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Preparing for rear Bilstein/Eibach install (UPDATE - JOB COMPLETE)

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Old 05-18-2007, 03:43 PM
  #31  
Mrmerlin
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did you check the lower bolts/metal rod for true? I hope so
Old 05-18-2007, 03:58 PM
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Shane
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
did you check the lower bolts/metal rod for true? I hope so

Why would the bolts be lying, Stan?
Old 05-18-2007, 07:56 PM
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JWise
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did you check the lower bolts/metal rod for true? I hope so
Mrmerlin- To be honest, no I did not. However, I made note of your earlier suggestion and did look at them closely when they were pushed back. To my naked eye, both appeared perfectly straight. With everything lined up, and with plenty of antiseize, they slid back in rather easily. I suspect any significant bend would have prevented this.

What are the ramifications if they are slightly bent? I suppose it wouldn't be too hard or time consuming for me to simply pull the pins again and check. Please advise. Thanks!

P.S. I did take your advice and use a razor blade to radially cut the rubber washer and transfer it to the new assembly. Worked like a charm.
Old 05-19-2007, 01:05 AM
  #34  
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sometimes the lower pins get bent either from hitting a big pothole or from jacking the suspension up the wrong way or hitting a curb on the side of the wheel, I have replaced 5 pins already in the shop on various cars, so this is a very real possibility that a pin can be bent, if it is bent, a used one can be found, the bent pin will change the alignment of your wheels/hub assemblies, it should not be straightened, of course you might try this in a press, but it would be better to get the straight pin.. You can remove the pins and check them just use the jack under the wheel hub to hold things together slide it out to the rear of the car, clean it off and roll it on a piece of glass if it rolls true then your golden. if it doesnt then you can reinstall it till you get a new one/used one, we buy used suspension parts just so we will have a supply of good straight pins, and yes sometimes even used parts have bent pins. Good luck
Old 05-19-2007, 10:37 AM
  #35  
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OK, thanks Stan. I'll pull 'em again and check them out. Shouldn't take very long at all.
Old 08-15-2010, 07:38 AM
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Ragnar Joensen
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I am installing Eibachs on my red Boge dampers just now, and I have one question, that I ahve not found the answer for in various threads:

Should the progressive portion of the spring be at the top or at the bottom ?

And what is the reason ?


Ragnar
Old 08-15-2010, 08:51 AM
  #37  
Hilton
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Originally Posted by Ragnar Joensen
I am installing Eibachs on my red Boge dampers just now, and I have one question, that I ahve not found the answer for in various threads:

Should the progressive portion of the spring be at the top or at the bottom ?

And what is the reason ?


Ragnar
I had this question and asked a local 928'er who's an engineer.

His answer was that it makes no difference to the compression of the spring, but, if you put the end with the tightly-wound coils at the top, then it reduces the unsprung weight slightly.

This is because the top end is fixed to the body and hence doesn't move with wheel travel, so putting the heavier end of the spring there gives a lower unsprung weight than putting it at the wheel end
Old 08-15-2010, 09:04 AM
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Ragnar Joensen
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That is exactly what I figured out myslf, but it is assuring to hear the same reasoning from somebody else.

Thank You !


Ragnar



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