Norm has soiled my vison of Porsche Flicks for awhile, but after my stomache settle a bit ...
John S. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Greg86andahalf

I'm on the wrong thread, sorry

John Struthers

Paul,
Thanks back at you, I was eyeballing the Master last night...removal/installation looks straight forward but TIGHT, I'm hoping it's the connectors though.
John S. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Dennis Wilson

John,

I have the pics scanned and on my Yahoo site. Not sure if I can put them on the Remmlist. You know who may say they aren't entertaining enough since they don't have any nudes in them. Let me know if you want the URL to the site and I'll send you an invite.

Concerning the pressure switches, try cleaning the connections first. I discovered mine were corroded after buying new ones. I have a source for non-OEM which are much cheaper if you are still needing them.

Dennis

John Struthers

Dennis,
Sure. What's the URL?
I'll be doing the connectors in a few minutes,
let y'all know the outcome.
John S.

Dennis Wilson

John,

The following URL will get you there. Hope it will let you in.

<a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emailme2/" target="_blank">http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emailme2/</a>

Once you are there, click on file, then the snow folder.

Dennis

Dennis Wilson

John,

Here is a little easier links to get to the pictures.

<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow1.JPG" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow1.JPG</a>
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow2.JPG" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow2.JPG</a>
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow3.JPG" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow3.JPG</a>
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow4.JPG" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow4.JPG</a>
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow5.JPG" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow5.JPG</a>
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow6.JPG" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow6.JPG</a>
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow7.JPG" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/snow7.JPG</a>


Dennis

Donald

John-
What is the one man bleeder, and where did you get it?
TIA,
Donald

John Struthers

Don,
Called a "One Man Brake Bleeder, built by AMPRO out of Taiwan.
Advance Auto Parts carry them.
So simple you'll build your own.
Basically, a small plastic bottle,the threaded cap has a dual-end, tube runner on top.
You connect the supplied magnet with intregal tapered nipple to the bottle, now you can hang it on the rotor-pretty handy- or on anything steel.
Then you insert another tapered nipple into one of the supplied three or four different length pieces of clear tubing and attach it to the other side of the tube runner. The open end of the tubing is pushed over the bleeder nipple.
I would recommend laying the correct sized box wrench on the bleeder first. NOTE: My front and rear bleeders are of two different sizes??? Go figure...
Miguel, a friend from work, moonlights at Advance.
He suggested the bleeder, and it works, but not like he said it did. Supposedly, the little tapered nipples are one way valves. I could wheeze thru either end, so they aren't one way's.
However, when you crack the bleeder and the fluid starts to flow - no pressure required - it doesn't flow back and there is no air uptake.
I do cheat however, after inspecting the boot I put the pad back on and use a wooden wedge to start the piston back a little, once movement begins out with the wedge and I use my (inate) manly finger grip to to push things back far enough to fit over the rotor. You don't need to keep much pressure on it then snug the bleeder. since there was no air bleedback simple pumping will settle and pump-up the brakes.
After the first one you will be wondering if you forgot to do something, it's that fast.
For $5.00 don't pass this up!
Oh Yeah, the bottle is kind of small when it fills just unscrew it and dump in the appropriate waste container, still no bleed back, though you might - to be safe - close the bleeder.
John S. and Pattycakes <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" /> <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Donald

John-
Thanks. I'll check out the local next chance.
Donald